ScottJeep

Well, the picture of the grey truck showing the first Nate's WOW what a truck! ( LOL it's mine ). I've towed an 18ft trailer around Atlanta loaded with almost every part of an 81' CJ5 (with the rest in the bed of the truck). It did OK but with two issues, one due to design, the other due to my truck. First, every 2" receiver mount was a bit loose as previously mentioned. Second, my truck is lifted about 3.5" and finding a drop that worked was a PITA. Luckily I don't tow stuff much. Just my 2 cents. Have spent money with DB ( full body armor with integrated flares ). But have now been waiting since October for an ordered product. Good Luck.

Ran the following setup for over a year 2WD before converting the truck to 4WD this past spring. All of my parts are new but most were purchased from other JEEP enthusiasts cause I am cheap. Front - 2" Rusty's Front Springs, JKS ACOS, Rough Country Drop Brackets, Std arms 2WD ( did change to WJ lowers for 4WD). Rear - Iron Rock Off-Road full length AALs Run Bridgestone Dueler RVTs 265/75/16 on JEEP Rubicon MOABs Have only had minor scrubbing in 2WD or my current 4WD configuration.

Have to agree with the prior recommendations to "build it not buy it". All of my parts are new but most were purchased from other JEEP enthusiasts cause I am cheap. Front - 2" Rusty's Front Springs, JKS ACOS, Rough Country Drop Brackets, WJ lowers Rear - Iron Rock Off-Road full length AALs Run Bridgestone Dueler RVTs 265/75/16 on JEEP Rubicon MOABs Have only had minor scrubbing in 2WD or my current 4WD configuration.

Pete, After like the 10 attempt... I AM BACK! Thanks, Scott

email sent

For my 2WD --> 4WD conversion I went with www.torqueconverter1.com Happy with the customer service, price and warranty.

OP check out the FSJ Forums or the CJ Forum on jeepforum.com/forum/f8/ Tons of information regarding Prestolite, Duraspark and converting what you may or may not have distributor-wise into electronic. My early menage 360 V8 for my 75/81 CJ5 actually has a GM points distributor in it.

Volvo Wagon License Plate Bracket Mounts up extremely easily to the factory no bumper location. Think mine cost me $2 at the local Pull-A-Part

Just have to continue to research/decide. Are you planning to go 4WD in future? 4l80e seems to be the one that I have read the most about. My thought would be for simplicity TH400 which was behind the 6.5 in the M1008/9 CUCV. Not torque monsters but a proven transmission with tons of options/parts/support. Clarification...no expert here but my other project is my 81' CJ5 currently 360 V8 3spd. My old knees are not sure they can take the 3spd so have picked up a TF999 and am now planning what JEEP never offered. Have also had to jump into a full rebuild of the 360 and well since jumping in so deep have researched much more than necessary. Meaning 4BT, LS..much more than necessary. Research/Dreaming one in the same sometimes.

Found this thread while researching....http://comancheclub....gth#entry453374. My cables were different by several inches. My personal "research" indicates it made a difference. Had no passing gear. TONS of good information in this thread as well http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1053970

The column shifter lever at the transmission is almost perfectly straight where the floor console shifter lever is bent/curved. It was very obvious and I felt sick to my stomach when I realized by error. 8) Kick down cable length is different RENIX -> HO. Shifting did not feel "correct". Never felt the "kick down" to passing gear. Found this thread while researching....http://comancheclub.com/topic/44473-kickdown-cable-adjustment-question/?hl=cable+length&do=findComment&comment=453374 MY OCDness of not throwing anything old away until all the bugs have been worked out saved me. Pulled the old cable off and installed. MUCH better shifting. The installation is not overly difficult but would have been a breeze prior to the transmission installation.

It can be done via the connectors to the TCU. http://comancheclub.com/topic/34253-aw4-transmission-computer-testing/ http://mikestrawbridge.com/blog/2011/09/aw4-troubleshooting/

Just finished up my 2WD to 4WD conversion. Plan, Plan, Plan. My truck is an 89', 4.0L, Auto., 3.5" Lift Many parts were purchased well in advance. MANY new parts. IMHO too much work to have a used part fail and make the project back-slide so I completely agree with the positions stated above. My swap was made difficult by several decisions on my part. These hick-ups/over-sights/screw-ups/personal preferences were. All added some time of costs. Parts or Time or Just Swearing, Lots of Swearing. (1) Picked the 242J wanted full-time 4WD (1b) The 242J is longer than the 231 driveshaft had to be SHORTENED. Extra co$t. (2) Decided to fully re-build the D30 front AND upgrade to WJ knuckles/brakes. ( 4 piston Akebono calipers and big rotors ). Extra Part$. (3) Forgot to research the speedo cable issue. Factory 2WD cable does not have the needed length. Duh (Crown 53005084 ) (4) Chose to used non-factory shifter linkage for transfer case ( Boostwerks was my choice). Kept me from drilling up my floorboard. (5) Lots of misinformation (IMO) regarding shifters and gates 231 vs 242. And even though my the swap parts I bought were complete the transfer case shifter/bezel was for a 97+. (6) Column shifted automatics have a different shifter arm than console shifted automatics Made worse when it was discovered the shifter arm rod end had been snapped off by the PO and NOT knowing/noticing this difference before welding on the wrong arm sucks, big time. (7) After the above, was more committed to sticking with column shifted auto. Obtaining the mini console only for the transfer-case shifter, in factory grey, well it was expen$ive. And the failure of altering the carpet opening correctly was also all on me. Hopefully, you can avoid many of these. And I am a bit OCD. Not as bad as others but more-so than many. In the end happy with the conversion.

Are you referring to the DASH indicator? Just completed my own 2WD-4WD conversion (AW4/242J) and so far my dash indicator works in the limited position(s) that it has been tried. Not sure I have ALL the indicators. The #1 desire for my trail/bad weather pick of the 242J was Full-Time 4WD. And, maybe just way too lucky, my gauge cluster has a Full-Time indicator which worked when the selector was placed in the correct position. My gauge cluster was swapped early to obtain full gauges/tach and that may be the difference.

Great review Don. Just finished up my 2WD->4WD conversion including all completely new steering (stock) and WJ Knuckles & Brakes. Have seen/considered this addition several times as well. Appreciate the review/insight!

Completely agree with ^^^^^^ Crash Lube Locker!

All the differences covered here. http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1053970 The shift levers are different between the XJ ( console ) vs your MJ ( column ). You will need to move the lever over if you are keeping the column shift. Be careful and hit the nut hold on the lever with some PB Blaster or your penetrant of choice before attempting to remove said nut. The end of the shaft where the lever attaches is known to snap off with few option for repair ( the shaft runs completely through the transmission).

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1053970

What color are you looking for?

http://www.currieenterprises.com/CE-9031C

It really depends on your area and what you intend to do long term and short term. Here in Atlanta-Cali there are emissions based on age. But even after the vehicle is exempt most muffler shops around me will not even touch a vehicle that has had the catalytic converter removed. Which can make getting a new setup installed on a vehicle after it has been "non-emissions required" altered a PITA. They are too paranoid that they are being setup for fines/being shut-down. It can get even more fun if someone in a non-emissions county alters prior to the official time that the rest of the area is required to deal with. Say...removing catalytic converts on a 2001 XJ to make it "sound n" run better". It becomes very difficult based on the above situation to get it straighten out AND Here it is also illegal to sell a vehicle in/into an emissions requiring county knowing it will not pass (visual or sniffer or both doesn't matter ). The true enthusiast has to pay attention and know how the rules work and how to get stuff done if not doing it themselves. If the thought of selling is even slightly possible ( my latest "project" is vehicle #47 ) and it originally came with a catalytic converter it get another. Normally a MagnaFlow unit. Cheap, performance designed and Summit carries them so it is usually, order one day, arrives the next by lunch.

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1053970

This was the knob that was my replacement. Dorman HELP! 76935 Gear Shift Knob and Bushing https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000COBC9C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Used Gorilla glue and duct tape to hold it in place overnight. Three years and still looks new.

Can positively confirm. The 2.5 overflow fits with the 4.0 airbox.