Eagle

Did you miss the rebuilt Jasper engine? That's probably a $2500 ticket, right there. From the engine room photo it doesn't appear that the engine was replaced last week, but an overall low mileage truck with a professionally rebuilt engine has to be worth something. $1500? $2000?

I also can't vote ...

Pretty much. Let's see if this will show up large enough to read:

245 by what? And when you say 30.5s ... that's not a tire size. Are you really talking about 31x10.50s, which are typically 30.5" in diameter, or are you talking about 30x9.50s, which are typically 29.5" in diameter? 245/75-15s are also 29.5" in diameter. 245/70-15s are 28.5" in diameter. 245/75-16s are 30.5" in diameter. What do you have?

Tire balance.

Heißen Sie willkommen zum Comanche Klub Forum, übrigens.

No, it doesn't bypass the relay. From your description, it sounds like power is not getting to the solenoid. That's the smaller, cylindrical thingie mounted to the starter. The solenoid is like a magnetic clutch that engages the toothed drive gear on the starter with the teeth on the flywheel ring gear. Shorting those two contacts energizes the magnet in the solenoid, which pulls the drive gear into position. Pull the starter and have it checked out on a bench tester.

What kind of SYE does Tom Woods offer? Is it a true SYE or is it a hack-and-tap? [EDIT]Never mind -- I looked it up. It's a modified hack-and-tap.

Been there, done that. I had my '88 set up with 3.73s and 31x10.50 tires. The speed:RPM ratio was EXACTLY the same as my wife's XJ with stock tires and 3.54 gears. It was ... "okay" ... but I really wish I had more gear. I put the 3.73s in because I had them, but they were bought with the intention of running 30x9.50 tires, not 31s. IMHO for your setup you should be running 4.10 gears.

here's a link for you http://widetrackdrive.com/temp/mj/tach-pot.jpg :cheers: That's a good photo. The potentiometer is the part labeled "J103C"

I agree that it's a good idea to have a double flaring kit, but spend the extra to get a good one. The cheap ones don't hold the line, so you get crappy flares that leak -- or you just can't get a flare. A friend of mine and I spent a couple of hours in his garage trying to do ONE stupid flare with a cheap Auto Zone flare tool, and never got it done. I got my flare tool set and the flare took maybe three minutes.

Of course -- that's why the relay is there. But the "trigger" signal is still 12 volts.

If it works, don't change it. But the KC relay is redundant, because you now have a relay controlling the "trigger" function of the OEM fan relay. @lsmurphy, everything in an MJ is 12 volts, so your characterization of the "trigger" wire as "low voltage" is way off base. What I said stands: If you want to control the fan with a switch, you MUST run wiring into the cab. (Unless you want to go high tech and create a wireless remote to actuate the fan relay.)

If you want to control the fan with a switch inside the cab, obviously the wiring has to enter the cab. The difference between doing as Craig Houghtaling did and the way I suggested is that doing it Craig's way allows you to run the fan when the engine is off. Doing it the way I suggested won't run the fan if the engine is off.

I think I understand that your intention is to have the fan run all the time, but if you do it this way you will have no option. You will HAVE to run it all the time, or else always control it manually. In cooler weather, if you turn off the fan switch it cannot come on automatically with the a/c because you will have bypassed the control circuit. You already have a fan relay and the circuit to control it based on either radiator temperature or a/c operation. IMHO it makes no sense to cut out the relay that's intended to run the fan and then use a relay that's NOT untended to control the fan. The sensor in the radiator is nothing but an on/off switch that's actuated by temperature. You can't "energize" a sensor. You would disconnect the wires from the back of the switch, tap onto the two wires coming off the radiator sensor, and run two new wires directly to your switch. That leaves the entire OEM fan control system intact, and allows you to use your toggle switch as a manual override.

I thought it might be. Vented crawl spaces aren't too normal this far north. Crawl spaces are a bit of a grey area anyways, seems people have a lot of different ideas on venting. Building codes in the U.S. have required venting for crawl spaces for at least 30 or 40 years.

About 4 or 5 years ago my brother added a 24x24 two-bay garage to his house. As an addition it had only three walls, and it wasn't heated or insulated. He paid about $12,000 ... and got a crappy job, with the building hanging off the foundation on the end. We did the electric ourselves. $30,000 is reasonable. You can probably get a decent job for a bit less than that, even with electric and insulation, but that's a good budget number to be sure you're covered.

I had a '99 WJ with the 4.7. Granted it was the first year of production for the WJ and for the 4.7L V8, but mine lasted 9 months and 14,000 miles. I had already had enough driveline problems that Chrysler was buying it back (to prevent me from going lemon law) and the replacement (a 2000 XJ Classic) was on order, but the WJ finally just died on me 2 miles from home, on the way to the supermarket. The problem on mine was a failed camshaft position sensor. Which, of course, was not available, so I left the thing at the dealership for Chrysler to pick up. A friend of mine has a 2002 WJ 4.7 -- his engine self-destructed. Cost him something like $5,000 to have it repaired -- it was out of warranty when it blew. To be honest, I hated the engine from Day One. It's just not a Jeep or truck engine. It has no low-end torque at all. It doesn't start to come alive until it's over 3,000 or 3,500 RPM ... which is useless in an off-road oriented vehicle with a highway cruise at around 2000 RPM. It would be a great engine in a Charger or something like that. In a Jeep? NAH!

Do I need hog ring pliers to reinstall the seat covers, or are they slip-fit?

I picked up a 2001 Cherokee Sport that's in fair condition. Interior is pretty clean but the original owner must have been a real lard-@$$, because the driver's seat is REALLY sunk down, and this XJ has fewer miles than our 2000. My plan (I think) is to swap the front seat cushions side-to-side. Does anyone know if this is an easy operation, or is it going to be a PITA?

I'm not clear which relay you plan to use and where you plan to unplug the existing harness. If I were going to do what you want to do, I would skip the KC relay, unplug the connector between the radiator temp sensor (driver's side tank) and the fan relay, and just connect the switch to those two wires. Or not even unplug anything. Use Scotch quick taps to splice into the two wires coming off the radiator tank, then you can let it run normally or use the switch to override if/when you feel the need.

I'm not so sure there is much of a difference. Might be 1/2" or so. I have 2wd MJ springs outa my 88 laying next to 4x4 XJ springs out of a 98, and they are VERY close. I'm thinking the 1/2' difference is because the settling of the MJ from the last 24 years. Maybe ... maybe not. Note that when I measured a used standard front coil and a new Up Country front coil, although the Up Country suspension sits 1" higher than standard the Up Country coil was 1/2" shorter. But it was also visibly thicker wire. You can look up the formula for coil springs on the Internet. The point is that free length is not the only factor. The variables in the formula are coil diameter, wire diameter, free length, and number of coils. Change ANY one of those and you have a different spring. The only variable that's usually constant with XJ/MJ/ZJ springs is the coil diameter. The others are all subject to change, so just knowing the free length really doesn't tell you anything.

Do you have the one that fits over the center of the console, or the one that hangs off the passenger side?

Good luck, Mate. High school kids need some good role models. How long does your training take?

That may be in an 88 MJ, but that has a temperature sender in it, which makes it a 91+ housing.