Motion Offroad

Yes. We've sold several sets to MJ guys and they work fine. We've even installed a set locally on a MJ. I'll see if we can scrounge up some pics of them installed on a MJ.

Yes

It's going to be VERY hard to get ~4" of lift with SOA using MJ leafs. You'll have to use FSJ leafs or a Hybrid XJ/MJ pack (MJ main with XJ others). Even with a 2WD MJ pack your going to net 5"+ of lift. As Marcel mentioned, using XJ shackle's don't work very well. The only way would be if you had a boomerang style shackle and the only one's I know of are JKS and RE, with the JKS one's giving about 1" of lift over the factory MJ shackles. TNT customs use to make one that would be stock height (MJ) but I don't believe they are producing shackles anymore (they now use JKS one's in their kits). You also have to remember that SOA height will greatly vary on the axle itself (size of the tubes) as well as what set of perches you use. A note on the steering. Just because you "can" doesn't mean it's correct. At 6.5" of lift you really should address the steering issues using the factory inverted Y setup. I can stack 2 sets of 2" coil spacers to get a 4" front lift, but that doesn't mean it's the best thing to do. Going SOA in the rear using a factory MJ pack (both 2WD or 4WD) you'll get it to look "level" with a 6.5" front coil. If you like the raked look a 4.5" coil will work but most likely you'll be "butt-high" (can show you a pic of our MJ with SOA rear and 4.5" RE front coils if you'd like). In reference to rear shock lengths. I'm one that would rather run my lower shock mounts on the bottom so I can run a longer travel rear shock. I'd gladly give up 2" of ground clearance close to the tires to be able to run a 4-5" longer travel shock. We run a 12" travel shock in the rear setup this way (photo below). Shock length EXT/COL will depend on how you have your lower shock mounts setup. Here is a photo of our wheeling MJ. Running an AMC20 axle with Rockcrusher perches on factory 4WD MJ packs.

The dealership can do it, however you need to get an exemption from the NHTSA. Their is a form you have to get certified from the NHTSA prior to taking it to the dealership for them to even touch it (at least here). You can also just pull the fuses. They are under the large yellow "cap" in the fuse box. There are several fuses depending on if you have the side impact seat airbags or not. I "think" that if you pull the fuses that the light may still show on the dash. The only way I know to get rid of the light on the dash/center console is to take it to the dealer. Only reason we know any of this is because we had an airbag go off on us while wheeling. We looked for a way to disable them while offroad and this is what we came up with. Being it's a postal JK you may be able to talk your dealer into doing it without the NHTSA form.

3.75" - 4.00" on a 8" wide rim with 12.5" wide tires.

They are Omix-Ada surplus from the "crate XJ's" that were found that Omix purchased several years back. They are the 27 spline versions with the perches setup for the XJ.

It depends on how you have your shock mounts setup on the axle side. A lot of guys "think" they have to move them up for ground clearance. Personally we feel that what you loose in ground clearance (very minimal) you'll gain in shock length travel. I'll gladly give up 2" of ground clearance for an extra 5-6" in travel. With that being said; running the shock mounts in the factory position (under axle) you'll want a shock in the range of 17"C/29"E.

Way to long! You want something in the neighborhood of 15"C/25"E.

All XJ's 89-95 with ABS have 5-297x u-joints, all XJ's 95+ have 5-297x u-joints.

I'd guess it's Protekto-Trim.

You do realize those are for a 16.5" rim correct?

Same issue when we converted to LED tails on our '89 XJ. You'll need to get a electronic flasher. From AutoZone part number EL12 (2 prong) works fine in our application and corrected the issue. Make sure you look to see what flasher you have (2 prong or 3 prong).

You can just move the hard-line mount down.

http://www.greatlakesxj.com/tech/door_hinge_repair.pdf

That is the XJ REAR Addco bar (#420).

MJ is SUA from the factory. MJ rear leafs are a different length (longer) as well as a different arch. MJ rear shackle's are different (longer). MJ perch width on axle is at different width. MJ shocks mount from the axle plate and not from the axle itself like the XJ's.

87-89 with factory installed tow-package often had them. Our '89 (with factory tow option) had a D44 from the factory.

We currently have a set in stock - http://motionoffroad.com/catalog/index. ... ucts_id=39

Full Traction and Rock Krawler (triple threat) both make a 4-link setup that will work on the MJ's.

OP asked about what it would take to fit a set of 33's with NO TRIMMING. Somone prior said that 33's with 3.5" of lift required major trimming. We were simply showing that it could be done with minimal trimming (no fender cutting) at 3.5" of lift to fit a set of 33's.

33's on RE 3.5" lift with no trimming in the rear and very minimal in the front;

Go Berserk

If you go with the front hitch I'd recommend the Draw-Tite over the Hidden Hitch one. The Draw-Tite sits much higher up. It would require trimming of the air-dam though if you still have one. Here is another option that quite a bit cheaper than the Detour's setup. You can run your factory bumper with it as well.

LCA = Lower Control Arm UCA = Upper Control Arm Stock LCA - 15¾" UCA - 15" 2" LCA - 16" UCA - 15" 3" LCA - 16" UCA - 15" 4" LCA - 16 3/8" UCA - 15" 5" LCA - 16 5/8" UCA - 15¼" 6" LCA - 17" UCA - 15½" 7" LCA - 17 3/8" UCA - 15¾" 8" LCA - 17¾" UCA - 16" 9" LCA - 18¼" UCA - 16¼" 10" LCA - 18¾" UCA - 17" For 1/2" lifts take the difference from the one above and below. So for example a 4.5" lift would be LCA - 16.5" and the UCA - 15".