FxRacing282

:bowdown: FIREFOX

no forums? :mad:

agreed. spools are cheap and efficient.

last year i found an MJ diesel with a AMC20. i never seen that rear end before. so I'm gonna agree with just baout everbody on here. when you rebuilt the rear end. the truck feels better when you drive it. it dosent jerk when you go from coasting to acceleration, its just better. plus there is a fairly good chance its not going to fail for a while.

well Chico, 210 is normal operating temp. you may already know this but a 195 t-stat will start to open at 195 and be fully open around 208-210. 215 is nothing to worry about. and when the t-stat is fully open the fan should be on. so to me, everything sounds fine. but I'm probabally missing something?

I'm gonna do a confederate flag for the hearliner or the roof of my truck. ive been trying to decide for like 8 months now. maybe ill do both

i alawys look for the lsd unit when i pull a cover off. buy the stuff when you get the oil and if you don't need it bring it with you next time you get parts.

:beerhead:

my sbc loves the platinum plus plugs. they work nicely and i have them just a few thousands bigger then spec. they got a warranty on em and they guarantee a performance gain so whatever. ive only heard bad about ac delco so your a first in my book

do you have one of those cool valves that block the water from entering the cab when the heater is off? if so was it factory? because if you have it and its not a factory option that may be why you are running hot. but 210 is a good OP. 240 is when you turn the engine off. 230 is hot. now if you put a 180 in and its operating at 195-210 then leave it in. have you checked the temp with another temp guage? its possibly the one you have is faulty or innacurate

its fairly easy. undo the hose or line the connects to it from inside the engine housing along with the resivoir. then disconnect the two bolts or however many it is from the fire wall, then disocnnect it from the pedal. put new one it. probabally gonna have to flush from the slave FYI. be carefull with the fittings. i went to change my slave and the fitting was seized and nothing would take it off. so i figured oh no ill spend $3 and get a new line. well the other side was gnarly too. pb blast it! it works i swear. bleed it like you would a caliper but the more you bleed it the better the pedal will feel. make sure you bleed it until the pedal goes ALL THE WAY BACK UP. or else youll find yourself grinding gears

long arm lift kits are a lot of work but they are worth it. with a long arm you can have a ton mare suspension travel. the longer arms allow the tires to go into the wheel wells and away from the truck a lot more. basically you can crawl over stuff instead of plowing it. bigger axles, maybe a little bit of turbo-action? lift kit, armor cool bumpers like pete has. i got 35's on my truck and honestly i don't need em. my friends run 33's and they get through the mud

I think your comments relate to the eearly NWC ( Non World Class) transmissions, they were used until the mid to late eightys. the NWC treanmissions were still used, but in the high performance cars they went with the WC transmissions. Here is a link to find out what kind of trans you might have and which vehicle it was used in http://www.britishv8.org/Articles/Borg-Warner-T5-ID-Tags.htm actually, if i did not need a scattershield, i would go with a NV 3550. great trans, and the 2wd units do not go for that much money. plus since it came in the cherokee, it goes right into a MJ. Problem is that you cannit get a scattershield for it. I think that you're mistaken about the quality of the T5 transmission. it is in the same class as the AX5, and would not hold up behind a 4.0 of any sort...hence the reason that T5's were the SUBSTITUTE for the AX5 when the factory ran short. you want a good, tested, solid, and proven 5 speed behind the 4.0? go with the AX15 and you will have no issues. please tell me why Chevrolet used them for YEARS behind a 305SBC in a camaro? and why did Ford use them in the Mustang?

good decision :cheers:

well. ive heard mixed things. gotta weld it the right way or the gears snap. can't get gears too hot but then they may break. obviously we all know that your gonna have a great time in the snow. the burnouts are gonna be killer... if you can spin em both. now the worst thing ive heard about doing it is the slag from the welder getting on the inside of the diff and eating bearings. also it is a big strain on the axle's and the housing and everything inside of there. ohhhh tires will wear faster. is it worth it? on a DD, no anything else? id say so

you don't need an NSS as its in the tranny. but instead just have the two wires that complete the loop always connected so it will start. i have a clutch pedal assembly, master and slave for a 3rd gen camaro hanging around you can have for 20 plus postage. but i think if you went to the salvage yard you could find a assembly out of a comanche. not sure what your gonna do about slave cylinder though. maybe a pressure fitting connecting the slave for the new tranny to the master? or maybe brake line?

right well its the stops signs, lights passing people on and off the throttle that kill your mileage. drive it like a grandma and see how it is. you will most likely notice a big difference unless you drive like this already. which i hope you don't, cause i hate being behind slow drivers

more or less a open loop. its actually cold start mode. until the O2 sensors heat up and are at operating temp which is like 600 degrees. but really did you know that a vehicle will only get 1/3 the gas mileage when you drive it cold? 1/3 of the gas goes into the cylinder, 1/3 goes out the exhaust valve and the other third gets burnt. honestly i wouldn't worry about it. but i do recommend letting your truck warm up for a few

agreed

with over 240 on the clock id say thats reasonable. we have no real idea of any previous owners driving habits. and by any chance do you drive spirited? cause that makes a BIG difference in a truck

id turn it over and smell for un burnt fuel. if its there then X4 on the CPS

the end of the sway bars wouldnt be flush with the bushings. when the truck is still.

why would someone make an invisible bumper but not the bumper brackets?? it just dosent make any sense :nuts:

man i hate that feeling

oh, nope sorry