Eagle

The Mopar perches I linked to are not "factory stock." They are not Jeep parts, they're from the Mopar Performance Catalog. If he knows that, and dealer parts guy can find them in seconds. If you tell him they're for a Comanche or a Cherokee, he'll spend a week looking and never find them.

Cheapest option is a Trac-Lok. This is what the factory used, and they are available aftermarket. Pricier but IMHO better would be a Detroit TrueTrac. It's a gear-driven limited slip that doesn't require special additives for the gear oil. Both are full case differentials, which means they require professional (or advanced amateur) installation.

You asked this two days ago and it was answered. http://comancheclub.com/topic/32175-bearing-in-ba10-making-noise/

It's just hard to understand how multiple aftermarket parts could ALL be the same and yet ALL be wrong. I put a Crown flexplate into an '88 XJ several years ago, and it fired right up and ran perfectly. I can't understand how they would have changed their production since then. Is there any possibility that you got the holes misaligned? I know the six mounting holes are staggered slightly, but is it possible that by a little forcing the flexplate could have been installed in an incorrect alignment?

Plus the CPS & ECU also tell the injectors when to squirt.

If you run them on factory Jeep rims, the only place they will rub is the trailing inside shoulder of the tire will rub against the lower control arm when the steering is cranked all the way over to full lock. A LIFT WILL NOT ALLEVIATE THIS. Either you don't turn the steering wheel to full lock ... or you shim the steering stop, which does the same thing but with a physical impediment.

The BA10/5 setup uses the combination internal slave cylinder & release (throw-out) bearing. The get the assembly off the transmission input shaft, the input shaft (and thus the tranny and bell housing) has to be pulled back far enough to completely be free from the clutch disc splines, plus about another three or four inches. And, if I remember correctly, the release bearing assembly is bolted into the bell housing. In essence, you're pulling the transmission, whether you want to or not. Personally, for the work involved to get at the release bearing, I think it makes sense to do the entire clutch kit while you're in there, unless money is VERY tight.

^^^^ This. And scrubbing the bore is the least of the problems. Shooting .22LR ammo really clogs up the gas tube system, and then your AR won't work when you put the 5.56mm bolt back in and want to shoot "real" ammo again. The M&P is okay but I would look first at the Colt/Umarex. And then I'd look very hard at a dedicated .22LR upper from Model 1 Sales ...

Eagle SX/4 for the win. All it really needed was a 2-speed transfer case ... although a solid front axle would have been nice, too.

Since this question was already asked and answered a few days ago, we can close this thread.

Neither. Don't lift it. Not needed. Once you lift it, you start needing other parts. "If it ain't broke, don't fix it."

You can run up to 31x10.50s on factory rimes with no lift. Put on your 30" tires and drive it -- save your money for something you need.

If you still have the factory flares, the stock measurements from the center of the hub to the bottom edge of the flare should be 17-1/2" front and 21-1/2" rear. My suggestion for searching shocks is the Monroe catalog. Their web site has the same info. They offer listings in the back for physical dimensions of all their shocks, with the type of mount on each end, and they offer a reverse look-up from shock number to vehicle. So you look up the shocks for a stock MJ. Take those numbers and go to the dimensions chart, and find out the minimum and maximum length for each shock. Average those and you have the mid-length measurement, which is where the piston should be sitting at the curb on level ground. If you have a 5-1/2" lift, next you just leaf through the shocks by dimension until you find one with the correct end mounts that's 5-1/2" longer (or as close as possible) than stock. If you like that series of Monroe, just buy it. Or ... take that to the reverse lookup chart and see what vehicle it fits. Then you can shop other brands for that make and model vehicle and you'll have your shocks.

The ones from the Mopar Performance Catalog are heavier-duty and cost less than half as much. http://www.mopar.com/assets/pdf/performance/catalog/Steering_Suspension_&_Brakes.pdf Scroll to the top of page 10

This is correct. Just unplug it. It isn't a Check Engine light, it's nothing but a reminder to replace the O2 sensor. The factory says to replace the light/timer and that it isn't serviceable, but people have figured out how to reset it if you wish to retain it. To the OP -- how does your engine run with no oxygen sensor? And by that, I don't mean "does it run well or badly." I don't think the system will function with no oxygen sensor. (Or does it default to open loop mode and you're just running a rich mix all the time?)

Yes, that's the CAD vacuum harness.

You're right ... once the thermostat opens fully, the coolant flows as much as it can. But -- the coolant can also flow TOO fast. When I crewed on short track stock cars, most of the teams trimmed the impellers on the water pumps to make them flow LESS water (no glycol allowed on the race track) because the engines were always turning high RPMs. The coolant didn't have enough "dwell time" in the radiator to allow heat transfer to take place otherwise. To some extent, that may be happening with your Jeep. The radiator is blocked, so less cool/cold air can pass through the fins. At idle, the fans can pull air up from beneath, but when you're moving the nose of the vehicle probably channels airflow under and over the vehicle rather than past the winch. But ... back to basics. Your photos do not show "overheating." If it isn't boiling over and spewing coolant, it isn't overheating.

For the '87, there's a vacuum line that runs from a port on the transfer case to a switch on the firewall. That controls the dash 4WD light, IIRC, and from there the vacuum splits into a harness that goes to the axle disconnect shift motor. You can just lock the axle in the 4WD position and not worry about it. And you don't really need the 4WD light, unless you think you're likely to put it into 4WD and forget ...

Seats - check Electronics - totally different Fuse block - Don't know, never looked at a '92 Cruise - Don't know

Considering the mismatch on the flex plate signal windows, I don't see any point at all in trying a timing light or testing the CPS. That new flex plate ain't a-gonna work, and you can take that to the bank. Call Todd or Richie at Bradshaw Jeep and ask them to order a Crown flex plate for you. I put one into an '88 XJ a couple of years ago (same problem, original was cracked) and it worked fine. 860-274-8834, Ext 3

You can use that harness. If you stay with the 5-speed, obviously tou won't need the tranny computer and its associated wiring.

But the internals are different. The XJ "thingie" is a proportioning valve, with a spring and a plunger in it. The MJ "thingie" is nothing but a distribution block, with a shuttle valve to allow bypassing the rear height-sensing valve in the event of a front brake loss.

What CPS is in the truck now? Is the CPS compatible with the flywheel/flexplate?

I was thinking the same thing.

Plugging the bottom outlet and using the "nose" outlet is correct. Only thing I can think of is that the new master cylinder may be defective.