835
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Location
Homosassa FL.
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Interests
Chasing Redfish and Tarpon, Hunting
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835's Achievements
Can Spell Comanche (2/11)
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Looking for the following; 3.73 ring & pinion with carrier for a dana 30, in florida, I'm seaching junk yards now, still no luck, Or just the carrier, I can order new ring & pinion if i have to.
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looking for a set of 4 Pro Comp series 152 rims, 8x15 or 10x15 --5 on 4.5 Central Florida
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Just seeing if anybody had a set of aluminum sand ladders, or my 2nd choice the heavy steel ones.
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Depending on what you want to pay; I have a Marina radio in my truck, has the following; cd player, 3@ fm bands, 1@am band, USB port, I-Pod plug, remote Payed $65.00 Also came with two water proof speakers. West Marina sells them [ got mine on sale], wal-mart also sells them I think the marina radio last longer, I think they are build a little better, maybe because boats take more of a beating then cars [ hitting waves and such]. I'm very happy with it. My Wife's TJ was eating radio's, I put one of these in it and it still's working.
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From my research, I have not found anybody that makes them a bolt in. You will to modified you carb. system. I did a '86 mj with a 2.5, I used a air intake box off of a Chevy Cadillac, then routed the hose to it.
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I might have everything you need to make it 4x4, front axle, tranny & transfer case. I will look this week end on what I have in stock, if not everything my friend will have the rest. I'm in Homosassa a good hour drive north of you.
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Well, I have had mine in now for awhile and still not had drop come in. I live in Florida on the West coast [ about 1 mile from the Gulf], and we have had some pretty mean rain storms come in. Maybe I just got lucky on these, the rubber looked like new when I received them. I open and close them three or four times a day. The only problem I have now is with the snorkle I installed, with snorkle on it blocks the wind coming in the side vent [driver side only]. I run down the road with both of them open. I have not notice any gap/crack anywhere on the vent windows. The main problem in the past with all vent windows from VW bugs, chevy and ford trucks & cars is the pivot point at the top of the glass, they wear out and you have to drill and use a bolt and nut to tighten them up, since they are riveted on.
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Did anybody go? If so how was it?, I had to work the weekend, so I did not make it. Like 99% of the time when nothing is going on I don't work weekends, when somethings does come up I have to work tat day.
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Depending on what you want to call easy or bad; I have done two trucks already that did not have A/C in them. Do you have already the xj/mj to get the parts from? you have to pull the dash out, plus remove some of the wire harness from the compressor to the a/c panel, also going to need the a/c- heater control panel. remove the bolts/nuts from the engine bay to get the a/c- heater box out. you have to swap out the whole heater box you have now, since it does not have a spot for the a/c evaporator. to go into. I don't mess around with used a/c parts, since you don't know how long they will last. I buy all new and know what I have, that and the cost of R22 any more you don't want to be putting used parts in; then three months later replacing them. This is what I buy new; a/c lines [ high side & low ] Dryer expansion valve compressor condenser evaportor Total on the above new, around $400. [ I get a small discount at Napa ] I will be doing this soon to the truck I have now, since it don't have a A/C and I live in Florida with a 110 heat index. It's best you have the xj/mj at your place so you can take the time to pull the parts off and you can see how the wiring goes. You can pull/ take one wire out at a time and install in your truck. It makes it a lot easyier. the parts are pretty straight forward, if need to take a picture of what it looks like with what a/c line goes where. When I do mine, I will take pictures to put on the DIY, but this might not be for another couple of months, I already have the parts for it just need a few things at napa, that and the time to pull the dash out.
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I go to Ocala Craigslist, then click cars/trucks, type in comanche, click in entire post, this will help bring everything up with the world Comanche in it. Here is the main site for Ocala Craigslist; http://ocala.craigslist.org/ Here is the post of the truck I'm talking about; http://ocala.craigslist.org/cto/2530489140.html 1992 jeep comanche eliminator 4x4 swb with 4.0 This is the only way I know how to find something on craigslist
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Monday when I get to my shop I will scan the template and make a copy to send to you, PM your mailing addrest to me.
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You need the following parts; 4' of 3'' rubber flexhose-- have to cut to fit, rubber will make it seal alot better-- maybe a good hardware store 4@ plastic square pieces-- same kind they use on tag plates for bumpers -- auto parts store 4@ screws for above -- hareware or the auto parts store 2@ 3'' plus hose clamps bands-- auto parts store 1@ 3'' steel 90* ------ lowes 1@ 3'' steel pipe about 6'' long---lowes if you get a nipple and a threaded 90 you could pipe dope it up and screw it together instead of welding it. cut the threads off the other end, if welding it all together, cut the threads off both ends, might have to go with a 10'' nipple for that, since you will loose 2'' of pipe at both ends 3@ metric bolts about 1/2'' long, go to the hardware store for size. 1@ 1/8''x 4''x 5'' steel plate welding shop or your friends shop [he should have some steel laying around] 1@ 1/8'' x 2 5/8''x 5 1/2''-- same as above 4@ metic studs [hardware store] take the snorkle with you to get the bolts, you could take four bolts that fit and cut the heads off to make the studs, 4@ nuts & washers to fit the studs you made-- hardware store 10@ 5/16'' rivets-- hardware store homemade intake piece, get a piece of 1/8'' steel cut it 4''x5'' out side measurements, then cut out 3'' circle in the middle, weld the 3'' 90* to it facing down, then weld on the 3'' pipe to the 90*, drill 8@ 5/16'' holes around the out side [4 on the long side [5''] and two on the short side [4''] on the top side [ where the top cover lid goes on] #7 8 PICTURE IS WHAT YOU WILL BE MAKING the piece that goes on the windshield pillar; measure back 1'' and make that the break line, break it at 70* , I don't have my angle finder here at the house, but I should be close., might be best to make the break small and work your way up to it hits the snorkle. lay out the holes to line up the snorkle piece this will be on the 1'' side of the plate, drill them a little big space out the other side of the plate should be about 1 1/2'' once you make the break in it. this side gets the four small sheet metal screws that go into the pillar. I would get the snorkle on first then make the piece that goes to the pillar last. #15 IS THE BENT PIECE YOU NEED TO MAKE I don't think you can buy the parts you are missing from ARB, this is how I would do it since you don't them. if you don't have a rivet gun you could just drill them out and use a bolt connection instead.
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check out ocala craiglist, there was a 92 4x4
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First time at doing a write up, I took alot of pictures of the install. How to install a ARB Snorkle on a 1989 Jeep Comanche Tools Needed; SAFETY GLASSES #2 screw driver phillips screw driver 13mm socket - deep or shallow 15mm socket-- deep or shallow 12''3/8'' ext. 3/8'' ratchet 10mm combo wrench 15mm combo wrench 3/8'' or 1/2'' drill 1/8'' drill bit 5/16'' drill bit 3/8'' drill bit 1/2'' drill bit 5/8'' drill bit 3'' hole saw or better a 3 1/4'' hole saw-- if you don't have one use a jig saw with a metal cutting blade duct tape 2 vise grips measureing tape hack saw or 4 1/2''-- 6'' grinder with a .45 cutting wheel file rivet gun, drill bit for rivets 3M 5200 silcone-- you can get this at a boat store, you can get it in a couple of different colors, but white is the cheapest. touch up paint in your truck color 1] First set the parking brake and chalk the rear wheel 2] jack up the front driverside and remove the tire 3]remove the inner fenderwell--- I skipped this part since I do not have either inner fenderwells 4] remove the airbox, in the bottom their is two bolts and nut, the bolts are 13mm and the nut is 15mm, use the 12'' ext for this part, unhook the vac. lines and exhaust tube. 5] cut the intake part off where it went thru the rad. support 6] I in larged the hole to the same size as the intake piece, you can see in the picture of the grease pencil mark. clean up any rought spots with the file 7] place the intake on the airbox and use the two vise grips to hold in place for drilling 8] drill the holes for the rivets, once you have the holes drilled put a good coat of the 3m5200 on it to make good seal, this part is a must. 9] pop rivet the intake piece on and let it set, wipe any excess 5200 around it for cleaner look 10]take the template and lay it out on the fender, tape it down with duct tape, use the grease pencil to mark the holes for drilling and cutting the intake tube. I double checked myself on the layout of the holes 11] next cut a 3'' circle out or a 3 1/4'' circle depending on if you have a hole saw out of a piece of note book paper or poster board, mark center on it and make a hole in it, this will be used for finding the hole you placed with the template. 12] remove the template, the holes should be 1/2'', find center of these holes and mark them for drilling, take the circle cutout you made and place it over the the spot for the intake neck to go thru, trace the circle cut out, use the hole in the center to help find the spot from the template 13] the studs for this are 5/16'', I drilled a 3/8'' hole for them, you could go 1/2'' if you want to, since the snorkle will cover them up an you won't see the larger holes, drill the four holes either 5/16'' or 1/2'', the other hole towards the front is for the main hole. use the hole saw or do what I did and use a jig saw, tape off the area you are cutting so not to tear up the paint. if using the jig saw drill a 5/8'' hole on the inside of the circle to get the blade in; if useing the 3'' hole saw the piece will not fit in since it is more egg shape, you will have to cut out the section towards the cab to get the piece in, install the studs on the snorkle at this time, I used locktite to help hold them from backing out. use the file to help clean up any spots that are sharp 14]paint the holes you drilled and cut to help fight rust install the snorkle now you can layout the plate on the windshield pillar, mark this where the cut out is on the snorkle, you will see where the bolts go in the snorkle piece, then remove the snorkle, take the plate that bolts to the snorkle and mark the holes for drilling 15] drill these four holes 5/16'' for the little plastic pieces to fit in, I put a little 5200 on them to help hold them and seal them, put the four little plastic in and screw them in, need the philllips for this. 16] put the snorkle back on, put the flat washer on and the nuts but do not tighten them up yet, put the three little bolts in up by the windshield pillar, tighten these up first, then install the rubber hose to the snorkle and put on the hose clamp and tighten this up, then tighten up the four nuts---- you might have to take off the comanche badge, depending on where it is placed on the fender. 17] they give you the measurements for it , but I did it a different way, worked better for me, install the airbox, kinda, get it lined up with the holes and draw around the down tube that you install earlie 18] This part sucked, might be easy if you had the hole saw, but I did it with a saw-saw, cut a 3'' circle out for the down tube to go in, once that is done put a little paint on it, install the airbox and put the two bolts and the nut that came out of it. 19] put the other end of the rubber hose on the intake piece you just put thru , install the hose clamp and tighten, almost done. fit the hose up towards the front grill area, since I don't have inner fender wells to help hold this up, I drilled two holes for a tie wrap., If I did have inner fenderwells now is the time to put this back in and put the tire back on. 20] install the top section of the snorkle with the black hose clamp and tighten. close the hood and you are done. It takes about two good hours to install this, took me alittle longer for stopping and getting pictures. Hope I did not forget something. Took me longer to write this up than installing the snorkle
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Jeep fest in Orlando Fl. this Aug 20th & 21st http://www.4wheelparts.com/info/orlando ... -fest.aspx
