Eagle

What size tank? The way to calculate gas mileage is to fill the tank, record the mileage, drive the truck, refill it and again note the mileage. Subtract the first mileage from the second, then divide by how many gallons it took to refill the tank. Just dumping gas in and guessing how many miles you can go on a tank is not even a little bit accurate.

Even in the last photo the needle isn't in the red -- what makes you think you were overheating? There's no way to convert those hash marks to a temperature -- the dial isn't calibrated linearly. Was it boiling over? If not, it wasn't overheating.

Heads up!!!! My anti-virus software would not allow me to open that link. Trojan horse alert.

Silicone brake fluid will not mix with DOT-3 or DOT-4 (think oil and water), but there's no chemical reaction. They are "compatible" in that they'll just sit there in the same system without talking to one another. Just use a turkey baster to suck as much of the old stuff out of the master as you can, then fill with silicone and bleed as usual to purge the old stuff out of the lines. If you replace the clutch master, obviously there's no need for the turkey baster.

D44 and D35 axle shafts are not the same, but a D44 from an XJ will have the same shafts as a D44 from an MJ.

When I was shopping for a bed mat for my shortbed, all Pep Boys had was one for a longbed mini-pickup. So I bought it and used it with the back folded up to help protect the tailgate.

I'd like to know what the OP thinks is wrong with his VIN? Why do you think it doesn't conform to ID specs? (Whatever that means to you.)

No, there isn't. Try to buy the new slave from a Jeep dealer rather than a parts chain, if you can. You'll pay more, but there's a chance it'll last longer. Next, my personal suggestion is to NOT use conventional brake fluid. When Jeep was using the internal slaves, they were using a specific hydraulic fluid that was specially formulated for hydraulic clutches. I don't think it's available now, even from a dealer. Some of the parts chains sometimes sell a fluid labeled for clutch, but I don't know if it's the same. I use DOT-5 silicone brake fluid. The clutch in my '88 XJ was replaced (with a new slave) in the autumn of 2000 (I think -- or 1999). It's now 83,000 miles and ten years later, and I've had no problems with it.

You just have to reformat the font:

The key to removing anything that's had red Loctite on it is heat. You have to heat it up to loosen the bond. If you have oil leaks, obviously an open flame (torch) is probably not a good idea. A heavy duty soldering gun or electric soldering iton might to it.

Yeah. Bob Salemi, the guy in Rhode Island who runs the pro stock MJ, did exactly that on his daily driver XJ. It came out very nicely. I don't have pics, but he did just what you propose -- filled in the upper corners, mounted the header to the fenders, than filed and sanded down the corners to blend into the contours of the fenders.

I would guess you are correct. The headlight switch in the dash has a circuit breaker that reacts to current draw. If the new lights are run through a relay, the switch should be seeing a lot LESS current than the OEM setup, and it would be seeing the same draw for high beams or low beams.

404 (Page Not Found) Error

Thanks to CPA Tim's electrical manual, I confirmed my recollection that there is no black box such as in your photos associated with the headlights. The box you are tinkering with is either the ECU or a cruise control module. I would disconnect from it anything that isn't factory, put it back in the dashboard where it belongs, and start over on the foglight wiring.

What are you using for the pan gasket? Are you using the new, one-piece gasket (good) or the old, multi-piece gasket set (bad)?

None of us likes to waste money throwing parts at problems with no result, and we don't generally start off by suggesting that you throw parts at anything. We generally suggest taking some time to figure out what the probel might be, THEN take a deep breath and throw a part or two at it. The problem is, some people read ONE response and then rush out to buy that part, while three other people are explaining why that part can't be the problem. I know you want your truck running and on the road, but it's more than twenty years old, and somebody has been changing things. You cannot reasonably expect to figure out what's wrong just by guessing. You will have to investigate, test, diagnose ... and then mutter incantations on the night of the full moon to the Jeep deity of your choice. Basics: To run, an internal combustion engine requires three things: fuel, air, and spark. You have an aftermarket distributor, so spark is (IMHO) immediately suspect. Easy check -- pull a plug wire off, hold it in INSULATED pliers near a head bolt, have someone crank the engine, and hope you see a big, fat, blue spark jump from the wire to the bolt. Try that, and report back what you found.

What year MJ is this? Does that box have a Jeep part number on it? It certainly has nothing to do with headlights.

As Jim already wrote, more likely the rod bearings. But, as long as you're in there, it doesn't make sense not to replace everything.

??? 1999 was the first year for the WJ. Is this really a WJ and you wrote the wrong year, or is it a ZJ? 1997 (or 1999, if it's a WJ) was OBD-II. Takes an OBD-II scanner.

Whatever you do, DON'T "grind" anything off the bench. IIRC, the MJ pedestals are simply bolted to the seats. And the pedestals are the same for the bench and for the buckets, except the right side for the bench doesn't have the handle for the fore-aft adjustment.

The TJ front axles are bolt-ins, but they are low pinion. Aren't the JK axles 4" wider?

First, what brand oil filter did you put on? If it's a Fram ... change it and report back what the oil pressure is. Second: Your MJ's oil pressure is FAR too high and you should not use that for a basis of diagnosis. The factory spec is (with the engine at operating temperature) 13 psi minimum at idle, and 37 to 75 psi above 1600 RPM. Every 4.0L I've encountered with under 100,000 miles on it has run 50 to 55 psi at 55 to 60 MPH, and idle typically is around 25 psi. The readings on your "new" XJ were within spec before you did the oil change, although lower than I would expect or than I would want to see. I would agree that (if a new oil filter doesn't make a difference) you probably need to replace the bearings.

You haven't mentioned checking either the coil or the ignition module. You also haven't mentioned if the aftermarket distributor works with those or replaced those. The factory ignition is (was) a high-output ignition, so why anyone would have installed an aftermarket distributor is beyond my understanding. My best guess is that there was a problem, he tried to "fix" it, the fix didn't work so he sold the truck.

What difference does it make how they feel while you're bleeding? I've been at this for more than fifty years and I've never heard of anyone bleeding the brakes with the engine running. Not ever. If they're soft, they'll be soft with the engine off, and if they're hard they'll be hard. The point is to get the air out, and you have much better feel for what's happening under your foot without the vacuum booster "helping." Actually, you want the drums adjusted BEFORE you bleed, otherwise excess travel in the shoes may feel like a spongy peddle when it isn't. I agre with JeepCO -- the OP has a vacuum leak.

Correct. The right side should be there, used for the tailpipe hanger. I have a set of new hitch nut plates for the XJ that I'll use if needed.