ScottJeep

Morris4x4.com Coolant Bottle (Crown) 52003213 $16.99 Coolant Bottle Cap (Crown) 52079331 $2.79

Terrific build. Well deserved.

Agree with Hornbrod...Pike that is one slick way to convert. Very neat. Hospital clean engine compartment there! Added to want/need to do list. cruiser.... send that thing back... they show a lifetime warranty.

KEEP IT ! ! !

OK.... The National 473212 is the inner. Kept/marked one of those boxes. The Centrics 41764003 indeed are the outers I still have the two of those I ordered before the bearing set which came with another set. The bearing, race, seal and retainer where .... Crown Automotive 83501451 Rear Axle Bearing and Retainer Kit Ordered from Amazon. Hope this helps.

OK... thought I had pictures of the boxes.... this is what is in my RockAuto recent history. Sorry alot has been ordered lately.... CENTRIC 41764003 Centric Premium Oil & Grease Seal Rear Outer; Dana 35 Rear Axle NATIONAL 473212 [Wholesaler Closeout -- 30 Day Warranty] Rear Inner; Spicer 35 In my case I ended up I think with two sets of the outer seals. Because the out bearing comes as a kit and includes the bearing, race, seal and retainer. Here are some pictures and will give you some numbers for cross reference. That inner is fun to remove....sometimes. Going out to the garage to try to find the bearing set part number. For me I paid $35 per axle to have the old ones cut off and the new ones pressed on. All the machine shops were the same. Which was good cause I have one guy very close to my work and he is awesome. Don't like to pick about price but always call around.

All in know is that those warning modules are a BIG PITA to remove! The BLUE ones with the separate lead connection are nice ( Wagoneers ) but very hard to get up in there to them in the JY.

My non-clip was $35 (per axle shaft ) at most machine shops to remove to old and press on the new. The inner seal can be tricky. Nothing special other than a good seal puller. C-Clip and 8.25 is slide hammer to pop out the outer bearing and the outer seal out.

Had a similar issue. Used AC duct sealing tape. The stuff that is metal with super sticky glue. Was able to make a couple of fan folds and then tape it on. Good Luck.

WOW... somehow I've never seen this truck before... makes me miss my white XJ badly. Great choice for MJOTM!

Carpet http://www.accmats.com/ Have used a couple of times with great success. For the sound proofing opening myself to criticism but..... Three of my projects have used Quick Roof but I've found it is not easy to locate the non-smelly version locally anymore. My last batch was purchased via the internet.

http://www.clipsandfasteners.com/v/vspfiles/assets/images/auveco_catalog478.pdf

Currently installed in my MJ are Eliminator buckets but the full console purchased with the seats is just sitting. It's the column shift that keeps the console un-installed. It is just a personal preference for me. Others have done it but just not my choice. But would like to have a place for my "truck junk" and cup holder would be nice. And yes even have the cup holder option thing supplied with my factory console and it has not gotten me to install it. Actually have considered the Tuffy locking center console. Had one in a prior 90 Jeep YJ. Good quality product. Some of the newer model are pretty cool looking but smaller like what is in the newer Wranglers. Would probably "alter" the cup holders to hold bigger stuff. Use large cycling and Nalgene bottle mostly. Need to stubble across one on CL and get it on the cheap.

https://greenville.craigslist.org/pts/5206607224.html

Torn on this one...there is so little to merge the two. All the manufac. just want to sell you new stuff. Leaning waaay towards mik666 and hornbrod. Great mix on both their trucks! With my old skool grill guard and roll bar I have already wasted $30 on some rectangle lights that are just too small. Really like the size of those mik666 has on the front for my roll-bar. There is a guy around the corner from my office that has a pretty mint early Dakota and has some about that size on it's factory roll bar. Think they are CIBIE. My other choice was 6" rounds. Two up top on the roll-bar, two on the grill guard.

OK... well this should really be renamed WJ Knuckle/Brake Upgrade (2WD) so any moderator that wants to enact their abilities should go for it. Have not forgotten this one just building parts. That and family responsibilities always eat into the Jeep funds. Anywho... Picked up another set of Akebono calipers and cleaned up the knuckles for epoxy coating and well yeah I painted the calipers red. Found the Mustang Gun Metal Grey but I am too damn cheap to send $70 on caliper paint. Don't hate the painter just the color, if you wish. Pictures always make the delay more justifiable. Current acquired new parts include: Wagner Pads (they were on sale! at RockAuto ) Raybestos Rotors ( yeah.... not happy about that last text but it is what it is anymore....welcome to the global market place) And I am taking a new path with the ball joints... Going to run Mevotech. Here are the WJ/XJ Uppers Was also already planning on installing the WJ lowers I picked up So remaining new parts to obtain are: Upper Control Arms and new axle side bushing Lower Ball Joints Tie Rod & Drag Link AND the associated End Links Plan to give Iron Rock Off-Road a call about what they can offer. Should be a huge difference up front. Luckily my power steering up is new. More to come....

This is what I have...use... Should have another set. $10.00 for a pair shipped.

Having done this using a 96' unit on my 89' earlier this summer.... the booster arm/rod modification for the brake light switch where the biggest PITA. With average tools ( deep well, swivel, extended length extension) the getting out and back should not be big deal. Also the newer XJ units cannot be used as the booster arm/rod is significantly longer. (it looked so new... I was blinded by beauty but stupid to the obvious...luckily was able to sell on eBay.)

Well earned. Both by owner and truck!

The glory of 2WD....which I guess makes a difference in some cases.

Sound like time for a Pull-A-Part research/education trip. Did so to re-learn my own steering column tricks/steps gotcha before tearing mine apart. One of my buddies frowns on me but I'm not there intentionally breaking anything I am making sure that I can drive to work the next day. They got their $1 to let me on the yard.

OK.... to add/contribute/join-in... Front - 2" Rusty's Springs, JKS ACOS and Rough Country Control Arm Drops, Rough Country Gas Shocks Rear - IRO AAL and Rough Country Gas Shocks Wheels/Tires - 265/75R/16 Bridgestone Dueler RVTs on MOABS Zero rubbing with factory flares

OK... pretty much ended up bathed in brake fluid but in the end... brakes! Still need to fully re-adjust the rear shoes. AND Thinking of just making a new bracket for the LSV arm or drilling a new hole, countersinking the bolt head and calling it done. Now to the prepping for the WJ Akebono front brakes and all that fun. Thanks for the help!!

Eagle, I did not do anything other than a normal bleeding... Will search next for the bypass procedure that I am guessing is here someplace....apologies The arm is "slightly" non-horizontal....slightly towards the bed. Don, That thing rotates....360 ( did I break it?) without any "force" to make do so at all. Set the shoes just slightly dragging. Since they were new, expected that after a couple of days use and using the new parking brake cables they would need another adjust.

I've been reading an attempting to absorb as much as possible.. ( not easy normally plus a day of helping those much worse than me at work and I might as well be drunk ( support engineer for everything you can imagine)). After fully rebuilding my new to me Dana 35 (for the 4.11 ratio) complete brakes..new shoes, springs, cylinders, drums checked resurfaced.new parking brake cables. ..new bearings seals..... (it's pretty) The idea was a one day swap. Was successful but after bleeding... I use a Motive bleeding unit since I have to do everything by myself or it doesn't get done.... ANYWAY.... Have brakes but MUCH less than before. Now I have not gone back and adjust more but man I was hoping for something before moving to my WJ front brake fun. My only thought is the rear LSV. There is zero resistance if you attempt to spin the arm either way.