Eagle

.DWG is AutoCAD's file format. I'd like a copy of the file(s). I have AutoCAD, and I will be needing a hitch. Check your PMs for e-mail address. Thanks

Are you asking me or H8PVMT? I don't have to make sure. I have replaced enough exhaust systems on 4 liter XJs and MJs that I am sure. If you doubt me, go measure for yourself. Just be sure you're measuring OEM or OEM replacement parts, not custom parts. Ask me about 2.5 liter XJs and MJ and I won't be so sure, because from the several I have had go through here the size of at least the tail pipe changed from year to year. If they changed the tail pipe, I don't know if they changed the exhaust pipe and catalytic converter with it, or if those stayed constant.

If this is for the MJ, the downpipe is 2-1/2" to the cat flange. The cat is 2-1/2" inlet and outlet, and the connector necks down to 2-1/4" between the cat and the muffler. The muffler is 2-1/4" inlet and outlet.

New senders are not needed if he already has gauges.

I agree with most of what was in the above post. Except ... Lifting an MJ or XJ with the stock track bar actually pulls the axle over to the driver's side, not to the passenger side. Not that it really matters -- either way, the wheels will be off-center to the long axis of the vehicle and it will be impossible to properly align the tires.

A Comanche is a Jeep. The Jeep 4.0L engine and the AW4 automatic transmission are about the most bullet-proof drive train on the planet. Why are you considering anything else?

More important, go with the 3.4 and get an engine that won't self-destruct. The 2.8 isn't even a good boat anchor.

And that's because with idiot lights, the oil pressure and coolant temperature sensors are NOT sensors -- they are simple, temperature actuated ON/OFF switches. The sensors for the gauges are variable rate resistors. All you have to do is go to an Auto Zone, Pep Boys, Advance Auto, or NAPA store and buy the sensors for your year and engine with gauges, then replace your existing switches with the new ones. As already noted, the coolant temperature sender mounts on top of the head, at the left (driver's side) rear corner. The oil pressure sensor mounts to the block adapter where the oil filter screws on.

Not so fast. My 1999 WJ Laredo with Up Country suspension came with 245/70R16s. I've never heard of a WJ having 225/75-16s.

I'm pretty sure Pete has posted photos on this upgrade more than once.

I've run both 235/75R15s and 30x9.50R15s. They are essentially the same diameter, but the 30s are just a slight bit wider. The 235s gave me no problems. The 30s rubbed on the lower control arms when the steering was cranked over to full lock. The rub wasn't bad ... and I've also run 31x10.50s on stock rims, with more rub than the 30s. But for zero rubbing, 235/75-15 is the largest size you acn run rub-free (unless you change out the lower control arms for WJ arms).

I can just imagine a picky motor vehicle inspector or police officer getting all unglued if the VIN on a door sticker doesn't match the VIN under the hood and in the windshield. You'd think these people never heard of "junkyards."

IMHO, the VIN and emissions stickers are of no practical use. I bought my orginal Cherokee new in 1988 and I don't think I have ever looked at either the VIN sticker on the door (in fact, I didn't know there is one until I saw this post) or the emissions sticker. The value of your reproductions isn't to have the information so much as to have an accurate replacement for missing, damaged, or defaced OEM stickers. So my view is that they should replicate the originals as exactly as you can do it. If that's the original layout -- don't change anything (other than the data that changes according to model). Great work, BTW.

Someone posted awhile back that a handle for an early S-10 (don't remember which years) is the exact same handle. I've never verified that.

Really? Does it say why? We sure turned a bunch of them. It says something about a special contour, but it doesn't say what that contour is. The consensus is that it's slightly dished. I only know of a few people from NAXJA who have had the flywheel turned, and they all had problems.

The FSM for my '88 4.0L Cherokee specifically says not to turn the flywheel.

Maybe it turns on the anti-lock feature? You are aware that the Rodeo uses 6-bolt hubs, right?

BTW, I believe 1990 was the year they changed the grille and header, so if your grille is good and all you need is the header, 1984 thru 1989 XJ will be the years that fit. 1990 and newer you would need the header plus a new grille and both headlight bezels.

Received Carfax. Thanks to 1987Comanche

If anyone has a Carfax account (or access to someone who has one), I would very much appreciate getting a report on this 2001 Cherokee I just bought. I screwed up, and allowed myself to be blinded by the fact that it was a Cherokee Sport with under 100,000 miles, and the body looked pretty decent. So I bought it without checking it out as closely as I should have. Now that I have it ... I can't drive it. No brakes, and the cause is that just about every hard line under the floor is rusted out. There's rust on the bottoms of the doors on the driver's side, and even the driver's seat frame is rusty. I'm beginning to think it may have been in a flood. Too late to undo the deal, I did buy it "as is." But I'd like to try to get a handle on what I've got and what I can expect for other problems. It supposedly went through a Jeep dealer at the east end of the state, so it may have found its way into Carfax -- I hope. VIN is 1J4FF48S61L553249 If you can run the report and save it or scan it as a .PDF, hit me with a PM and I'll provide my e-mail address. Many thanks

Here's the official FSM procedure to follow when bleeding the brakes on an MJ that still has the two lines to the rear:

No, that sliding piece does NOT distribute which way the fluid goes. Look at that photo, at the "nose" of the metering block. The front (left) top is the fluid inlet for the rear brake circuit. Notice that it connects directly to the nose outlet, which is the line that goes to the rear. What controls how much brake force actually gets to the rear wheels is the rear height-sensing proportioning valve. And because the MJ has that rear proportioning valve, there is also a second, bypass line from the front to the rear. There is a very specific bleeding procedure that must be followed when doing the MJ brakes in order to get that bypass line bled. Since you didn't even know where your proportioning valve is, I suspect you were not aware that this procedure is necessary. Detailed instructions have been posted here a couple of times in the past.

The slider on the top? That's what turns on the brake system warning light in the event of a loss of brake pressure. It is reset to the center position after bleeding the brakes by stomping on the brake peddle -- HARD! It cannot cause a complete loss of rear brakes. Here's a photo of it, cut in half. The rear brakes are fed through the horizontal port on the left of the photo (the end that faces the front as installed in the truck).

Before you fire up the welder, take however much time you need to figure out just how that strike works. It is NOT fixed in place. There's a weld nut on a backer plate of some sort, and the strike itself is basically a threaded stud that screws into the weld nut. It HAS to be that way, so the strike can be adjusted. I would suggest that you remove the trim panels on BOTH sides, so you can inspect the good side to see how it all goes together.

And now that the heat of summer is approaching, it's time for me to install one of those conversion kits such as I showed the image of. I have never worked on an automotive a/c. I know that with the R134a systems the low pressure side gets a small port connector and the high pressure side gets the large port connector. For an '88 XJ or MJ with the factory system, which is the high side and which is the low side?