Eagle

??? Huh? That distribution block just beneath the master cylinder is NOT a proportioning valve in the Comanche, and there is nothing inside it that could "freeze." It's function is completely different from the XJ proportioning valve, which IS built into that metering block.

The adjustment clevis (part #5 in the diagram provided above) has a round hole in it, but the frame pocket has a horizontally elongated hole in it as well. The rear control arm bolt goes through both the frame pocket walls and the clevis. The real strength comes from the frame pocket, which is much heavier steel than the arms of the clevis. That just provides the adjustment, then the bolt is socked down, clamping the walls of the frame pocket against the steel sleeve in the bushing. It's really the frame pocket that holds the control arm in the vehicle.

They should test the amperage draw on the starter and check that against the specs for the vehicle. Even if the motor spins, excessive current draw means it's no good.

Lee, meet Jon. Jon, say "Hello" to Lee. viewtopic.php?f=2&t=36841

I remember that the rear springs are 14mm -- if 9/16" is close for the front, then those are probably also 14mm. 9/16 = .5625 14mm = .5512

It could be battery, it could be wiring, and it could be starter. Usually starters simply quit, but they can deteriorate such that heat increases internal resistance, and that can result in slow turing and higher than normal current draw. The starter is only held in by two bolts and two wire connections. Pull it Friday night (if you don't work on Saturday), and Saturday morning take it to an Auto Zone or Advance Auto and have it bench tested.

Why have it custom bent? That's the stock exit location -- just buy an OEM replacement from Auto Zone.

Yes, but there are no inner seals in D44s except for the real old models like the early CJs. The axle bearings are lubed by the gear oil. Since your D35 has the inner and outer seals, here's a good tip you might can do before assembly to keep the bearings lubed easier. http://www.jeeptech.com/axle/zerk.html That's an interesting link, and I suppose some grease is always better than no grease. However, just squirting some grease into the general vicinity of a bearing is NOT "packing" the bearing. There is no substitute for actually working the grease into the spaces between the rollers.

Look on the HELP! rack at the parts store. There's a socket for some Ford vehicles that's a direct replacement for the Jeep socket. (Might be made of metal instead of plastic, but it's a perfect fit.)

Yep. If I was a betting man, I wouldn't bet against you on that. Pack 'em.

Body lines changed in 1997 -- Correct. '91 - '96 is direct replacement for '92 -- Also Correct. The '84 - '90 (or maybe '89) header and grille look the same from a few feet away, but they ARE different. On the early ones, the horizontal trim piece across the top of the grille and headlight bezels is a separate piece (three separate pieces, if you include the headlight bezels). Those pieces attach to the header panel. Chrysler changed the design to make those integral to the grille and headlight doors, and the Chrysler design thus requires a different header panel. If you ONLY need the header panel but your grille and headlight bezels are intact -- get the 91 - 96 header. If you also need a grille and headlight bezels, you can go either way, but you have to get all the pieces from the same range of years.

The upper end doesn't "connect" to anything. It's just a vent, and the white plastic thingie is a sort of check valve. The factory zip tied tthem to other wires and hoses in the vicinity of the brake booster, but the exact location isn't critical. The important thing was to keep it high so it would be above water if fording streams off-road.

2.5L takes 5 quarts. 4.0L takes six.

Is "Sparkles" the '96 Cherokee? I have the 31s on an '88. Somewhere after Chrysler took over they shifted the location of the axle centering hole in the leaf springs by 1/4" -- don't recall if it was forward or back. That could make a world of difference.

Disagree all you like. I have 31x10.50s on my '88 Cherokee right now, parked outside. Stock height -- no lift. If it didn't work, I wouldn't have written that it works.

Lift doesn't solve nearly as many problems as people seem to think. It is possible to run 31x10.50s on factory rims on a Cherokee or a Comanche with NO lift. In the front, they will rub slightly where the rear inside shoulder of the tire hits the lower control arm with the steering cranked all the way to full lock. With the wheels pointed straight, on a Cherokee the tires will tuck nicely up into the fender wells when the suspension gets compressed. On the MJ, the front condition is exactly like the Cherokee -- very minor interference with the LCAs at full steering lock, no other issues. In the rear, a 10-1/2" wide time on the factory rims runs very close to the springs and the inner fender liner. You can run them and wheel them, but when the rear axle gets crossed up the tops of the tires rub the inner fender liner. I used to find black, shiny spots inside my wheel wells after every wheeling trip. So lift 3 inches. The lift does NOTHING to move the front wheels away from the LCAs, so it doesn't solve that problem. In the rear, the lift does NOTHING to move the wheels out from the inner fender liners, so it doesn't solve that problem, either. Both problems can be addressed by using either wheel spacers or aftermarket rims with less backspacing ... but then you've moved the tires outboard and they hit the flares when the suspension compresses. So then you either extend the bump stops and massively reduce your suspension travel ... or you remove the flares and chop the sheet metal. IMHO, people are much too anxious to throw on big tires without first thinking through the consequences of doing so. Unless you want to run big tires just because you think they look cool and you just HAVE to have them, consider that the optimum setup is the LEAST amount of lift and the SMALLEST tires that will get you where you want to go.

The map pockets were part of the Pioneer and higher trim packages. I don't think they were offered as a separate option. Color matched the interior -- basically Gray, Blue, Red (Maroon), Tan or Black.

Thanks for the thought, but the ad says it's a 215 -- I need a 225.

It was the "fast and dirty" part that I wanted to avoid, because most people use numbers like "30," or "31" or "33" for tire diameter, and they very rarely come close. For example, most 30" tires actually measure 29-1/2" in diameter off the vehicle, and the effective diameter with the vehicle's weight is closer to 29". So I went to tire company spec sheets and based the spreadsheet calculations on the most accurate number available -- the actual revolutions-per-mile provided by a tire company. But ... even within one brand, different models will be slightly different, so the spreadsheet can't be dead nuts on the mark for everyone. But it should be closer than just about anything else you can find. Note the disclaimer on the linked site:

Photos: That's all there is to it. I don't regard it as a "pressure bleeder," because there's no reservoir and you still have to refill the master after each wheel. It's more of a "pressure-assisted gravity bleed," but it worked very well and made my job a lot easier. I didn't know what to use for pressure. I talked to a friend who is a VW shop foreman. He said VW uses a pressure of one bar (one atmospheric pressure, or about 14.x psi) on their pressure bleeders. So we figured 10 psi should be safe for the plastic reservoir on the Jeeps, and I found that 7 psi gave me enough to move sufficient fluid to purge the air even after replacing the hard line from the master to the rear axle, AND the hard line across to the right rear wheel.

Now if I could match this for the old, Ford-style, dual chamber master cylinders on the early XJs and MJs, I'd be ecstatic. Had to replace nearly all of the hard brake lines under a 2001 XJ due to rust-out. Nobody around to help with the bleeding, and my Mighty-Vac suction bleeder wasn't getting the job done. I think it was pulling air around the threads of the bleeder screw. Dilemma. Then I noticed the neat little black circle in the center of the bright yellow cap for the master cylinder. That little hole just seemed to be crying out, "Drill hole here." I also had a set of XJ alloy rims on which two of the four had aftermarket metal valve stems. Hmmm ... Picked up a spare master cylinder cover. I removed the inner gasket and drilled out the center to a 7/16" diameter, which is the right size for the rubber gasket on the metal valve stem. Added a 7/16" flat washer on the outside and snugged it up. On the inside of the cover, there's a small channel across the top and down the side. That's for pressure equalization, but it would interfere with pressurizing the master so I filled that in with RTV sealant and struck it off flush. I cut the center out of the stock cover gasket (the center portion that expands into the reservoir if the fluid level drops). Done. I used it today, and it worked like a champ. My original plan was to connect a bicycle pump to it, but I couldn't find either of the two I should have here. So I took my spare air can and charged it to between 7 and 10 psi. (I think 10 psi is an upper limit, and I tried to not go above 7.) Once I had the air can ready, I put a length of clear tubing over the bleeder and into a bottle, cracked the bleeder about a quarter of a turn, and applied the fill nozzle to the valve stem of my new master cylinder cap. Just stood there for maybe a minute, watching the level drop, then I pulled off the air nozzle, closed the bleeder screw, and that wheel was done. Refill master and repeat for the other three wheels. "I love it when a plan comes together."* *Colonel Hannibal Smith, The A-Team

I think that's pretty terrible. $100 to replace the seal? Auto Zone has the seal for $7.19. As has been pointed out, it only takes a few minutes to change it. The worst part of the job is dropping the rear u-joint to pull the driveshaft. Pop the old seal out, press the new seal in ... button up the driveshaft and you're done.

It's only 5/8" longer. If the OP's new shaft is only "about" an inch too short, I think I'd be more inclined to try the YJ yoke at 5/8" longer than the Chevy truck yoke at several inches longer. The Chevy yoke is likely long enough that it would be jammed all the way in and break something when the suspension compresses -- or else it's so long it won't go into the vehicle at all.

Trying to fill out a couple of partial sets for street XJs and MJs in stock trim. I'm looking for a couple of the original "Goodyear Wrangler Radial" in 225/75R15. These are what came on XJs and MJs in the late 80s and perhaps the early 90s. If you have one or two with 50% or better tread, I'm interested. Likewise for Goodyear Wrangler RT/S and Goodyear Wrangler GS-A. Also in 225/75R15. I need one of the RT/S but one of the set (of four) I have is thin, so I could use two. And I have only one of the GS-A, supposedly a take-off spare from a Grand Cherokee. The one I have has never seen the road, still has the mold spikes on it. Could use three or four more to make up a set. Please let me know what you have. If you're close to southern Connecticut to avoid shipping, that's even better.

A friend of mine cut the driver's floor pan out of an old XJ in my yard and used it to repair his MJ. The tranny tunnel part was fine, but he had to do some customizing in the middle of the floor pan due th the MJ floor braces.