Motion Offroad

They will interchange. There is no difference in the spiders between the c-clip and non c-clip axle. The only difference in the spiders on the D35 is from the case size. 1994+ uses the 1.560" bore case and 1993-1986 uses the 1.625" bore case. So as long as your using the spiders in the same case size they will interchange.

Only "cheap" ones that are worth anything in my opinion are Spicers. Hard to pickup locally anymore as the "big name" chains no longer carry Spicer. We have guys driving an hour or more to our shop to pick them up all the time as we seem to be the only place around here that stocks them. Ordering online may be the best bet; what you'd pay in tax most of the time covers shipping cost.

OME is the only company that I am aware of that makes a 1.5-2.5" lift coil. I know Moog makes a HD coil that may give you a little lift, but I don't know if it'll give you a full 2" or not. -Adam

You know Al huh, how's he doing?

Thanks again Tom! :cheers:

Yes. The flares have a mounting system that you install to the fender, than the flare will simply "pop" onto it. Here is a photo of the mounting setup that is hidden under the flare. It may give you a better idea of the amount being trimmed. Let us know if we can be of any further help.

Neutral Safety Switch (NSS). Try putting it into (N) and see if she'll start. If so your NSS is bad and will need either cleaned and/or replaced.

??? Ironman 1.25" without ends is $99.50 for XJ Rock Kralwer 1.25" without ends (RK02661XJ) is $99.00 (normal retail) for XJ

Yes, the truth of the matter is you can have any shape shackle you'd like and it doesn't make a bit of difference between mounting point to mounting point. It can be straight, boomerang, S shaped, or shaped like a lighting bolt. The only thing that matters is the angle from mounting hole to mounting hole. The rest is all about packaging and preventing "shackle inversion" which was stated originally (we'll get into that in a minute). Here's some pics to illustrate what I'm talking about. The last image is them all overlaid. The angle of the shackle however, can soften or stiffen the spring's normal rate. You can find the angle of a shackle by drawing a line through the middle of both spring mounting eyes, and a line through the shackle pivots. Then find the angle made by the two lines. You can increase the effective rate of a leaf spring by decreasing the shackle angle. An increase in shackle angle will produce a decrease in the effective leaf spring rate of a leaf spring. Here's 4 more images of the same spring in a compressed state. The last one is them all overlaid. This brings us to "shackle inversion". Shackle inversion is when the leaf spring droops past it's maximum point. This happens when the axle is fully drooped out and something hits the shackle (or leaf, or axle attached to the shackle) forcing it to compress in the opposite direction. It usually leads to a bent or broken leaf spring, and most people choose a "boomerang" style shackle to avoid this. Why do I think a boomerang shackle will ride better on the MJ's? As the suspension travels while your driving the vehicle, and due to the length of the MJ shackle, the length of the leaf spring, and the shackle angle you are often at the "shackle inversion" point (or close to it). A boomerang shackle will keep the leaf and shackle angle towards the rear. If the factory shackle is always close to the shackle inversion point during suspension travel the ride will greatly be effected. Really the only thing it has going for it is that it's SOA from the factory; thus why I believe more people do not have problems with shackle inversion. Switch it to SOA and you'll see all kinds of people complaining about shackle inversion with the factory shackles/leafs on the MJ. Add in the fact that our trucks don't weigh much in the rear and you'll be fighting shackle inversion a lot (especially if you offroad your MJ). *all pics were made by 87jeepwrangler over on the jeepsunlimited forum*

Not if you get the "thick" gears. I'm not aware of any "thick" D30 Reverse-Cut gears in the 4.10 ratio (only 4.56). Maybe they are available now but last time we looked for a set nobody was making them that we are aware of. -Adam

Yes you will need a new carrier as well to run 4.10 gears. The break point for the D30 is 3.73. -Adam

HP and LP gears are not interchangeable. LP's use standard-cut gears. HP's use reverse-cut gears. The only thing of value on the TJ D30 is maybe the shafts for the other axle the OP says he has. -Adam

For a SOA in the rear of a MJ with shock mounts in factory location you'll need the following; Extended ~30" | Collapsed ~17"| Travel ~12"-13" These measurements are aprox (~) for a 6.5" lift height, and we advise you measure your application to confirm. -Adam

Down and back is the correct way. 2nd pic down shows how to set them for what tooth count you have. -Adam

Sure it was a WJ? Reason asked is because those arms are RE arms, but RE has never made anything for the WJ over the 2" budget boost (no coil and/or arm lifts). So with that being said those arms have to be the TJ/XJ/MJ/ZJ arms. Thus meaning they will bolt up as they are RE3715 (lowers) and RE3780 (uppers). WJ arms are typically different than the TJ/ZJ/XJ/MJ arms are so I'm curious as to how they fit them in (WJ control arm brackets are wider and there is a large gap when using the smaller bushing TJ/ZJ/XJ/MJ arms). WJ trackbars will not work on the XJ/MJ. Get the part #'s off the OME shocks and I can tell you for what lift they are for. They "should" bolt up depending on lift height. WJ coils will not work on the XJ/MJ.

Here is the Mean Green dual battery setup (now discontinued); but gives you an idea...

:thumbsup:

MJ Bilstein Shocks

Ok found some time to take a few pics. We ended up removing the factory flare for you guys to get some better pics. One thing to note with the photo's is that we have not removed any additional sheet metal for install, so we could only get them up so close for photo's. For install you'll be required to trim sheet metal and they will fit flush. I've included 3 photo's. One for the front where it meets the body line, one for the rear where it meets the body line, and overall opening. I know it's kinda hard to see since the MJ is white, but the body line/BW flare match up perfectly. Overall size is about the same as the factory flares. You'll simply gain the clearance due to the sheet metal being removed. I don't see them sitting much higher (1/4" max) that the factory flares do. Overall looks to be essentially a perfect fit. We do sell just the fronts or just the rears (as well as the full package) for anyone interested. Hope that helps! -Adam REAR FRONT OVERALL

Ok guys here is the deal - I have a set of flat flares on the shelf I'm willing to pull out of the box to show on the side of a MJ. The issue is that we do not currently have a MJ without flares on it here. Sorry but we are not going to rip the flares off for you (even though we love you). So if the BW flare will essentially fit overtop of the factory flare we're good to go. Give us a day or so and we'll report back with pics.

It was featured in JP Map a few years ago. Running a Ford 8" front axle or something crazy....

Are those decals from Spencer @ JS?

SR will ride better, SF will flex better and require more maintenance long-term. We run the SF on our rigs (even daily drivers) and are happy with them. It just comes down to personal preference I guess. Uptravel isn't always everything. Rebecca's XJ here runs 33x12.5 on a RE3.5" kit and with the suspension setup properly she's scoring a 890 on a 30deg. RTI ramp. Once again personal preference; we just like to get the COG as low as possible for a much more stable rig both on & off road. There is a reason why people like the Bilstein 5100's so well... I'd recommend it for the best bang for the buck anyday over anything else. If they are out of your budget than you need to look at shocks that are within in. The main thing to look at is Hydro vs. Nitro. Each have their pros/cons. Nitro's typically are more expensive and for the most part seem to have a better ride quality. You can spend as much as you want on lift components, have the best products on the market, and if you don't have a quality set of shocks it'll still ride like poo. If your wanting to place a larger order best thing is to give us a call as we can typically work with you on shipping as our online system calculates it per-item. Plus we offer a CC discount on most orders via phone as well if you mention it.

YES. RE3720 are SuperRide, RE3715 are SuperFlex. The difference is the bushing on one end. The SR is just a rubber (actually PTMEG now) bushing, and the SR has the RE Flex Joint in it. Depending on what your using your MJ for one may be better than the other. Please do not buy this trackbar. Your better off without a trackbar than this one. The RE1600 is junk and we've seen nothing but problems with it. If you want to run a RE trackbar run the RE1660/RE1665 combo. I'd recommend for the $ to go with the Rock Krawler Bomb-Proof setup. Just a FYI, you don't need 5.5" of lift to fit a 33x10.5 without trimming on the MJ's. We fit 33x12.5 on XJ/MJ's all day without trimming with only 3.5-4" of lift.

We sell the snot out of these and everyone seems to love them. We run them on our own rigs upto the 35" size (to bad they don't make them in 37" or we'd be running those as well!). Can't beat the price and performance of them.