Eagle

You can measure your current ride height, and if it DOESN'T match the factory spec you know your springs are sagged. Top of axle tube to bottom of frame rail. 9.2" +/- 1/2" for 4WD, 8.2" +/- 1/2" for 2WD. Eagle you're correct, and I even posted that prior :( late night and tired i guess. it is much more notcible through when you pull them off and take the eye eye center measurement. I remember what my thought process was though last night Because he's SOA and just kept thinking it wouldn't work, now this morning after sleeping : the measurement procedure of top of tube to bottom of frame rail must be modified to be used with SOA, you must subtract the diameter of the axle tube and height of the original spring perch, the height of the new spring perch and I'm thinking even the thickness of your spring pack from your measurement. to get it back within a factory comparable number I suppose by using the arithmetic you just posted in the other thread about Metric Ton springs it would be easy enough to convert the factory's top-of-axle-tube number to a top-of-main-leaf number, which could then be used as a standard for both SUA and SOA evaluations. So we would take the 9.2" to the top of the axle tube, add the tube diameter plus the offset from the bottom of the tube to the perch mounting surface ... and that's the distance from a stock spring to the frame rail. That number can be used for SUA and SOA, as long as the spring mounting points haven't been altered.

You can measure your current ride height, and if it DOESN'T match the factory spec you know your springs are sagged. Top of axle tube to bottom of frame rail. 9.2" +/- 1/2" for 4WD, 8.2" +/- 1/2" for 2WD.

No, they don't. Metric Ton springs should give the same ride height as stock springs, just with more load capacity. If the springs you have generate 3 inches of lift, they are not Metric Ton springs (regardless of what their maker or vendor calls them). Have you installed either set yet? Do you know they produce 3 inches of lift, or are you assuming that because of something you read or heard?

So what do you need? "Everything" isn't very specific. Does that include the main bearing and rod bearing cap bolts, for example? Does it include head bolts? I'm not trying to be difficult, just pointing out that you're asking a VERY open-ended question that could take someone a week to research and compile.

You don't. R12 can be serviced only by licensed technicians. Anyone who sells (or gives) you R12 is breaking Federal (and probably state) law.

For? Head bolts? Flywheel bolts? Bell housing bolts? Motor mount bolts? ??? ?

The '87 - '90 4.0L valve cover is cast aluminum. Just get one from a junk ard and spend a couple of evenings polishing it.

I don't collect -- I "accumulate." Doesn't much matter what -- it all follows me home.

Good choice, IMHO

It sounds like your MJ is screwed up. The two lines run from the front to the height-sensing proportioning valve, which is mounted to the frame above the rear axle. There is only one rubber hose running from the proportioning valve to the rear axle, and that's what should be connected to the new Ford axle.

The above are correct, but what they didn't mention is that the clip for that upper stud is not in the door if you don't have the hockey stick armrests. It probably isn't available from the dealer now, so you'll need to go back to the junkyard, remove the door trim panels, and pop the stud retainers out of the doors.

Worn parts do NOT cause death wobble. As I have stated before, I have experienced true death wobble twice. Once was in the '88 MJ -- AFTER I had removed the lift and replaced just about every replaceable part in the front suspension. The issue was tire balance, nothing more. Rotated the tires and the problem never came back. The other time was in my then-new 1999 Grand Cherokee WJ, when it was maybe six months old and had well under 10,000 miles on it. All stock, had never been off-road. Death wobble kicked in at between 50 and 55 MPH when, going down a long downgrade, I touched the brakes lightly to maintain the speed limit. The rotors were warped, and that set it off. But -- the rotors were warped before the incident (I was 250 miles from home at the time) and the rotors stayed warped for weeks afterward. But that was the only time death wobble occurred.

A 6" lift and you had an alignment done? What specs was it aligned to? Did you get a printout of the final settings? One of the keys to avoiding death wobble is to have sufficient caster angle, and with a 6" lift if you have stock control arms, or even stock uppers and adjustable lowers, it's unlikely the shop could adjust the caster to within spec -- and with a lift and big tires, "within spec" may not be enough, you probably really need to be at the maximum.

The issue is that the strike location moved vertically with the new body style XJs, which means to use those doors on an MJ you have to modify the strike in the door post.

A 265/75-15 works out to 31.6" diameter by 10.4" width. Most 31s are around 30.5" in diameter, so these are approximately equivalent to a 32x10.50. On stock rims, the inner sidewall is very close to the sheet metal and to the springs. I ran 31x10.50s on my '88 for a couple of years with factory rims. I didn't have any problems on the street, but any time I took it trail riding I came home with rubber marks on the inner fenders at the rear wheels. Any spacer will alleviate this, you don't really need more than about 1/4" to 3/8" to keep a 10.50 from rubbing in the rear.

I've managed to collect a set of five from various sources, and in various states of deterioration. I think they'll clean up okay, but ... Does anyone have a couple of the center caps for the turbine wheels?

Also, all XJs with Selec-Trac (the full-time 4WD system) did not have a CAD.

Looking at my '88 XJ 4-door, it appears from the outside that they'll swap from side to side, too. (Does anyone know if the left and right sides are different internally?)

... I'm looking for suggestions on how best to clean up and somewhat polish the back sides of a set of factory alloy rims. I've collected from various sources a set of five of the OEM "Turbine" rims that were factory options in the 1980s. For the fronts, I plan to use aircraft stripper to remove what's left of the clear coat, polish up the faces of the spokes and the outer rim, then spray with new clear coat. The problem is the backs. One must have been used as a spare only, because it's perfectly clean, polished, shiny, and doesn't have a spot of grease or dirt on it. The others are ... rough. Dirty, greasy, and showing signs of oxidation. I tried cleaning one with carb cleaner and a toothbrush. It took off the grease fairly well, but it didn't do anything for the discoloration and pitting. Would a flap sander be too aggressive? (Keeping in mind that the only place I could find one was Lowe's, and it's either a medium or coarse grit -- no fine or super fine available.) A steel wire brush would just chew up the aluminum, so that's not an option. Has anybody ever tried a brass or bronze brush on aluminum alloy? What else is out there that'll bring the wheels back without destroying them?

Y'all might want to bookmark this discussion: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f15/all- ... s-1151525/ I'm running a set of Grizzlies on the '88 XJ, and at one time they were the factory alloy on some XJs. They'll work fine on an MJ.

viewtopic.php?f=9&t=11693 That's the one. Thanks.

That's what sidelined my '88 MJ. I have about decided it has to be the coil and/or the ignition module ... so I'm a bit disappointed to see that those didn't help you.

There's a measurement in the MJ FSM fron the top of the axle tube to the frame rail that serves as the "standard" measurement, but I don't remember what it is. For a rough measurement, if you have the factory flares, from the center of the wheel/hub/cap/axle straight up to the bottom lip of the flare should be approximately 20-1/2 inches.

I picked up a 2.5L with auto tranny (but no transfer case) in my MJ and didn't even know it was there. Also hauled a 4.0L with 5-speed & transfer case with no problems. You're looking at maybe half the rated capacity of your MJ.

Bleeder screws? Dana 44? :huh???: