Eagle

Not off-hand, but why aluminum? Weight really isn't an issue for an MJ, and copper cools better than aluminum.

No, but it can be done. The AMC 20 is the axle that AMC used under all the V8 Javelins and AMXs, from the 290 all that way up to the 401. I used to race with guys who ran VERY built 390 AMXs with basically stock AMC 20 axles. Some even ran the factory limited slip, others went with Detroit Lockers. Except for one guy who built an AMX (the original, 2-seat version) for pro stock. To fit the size (width) tires he needed without adding external flares, he had to cut out the unibody in the trunk, weld in a custom-made, narrowed sub-frame, and shorten the axles several inches on each side. That was a very long time ago and I don't know if I ever knew exactly how he shortened the axles. If I knew once, I sure don't remember now. But it can be done and has been done.

I agree it'll run better if tuned right. Do you think you can set the timing better than the computer? You already discovered that the distributor cannot be adjusted. Why are you surprised to have it confirmed that the timing is not user adjustable?

That's correct. Timing is controlled by the ECU.

Okay, then on to my next question: Are you over-filling the plastic bottle?

The 304 was completely emasculated compared to the 290 that preceded it, even in 1970 (which was the first year for the 304). The good news is that the 360 (and the 390 and 401) are externally exactly the same engine, so it's no more (or less!) work to fit a 360 into an XJ or MJ than it is for a 304. I had a 360 2-barrel in my 1978 full-size Cherokee and it was a VERY strong engine. My brother also had a '78 Cherokee, but his had the 4-barrel version. It was a torque monster. What severely limits the 304 is the valves are too small. The 360, 390 and 401 have MUCH larger valves. I'd have to go find my copy of the old AMC "Go Fast Book" but my fuzzy recollection is you can't just bolt on 360 heads because the smaller cylinders won't allow the valves to open. Interference fit, and all that. But that doesn't mean you can't do a bunch of head work, porting and polishing, and perhaps fit in slightly oversized valves, to free up the airflow a bit. And torque at low RPM doesn't require as much air flow as high RPM horsepower anyway, so combine some head work with a good RV or torquer camshaft and you could be on your way.

It's not. Pete isn't kidding about cooling issues.

If it's boiling over, how do you know it holds pressure? I don't know any way to test those plastic caps. Another thought: How full are you filling that bottle? It should be filled halfway when cold. Because there is no expansion bottle, it needs that air space at the top for coolant expansion. If you have been filling the plastic bottle to the top, that's whay it has been boiling over. The only effective way to test a radiator is to remove it from the vehicle and take it to a radiator shop to be pressure and flow tested.

There isn't much point to doing anything until you know what the cause of the problem is. It's an '88 4.0L, so it should have the plastic coolant tank on the firewall (passenger side). If it's boiling over, that's where it will boil out. Is the tank cracked? Does the cap hold pressure? That tank isn't an "overflow" tank on the '88s -- it is part of the pressurized system, and if the plastic cap won't seal to the plastic tank -- the system won't hold pressure and that's often a cause of overheating. Check that first. Do not judge by how hot the hood gets. The hood on my '88 gets too hot to open without risk of burns on a summer day, and my cooling system works fine. Same is true for my wife's 2000 XJ and my 2000 XJ. So I don't consider that to be even a symptom of a problem, but obviously boiling over IS a symptom of a problem. You may need a radiator, and if it's the original radiator in an '88 with idiot lights I would almost bet that ultimately you'll be buying a radiator. But -- check out the pressure bottle first.

Right, but that's only the slider that triggers the brake warning light. If either the front or the rear circuit fails, the pressure differential moves that slider, which then activates the switch (that off-white plastic thing screwed into the top of the metering block). Once the brakes have been repaired and bled, a couple of good, hard stomps on the brakes generally is all that's needed to reset the switch and slider. Doesn't affect the braking. (Except to allow full pressure to the rear circuit if the front brakes fail.) Here's what they look like inside:

??? Huh? That distribution block just beneath the master cylinder is NOT a proportioning valve in the Comanche, and there is nothing inside it that could "freeze." It's function is completely different from the XJ proportioning valve, which IS built into that metering block.

The adjustment clevis (part #5 in the diagram provided above) has a round hole in it, but the frame pocket has a horizontally elongated hole in it as well. The rear control arm bolt goes through both the frame pocket walls and the clevis. The real strength comes from the frame pocket, which is much heavier steel than the arms of the clevis. That just provides the adjustment, then the bolt is socked down, clamping the walls of the frame pocket against the steel sleeve in the bushing. It's really the frame pocket that holds the control arm in the vehicle.

They should test the amperage draw on the starter and check that against the specs for the vehicle. Even if the motor spins, excessive current draw means it's no good.

Lee, meet Jon. Jon, say "Hello" to Lee. viewtopic.php?f=2&t=36841

I remember that the rear springs are 14mm -- if 9/16" is close for the front, then those are probably also 14mm. 9/16 = .5625 14mm = .5512

It could be battery, it could be wiring, and it could be starter. Usually starters simply quit, but they can deteriorate such that heat increases internal resistance, and that can result in slow turing and higher than normal current draw. The starter is only held in by two bolts and two wire connections. Pull it Friday night (if you don't work on Saturday), and Saturday morning take it to an Auto Zone or Advance Auto and have it bench tested.

Why have it custom bent? That's the stock exit location -- just buy an OEM replacement from Auto Zone.

Yes, but there are no inner seals in D44s except for the real old models like the early CJs. The axle bearings are lubed by the gear oil. Since your D35 has the inner and outer seals, here's a good tip you might can do before assembly to keep the bearings lubed easier. http://www.jeeptech.com/axle/zerk.html That's an interesting link, and I suppose some grease is always better than no grease. However, just squirting some grease into the general vicinity of a bearing is NOT "packing" the bearing. There is no substitute for actually working the grease into the spaces between the rollers.

Look on the HELP! rack at the parts store. There's a socket for some Ford vehicles that's a direct replacement for the Jeep socket. (Might be made of metal instead of plastic, but it's a perfect fit.)

Yep. If I was a betting man, I wouldn't bet against you on that. Pack 'em.

Body lines changed in 1997 -- Correct. '91 - '96 is direct replacement for '92 -- Also Correct. The '84 - '90 (or maybe '89) header and grille look the same from a few feet away, but they ARE different. On the early ones, the horizontal trim piece across the top of the grille and headlight bezels is a separate piece (three separate pieces, if you include the headlight bezels). Those pieces attach to the header panel. Chrysler changed the design to make those integral to the grille and headlight doors, and the Chrysler design thus requires a different header panel. If you ONLY need the header panel but your grille and headlight bezels are intact -- get the 91 - 96 header. If you also need a grille and headlight bezels, you can go either way, but you have to get all the pieces from the same range of years.

The upper end doesn't "connect" to anything. It's just a vent, and the white plastic thingie is a sort of check valve. The factory zip tied tthem to other wires and hoses in the vicinity of the brake booster, but the exact location isn't critical. The important thing was to keep it high so it would be above water if fording streams off-road.

2.5L takes 5 quarts. 4.0L takes six.

Is "Sparkles" the '96 Cherokee? I have the 31s on an '88. Somewhere after Chrysler took over they shifted the location of the axle centering hole in the leaf springs by 1/4" -- don't recall if it was forward or back. That could make a world of difference.

Disagree all you like. I have 31x10.50s on my '88 Cherokee right now, parked outside. Stock height -- no lift. If it didn't work, I wouldn't have written that it works.