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Eagle

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Everything posted by Eagle

  1. Yes. Much easier to just lock the CAD in the engaged position unless you need the strength of the one-piece axle shaft for off-road use with large tires.
  2. Could be, but I have a fairly hard-and-fast rule against answering ads for Jeep parts from people who don't know what engine is in their vehicle.
  3. The factory shipped them with the block heater cord tied up in a bundle and zip tied on top of the intake manifold. Each owner feeds it out wherever they find convenient.
  4. My wife doesn't understand, but this is why I maintain the "fleet" of genuine XJs and MJs. Unfortunately, I got pretty well shafted on the 2001 XJ I bought earlier this year, but since then I found a small used car dealer in the town where I used to live who specializes in Cherokees. Haven't sprung it on my wife yet, but I am seriously thinking of picking up two more late-model XJs. One will be maintained as an XJ, the other will be a donor to update a Comanche to HO specs.
  5. The "new" 2001 XJ is throwing codes at me again. One that pops up persistently is small evaporative leak. I keep thinking that's the fuel filler cap, and when I pay attention and click it several times rather than the one or two clicks I use on the other XJs it seems to keep the light at bay -- mostly. But there's a new trick. This one popped up once a number of weeks ago, never came back after I cleared it, but now it pops up almost every day. P0705 -- PRNDL sensor error. What the heck kind of sensor does the PRNDL have, and why would it be throwing error codes at me?
  6. mnkyboy beat me to it, but there was no 4.0L engine in any 1985 XJ. In 1985 it was either the 2.5L I-4 or the 2.8L V-6. Keep looking for a 1987 through 1989 231.
  7. The NP207 should bolt up to a Peugeot tranny (I think) but it won't work with an AX-15. It's not a great transfer case. The low range is not as low as the NP231 used from 87 through the end of XJ production, and the internal oiling is not as good. Try it if you already have it, but I wouldn't seek it out if your looking to convert a 2WD into a 4WD.
  8. The aux fan does not come on at 210 degrees. 210 is the normal operating temperature. The aux fan doesn't kick on until something like 230 or 240 degrees (or the dash gauge).
  9. That sensor has nothing to do with the aux. fan -- it only controls the gauge. The sensor for the aux fan is the large(ish) plug halfway up the driver's side radiator tank, with two moderately heavy-gauge wires coming off it.
  10. I don't think you have a bad ground. All the gauges in the Renix cluster are energized by sensors with a range of 0 to 88 ohms. Zero ohms (no resistance) is empty -- 88 ohms (max resistance) is full. Disconnecting the sender creates an infinite (very high) resistance, which would peg the gauge. Yours does that. A bad ground would create an open circuit, and that would do the same thing -- the gauge would read full all the time. If the gauge reads empty, the circuit is sensing zero ohms (no resistance). That's either a bad sender, or a short circuit in the wiring.
  11. IMHO the copper Champion truck plugs are a good second choice, but standard NGKs (not platinum) are best in the XJ/MJ engines.
  12. Your post says you have a '90 MJ. The photo shows that you have swapped in a late-model front clip. Did you by any chance change to a newer wiring harness? Where is the temp sender you changed located?
  13. http://comancheclub.com/topic/35553-need-help-buying-new-shocks/page__hl__shocks See post number 4
  14. Clogged catalytic converter.
  15. This. I go to a shop owned by car nuts, and who happen to own (or used to own) both an AMX and a Comanche Eliminator. They are friends. When I have asked about windshields, they are careful to ask if I want a low price, or if I want to see through it. Low price gets what they call "off-shore" glass. Higher price gets American glass, with far fewer imperfections.
  16. What 2.5L engine are you referring to here, the Iron Duke? The Jeep 2.5L has the same bell housing bolt pattern as the 2.8L/3.4L V6.
  17. It's not an ignorant statement. It's a statement based on multiple observations over the course of 24 years of owning and driving Xjs. I've seen many small-blocks in XJs, and they have ALL had cooling problems. If it weren't a persistent problem, it wouldn't come up so often on so many Jeep forums. Are there some people who have made it work? Sure -- but it won't happen by accident, and it costs money. If the goal is just to gain a bit of power and reliability over a 2.8L, doing the small-block V8 conversion is a waste of money and effort.
  18. The article is incorrect. Every XJ/MJ lower ball joint I've seen has a hole for a grease fitting, and they come with both a Zerk and a plug. The routine is to install the ball joints, insert the Zerk fitting and grease the ball joint, then remove the Zerk and install the plug. The plug sits low enough that the u-joints clear it when rotating.
  19. Did you test the starter relay? If you know that's good, then you need to check the ignition switch.
  20. Pretty much everyone who has swapped in a 3.4L for the 2.8L has been very satisfied with the results. It's a better, smoother-ruuning engine that also produces more horsepower. And what it WON'T do is create all the cooling problems that plague the small-block Chevy V8 conversions.
  21. I don't believe there are any sensors under the dashboard (but I don't have an HO vintage MJ, so I'm not certain). What would there be to sense? The sensors are all under the hood, they feed into the main harness under the hood, and there's a single connector that plugs into the back of the instrument cluster (and a smaller plug on the left of the cluster for the various secondary status lights).
  22. Let's use better terminology. "On" = "ignition." You have ignition when the key is on the On or Run position, otherwise the engine wouldn't run. When you turn the key beyond On to the Start position, all accessories should be bypassed and the starter should engage. So if by "on" you mean the run position, you should have instrument warning lights, but the ignition switch should not be turning on any interior lights. If by "ignition" you mean "Start," then you need to figure out why the starter isn't engaging. Have you checked the starter relay? Can you jumper to the solenoid and engage the starter? If not, the solenoid may be bad. If the solenoid clicks but the starter doesn't do anything, the starter is bad.
  23. Going to tires that are several sizes larger than stock is like going the wrong way with an axle gear change, or shifting into overdrive. And the 2.5L doesn't have the Moxie to run an overdrive with that axle ratio. There's a reason the factory used 4.10 gears behind the 2.5L with the 5-speed. Your factory tire size should have been 205/75R15. My chart doesn't even go that small, so I have to look at 215/75s. For that tire size, 60 MPH equates to 2669 RPM, which is below the 3250 RPM torque peak for your year. 70 MPH is 3115 RPM, which is effectively right at the torque peak. Try to go faster, and as the drag increases your torque decreases. With 235s, the 60 MPH engine speed drops to 2556 RPM, which is a loss of about 5 percent. That's about the equivalent of changing your axle ratio to 3.31. It puts you below the torque peak, and WAY down on the horsepower curve.
  24. Calibrate = good. Calibrate to another vehicle = bad. There's very little chance that the speedometer on another vehicle is really going to be accurate. If there's a police department near you that deploys those radar speed sign trailers, run your MJ through that and see what the radar reports compared to your speedo. Or borrow a GPS and calibrate to that. I haven't checked any of my MJs, but I have checked four (4) XJs, and the speedometers on all four read from 2 to 4 MPH faster than actual speed, on stock tires with no changes to gearing. And that's been checked both by radar trailer and (for two of them) GPS.
  25. Exactly what is it doing or not doing? Does it turn over but not fire, or not even turn over?
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