Eagle

You can buy it, but the line is not what leaks onto the fuse panel. What leaks is the master cylinder itself. The seal at the back end fails, fluid starts "weeping" past it, and follows the pushrod through the firewall where it drips down onto the fuse panel connectors.

Tire balance. Tire balance would cause a clunking noise while i push and pull on the tire? :huh???: No, tire balance would cause death wobble. A clunk is a cause for concern, but probably is not the cause of death wobble. I know others are going to disagree with me, but the fact is I have driven, and seen others driving, XJs and MJs with severely worn and loose components and NO death wobble, yet the two times I have experienced death wobble were in vehicles with front suspension components mostly new and all tight. One of them was a brand new 1999 Grand Cherokee with only about 10,000 highway miles on it.

Tire balance. What if the alignment is what's causing it? Insufficient caster angle, for one thing, is a major player in causing death wobble.

Bah ... reading comprehension is important. You wrote "C100" and I read "C101," probably because the C101 connector is such a common topic of discussion. My apologies for the inadvertent hijack.

So rather than just replace a $10 seal you're going to drop several HUNDRED dollars on an SYE and have to modify that expensive new driveshaft you just bought? Doesn't sound like a great plan to me. I'd buy a new seal, spent 15 minutes installing it, and call it good.

The problem with this is that the '88 will have a C101 connector, but the '90 won't. It went away away in the middle of the 1989 production year.

Jack stands. Can't go anywhere if the wheels are off the ground.

Gibson. IMHO the ONLY exhaust that sounds even halfway decent on an in-line six.

You don't have to remove the tranny to check -- or to insert the bolts if you left them out. Just pop off the inspection cover at the bottom. IIRC, you can get a wrench in there to tighten up the bolts if necessary. I'm pretty sure I didn't have to pull the tranny back to fix my boo-boo.

This is not your Jeep? Don't even bother. Tell whoever owns it to either fix it himself or take it to a shop. If one freeze plug is bad, most likely the others are ready to fail. They ALL need to be replaced, and the best way to do that (as well as to access the one that's leaking) is to pull the engine. Candidly, that's more work than a high-mileage 2.8L is worth. By the way, you do realize that most people work on Wednesdays, don't you? IMHO it's kind of rude to post looking for help at 1:45 p.m. on a workday afternoon and bump your own post two hours later, when people are working and probably not just waiting at their computers to answer questions on the Comanche Club Forum.

It ran a lot better when the engine was connected to the transmission ...

I hope you didn't do what I once did. I replaced a flex plate on an '88 XJ. Got everything buttoned up, fired up the engine and thought "WOW! This old beast feels a lot peppier than mine!" Put in gear, and nothing happened. I have a friend who had come over to help me finish putting it all back together. So I asked him if he had bolted the torque converter to the flex plate. "No, I thought you did that." Oops. :oops:

Converting to a 4.0L in an '86 can be done, but it's a LOT of work. IMHO swapping in a 3.4L V6 is the best way to go. The basic block is the same, so it becomes essentially a bolt-in conversion and you get a much better engine with a bit more power than the 2.8L, and a lot more reliability.

They are the same year-for-year, but there are differences between/among different years, and you cannot mix-and-match without running into problems.

Not quite. Locking the front axle disconnect means that the front driveshaft will always rotate when the front wheels are turning. This means that some of the parts inside the transfer case will also be moving ... BUT, they won't be connected to the rear section of the transfer case or to the engine, so they just sit there and spin, they don't do any work. When the transfer case is shifted into 4WD, then the front and rear are connected together and power is delivered to both the front and rear driveshafts.

Do you know what freeze plugs are? The question was asked because there is a freeze plug at the back of the block, inside the bellhousing. To replace it, at the lest you have to remove the transmission and flexplate, and if that doesn't leave enough room to work you may have to pull the engine out of the vehicle to access the freze plug. If the leak is outside of the bellhousing, it may be a blown head gasket. From your description, though, it sounds more like a freeze plug.

If you have a Comanche, you do not have a full-time option unless a previous owner has changed the transfer case. DO NOT drive it in 4WD on dry pavement.

It's not hard, and when changing ratios it's just part of the install process anyway so calling it "re"shimming isn't correct. When you regear, you replace both the pinion gear and the ring gear. On the Dana 30, the break is when going from 3.54 to 3.73 so you're not going to need a new carrier. But the new pinion gear has to be installed at the correct depth, so that's one set of shims. And you need (ideally) a special jig to set the pinion depth, although there should be a depth code stamped into the nose of the gear and you can guessimate the required shim thickness based on that. Once the pinion is at the correct depth you set the backlash, which is done by adding, removing, and shifting shims from one side of the carrier to the other until you get a proper wear pattern and backlash within spec. Unless you know what you're doing inside the pumpkin, it's really a lot easier to swap the entire axle.

What axle do you have? If it's a Dana 35, the carrier break is 3.31 and lower, and 3.55 and higher (numerically) -- meaning you will need a new carrier. If you have a Dana 44 you're okay, because the break is 3.73 and lower, and 3.92 and higher.

FWIW, I've had two NEW (not rebuilt) alternators from Auto Zone (their Durolast Gold line) that were DOA out of the box. And people to whom I have mentioned that typically respond with, 'Yeah ... that's normal."

No, he said he checked the fused [sic] link. That's only one of the wires in the charging circuit. The direct answer to the original question, though, is that the alternator can be replaced with a delco one-wire. But, with an undiagnosed problem lurking somewhere, I'm not convinced that doing so is a good idea. On the other hand, it could be brilliant. :???:

No. On the GM alternators, the voltage regulator is built into the alternator. The ECU has nothing to do with it. If the battery tests good and the alternator tests good, there's obviously a wiring problem in the vehicle.

Makes sense. I was going to suggest that, but I figured it "couldn't possibly happen." So much for THAT theory.

That's curb weight, not gross vehicle weight. Gross vehicle weight is curb weight plus payload plus occupants.

Yeah, the cylinder walls are dry? I guess you're not doing rings, right? This is just a replacement of the bearings with the engine in the vehicle? I would go after the cylinder walls. Fill up a squirt can with some 20W50 and maybe a bit of STP in it for good measure, spin it with the mains loose so you can soak the walls with the pistons all the way up, then tighten the main bearing caps and try again. As you start to draw the main bearing caps up, before they're really tight-tight, tap each cap with a plastic or brass hammer gently to be sure it's properly seated and square to the block.