Optimaldave
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Vancouver, BC
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Optimaldave's Achievements
Can Spell Comanche (2/11)
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I wouldn't mind seeing this. Sounds a lot better than what some of us use :yes: Made a new thread see: viewtopic.php?f=9&t=35847 Dave
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So, as many have discovered, bench seated MJ's have a lack of cupholdability... Really not a good plan for those of us with an admitted coffee addiction :cheers: This was my solution made of parts I already had around: Cost to me: $0 Cost with nothing to start: $10ish Labour: Maybe half an hour including fighting with the rusted bolts to get the cup-holder off the bike... Parts: Cup holder Butterfly Drywall Anchor 4" or so of threaded rod or a screw matching the thread on the butterfly anchor. (I used some heatshrink on the end to tell me when I had backed out the rod before I would lose the anchor, if you had a screw instead, put it head side into the dash) 2 wing-nuts (including yourself) (no, the notes on TPS adjustment are not required, though a good check anyways) Warnings: Hold onto the anchor and rod at all times during install. I managed not to lose the anchor into the dash by holding it taught at almost all times, but when doing this just take care that you hold it out from falling in as I don't know where it would go or how to fish it out. Thread the rod through the anchor so all you have left sticking out from the vent is the same length as the wings on the wing nut and gently put on the cup holder, then the wing nut and tighten it all down. This will mean that you don't have a rod gouging all your cups and poking holes in anything paper. I have had paper cups in there with no issue, but if you smush one in expect to fill your tranny with coffee.. Step one: Remove vent grate: (I used the one center in the cab, I would think the two side vents may also work but I have not tested it) See the pin, one of each end, you want to contract them to remove the grate from the dash And done... Step two: Install the anchor: This is the important part, you want to end up with the anchor like this where it is grabbing onto the back of the dash instead of the back of the vent. This way it is a strong mount vs just ripping out the vent when you go over a nice bump with a full cup. So, squeeze the butterfly anchor together and put it through the vent from the back on the bottom opening such that is is held together by the sides of the vent. (the vent has a top and bottom, says top on the top) Now carefully insert the vent back into the dash, slowly push the anchor into the dash until you hear/feel/see the "wings" snap out behind the dash. From here on hold the anchor taught to the dash and carefully thread the rod through the anchor so all you have left sticking out from the vent is the same length as the wings on the wing nut, gently put on the cup holder, then the wing nut, and tighten it all down. Finished Final Notes: Bad angle but once again, the threaded rod and wing nut are shorter that the back rail of my cup holder so they do not contact the cup. Could use any nut vs a wing-nut but I like not needing tools to take it off, and there is not a high torque needed anyways. Cheers Dave
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I just got a bicycle cup holder, put a 4 odd inch threaded rod and a drywall anchor through it and then through one of the vents. Let the anchor expand behind the two sides of the hole in the dash for the vent, pull it taught, tighten the screw and it is rock solid. Only have on in the center of the cab but I can add another passenger side if I wanted too. Cost me nothing but I already had the cup holder on an old bike so may cost $10 or so to buy one if needed. Can take pics/mini write-up if you all are interested. Cheers Dave
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Ever have that "bonding with your MJ moment"?
Optimaldave replied to lexluthier72's topic in The Pub
Oh yeah, She can be a right pain in the arse sometimes but whenever I drive I realize I wouldn't want any other truck... -
In my area they used to have some gas stations with tanks above ground too. We'd always buy gas from them in the am during the winter and during the summer we'd buy gas at the stations with in-ground tanks. With the in ground tanks the temperature is pretty constant so I doubt there would be any noticeable differences from am/pm purchases. All the pumps here say that the gas is corrected to 15 degrees (celsius) all year round so it makes no difference to us what time of day or temp beyond the winter vs summer blends
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Wow... That sounds kinda special. I too live in BC and have never had a prob with a pre-auth if you pay inside. And no company would be able to deny you a refund if the service or goods were not exchanged as far as I know. I did get told off by a pump jockey once though as richmond is a full service city by law so I pissed a guy off by filling my own tank as I didn't remember that I couldnt pump my gas...
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turn signal issue!
Optimaldave replied to SantaCruzComanche's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
Check the grounds and sockets, bad grounds can cause back feeding in the circuit and have the indicators on with the headlights so it may be your issue. viewtopic.php?f=9&t=26001 Cheers Dave -
Fuel pump fuse and relay
Optimaldave replied to Whisslaren's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
^^^^ correct No fuse, but uses a fusible link at the starter relay. Center relay, though in my 88 pioneer there were only 3. Have you tested for power or just guessing it is electrical? If so where is it losing power or is the whole circuit dead? Can you hear the pump prime when you turn the key to "on"? Swapped the relays or jumped from the battery + to the + on the pump relay socket? I've just gone through replacing my pump and some electrical diagnosis with mine too... Cheers Dave -
I know when I did mine a few days ago there were two pumps depending on TBI or MPI setups. Walbro and Bosch are listed for the 4.0 (mine is 88) but the Bosch is the correct one for MPI which I believe most of ours are. Though the two were very different as the Walbro uses a different mount and filter system. The new (correct) bosch was smaller than the original too and looked much like yours, though a little bit different. I took a pic of the Walbro next to the OEM before returning it (wrong on the left, original on the right)
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For commercial beers Guinness (when poured properly, not butchered by an untrained server at a sports bar) Alexander Keiths Local Vancouver: Dead frog, Granville Island hefeweizen and the seasonal brews And I love a Brewery called Black Sheep in my familys home of Masham, England. The Golden Sheep, Ale, and Holy GRAil are amazing, though tough to come by this side of the water.
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Yes, but I should think the dizzy being able to shake laterally and maybe smacking the block would cause the rotor to have issues making the correct contacts/spinning properly. Uh, yeah!! Just wondering if the dizzy's indexing got screwed up if someone had already sawed off the tab. Could you do me a favor? Lsmurphy has a website and is currently posting all my write-ups on it. Could you see how well they open up for you? I'm having issues but I think it's because I'm the author and Word goes nuts when I try to open them. They're under Help and Resources http://jeepseekers.com/ Tab is still there, bolt just worked loose and was on the last thread :P Site works great on my iPhone at least. Awesome resource cruiser! Cheers Dave
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Yes, but I should think the dizzy being able to shake laterally and maybe smacking the block would cause the rotor to have issues making the correct contacts/spinning properly.
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Well, looks like I'm a complete knob... Got the new pump in (much easier with the original lock ring by the way, the new replacements are a bit larger and much harder to install) test drive still had the issue, so upon contemplating how quickly I can run vs how quick a rag stuffed in the tank can burn... I decided to check everything again. Checked for leaks, no leaks, checked for sensors unplugged/busted, all checked out fine, Checked the dizzy, still rattles.... Wait a sec... Dizzy mount bolt is loose... Torqued, test driven, head slapped.... So for all having this issue in future, maybe check the dizzy isn't rattling against the block, or end up with a new pump, to fix a loose bolt... Beer still tasted good though... Dave
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Tested every sensor I hadn't tested before, all passed, so I got a fuel pump and dug into her. Real PITA getting that lock ring off, and after the battle of getting her out... I got the wrong fuel pump :wall: Put it all together again, drove back to the parts store, got the correct one ordered and now I get to wait until tomorrow... on a plus side I got the speedo cable routed correctly and the exhaust hanger tightened down... Man did my beer taste wonderful today :roll: Dave
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Yeah, I too still somewhat think it is the hose or the strainer but I need all the parts before pulling the unit out so I suppose I will change the whole deal anyways. Will check ground at the pump first though. Already upgraded the ground system and cleaned the ground at the taillight too though. Cheers Dave
