novawingnut

Check it...http://www.ironman4x4fab.com/JEEP_MJ_Shackles/MJ_FRLS%281%29.html This company had them posted on eBay and his own website. I've been searching for quite awhile and this was the most promising thing I could could find without messing with my leaf springs (which are in quite good original condition and I don't want to alter them)...don't know if anyone has dealt with this company but if so pipe up - am curious to know as well 8)

Internal boot: 87-01 Jeep® Vehicles with AX-5 & AX-15 5 Speed Transmission http://www.quadratec.com/products/52109_02.htm

Paul - it's packed & ready to go - not sure if you got my message/post, let me know if you still want it. THANKS

Hey Paul - I didn't want to split the set but, do these look right? They both have a little green paint on them (should polish right off) No dings, dents or damage. I was going to save them for my '88, but you know what they say about trying to polish a 'turd... me --> :nuts: If these look right, shoot me a PM - thanks

I was searching for a replacement dust boot for my '88 5-speed as well...a friend of mine sent me the link below from Quadratec, said it worked perfectly BUT he has a stock '92 MJ so I can only assume his truck has one of the later AX transmissions. If you have an '88 5-speed then I'm assuming you have the same boat anchor Peugeot BA-10, so no guarantee it will work but I'm going to pick the internal one up anyway before I put the new carpeting down, presumably better than nothing...good luck. Internal boot: 87-01 Jeep® Vehicles with AX-5 & AX-15 5 Speed Transmission http://www.quadratec.com/products/52109_02.htm Console boot: Cherokee 1987-2001 http://www.jeepsareus.com/p/CHEROKEE/lv27.html

Hey - I emailed you through Craigslist, still have some of these parts you are looking for if you still want them ~

Gotcha - that makes sense. I have never seen a 97-98 interior, or at least never noticed that power windows combined with window cranks. Were you able to obtain the factory wiring to make the power mirror conversion on you MJ work or did you swap the entire wiring harness? I'm sitting on a '99 XJ parts truck with a driveline conversion in mind for my '88 MJ, but have inclination to swap in the XJ interior as well...have been looking for info and people who have done these conversions, but after reading Project Onyx I was ready to go back to building Novas! Any chance you documented your converstion on the site or can tell me (in a nutshell) what it took to do the conversion and how long? Did you swap EVERYTHING interior included or did you keep your interior stock and run the wiring harnesses to where they needed to be? And how did you make the gas tank set-up work? did you use the comanche gas tank with a different fuel sending unit/pick-up or were you able to get the system to work properly while keeping the stock tank? Any info would help ~ thanks! That switch is for NON Power windows and ONLY power Mirrors and it is still attached to the drivers door for anything 97-01 but I have yet to see anything 00-01 without power windows... MY MJ conversion has power mirrors ONLY and I have this switch you listed from Ebay...

I've been looking as well and noticed that there are several switches on eBay that are noted as coming from 97-98 Xj's and they are NOT integrated into the door switch panel, they are separate units... so the earlier ones were console mounted?? Anyone have a picture of where? I'd use the console mounted one but don't know where the factory mounting location is... :dunno: check out ebay item number: 400106355572

First off.........The '88 Renix system can not really be "scanned" and a timing light will only get you "close" to the correct timing. The actual timing is controlled by the ECU. But.......with your "check" of the timing, and "Jumping around" sure make it sound like the timing chain is shot, jumped a tooth or stretched out of specs. If the timing is off, that would cause your lost of power, no advance on the timing, and cause the unburnt fuel to end up in your cat, causing 'that' problem. A bad timing chain will let the engine fire up, after alot of cranking, idle, but total lack of power under a load. With all the parts you tossed in there so far, you might as well change out the timing chain and gears. Just wondering..........How many miles you have on this '88???? If you need to "borrow" a '88, 4.0, manual, ECU, just ask, I've got a couple to loan out :D Hey stranger! Engine was rebuilt prior to my ownership, approximate mileage is about 70k. I have actually had excellent luck in the past scanning my previous plow truck ('88 Pioneer) - it pulled the codes right away...but with my Comanche the system specs are much more vague though and I'm not getting codes, just the data while it's running (I am waiting to hear back from my friend that I borrowed the scan tool from since he worked for Chrysler for a decade back in the 90's...hoping he can give some insight as well). One of the things I was watching on the scan tool was the timing advance, as I'm aware it cannot be adjusted...is why I'm thinking it's the ECU. Before I replaced the CPS, I was concerned the timing chain was shot/slipping over teeth, but it started right up *every time* and the "loping" issue didn't start until afterward when the new distributor & CPS were in...so if the timing was off before and after, then why 2 different sets symptoms? With the new CPS in, it accelerates sooo smoothly, but the idle lopes...before the idle was ok but nothing close to smooth acceleration, just bogging. But either way the fuel ending up in the cat is still the main problem :dunno: So now I have power, but it's loping and still dumping fuel. I'm heading over shortly to recheck the timing with a light, and would like to try a donor ECU and different wiring harness before I tear it down and replace the timing chain and gears. I should have emailed you! I knew you'd probably have one (or more) spare ECU units :shake: ~ got that wiring harness as well? I can pull the one down here but if you have one laying around that was from a standard... will post the timing results...thanks again :bowdown:

Hey Eagle =) I will 'fess to be quite dyslexic, but if I'm running lean then the ECM is sending instructions to add fuel to the mix, no? Either way, hilarity has *absolutely* ensued and it happened very suddenly, was a split-second change and whatever it was it was catastrophic, so I'm inclined to think if it had been a loose manifold or a bad gasket that it would have happened a bit more slowly over time. (I do recall a blown exhaust manifold on my old '89 Cherokee and it was very obvious sound-wise but did not effect the way the vehicle ran, and I drove it like that for a few months.) I didn't specifically check the manifold or gaskets, but will do. If all is tight and in place, any other thoughts other than a wiring issue or possibly a bad ECM (beyond what has already been replaced/checked) that would cause enough fuel to be getting dumped that it would light up the cat?

The 89 ECU from the donor will work IF everything matches your 88; i.e. engine, tranny, and the 89 donor does not have the factory security system. This should be the next thing you should do before anything else. BTW, is your timing still jumping around using the timing light? Hiya, Only thing that doesn't match is the trans...the Limited donor has an automatic trans and I have a 5-speed BA-10 (haven't ever seen a Limited standard...assumed they were all automatics?) *shrug* Don't know if the donor has the factory security system but can find out. So no good on the ECU but is the wiring harness to the sensors & injectors the same? I didn't get to recheck the timing as the rain finally started coming down in buckets and I'm working outside, so won't be able to recheck until tomm (first on the list to do). We had chalked the timing mark, so I pulled the cap off and manually rotated the crank around to confirm the rotor was at the first cylinder (again), and it was slightly off. I actually put the old distributor back in (since I hadn't turned the core in yet) to see if there was any difference, and altho it lined up more accurately, it ran exactly the same as with the new one. I did pull the timing light out but was soaked by then. Will do first thing. Thanks for the info =)

Having serious problems w/ my '88 4.0L 5-speed... :help: Traveling along @ 60mph and suddenly lost power...started running extremely lean, bogging out, couldn't go faster than about 10mph in 1st gear as I limped home. Realized the catalytic converter was glowing red, presumably running extremely lean due to symptoms...managed to get home and been going through it ever since with no definitive answer as to what is going on... Spent the last week searching and replacing & testing (almost) everything except trying another ECU... First thought was the catalytic converter was clogged...it is brand new (as was front pipe and muffler) and first thing I did was pull it (totally clean inside). Ran the truck with the cat disconnected and no change. Only thing it did (close to) right was idle. Replaced the TPS, new O2 sensor, new Coolant temp sensor, MAT (ambient air) sensor tested & good, MAP sensor tested/vacuum tested & good, new fuel filter (fuel pressure also tested @ rail & found to be at spec at idle & during attempted acceleration). Scan tool and timing light both showed timing was off (jumping around). Picked up a rebuilt distributor (and new cap & rotor) and a new crank position sensor. Installed new (rebuilt) distributor and then while replacing the CPS found the wire was laying on the exhaust manifold & melted up a bit, swapped it out and the truck ran 95% better BUT now the idle was off...truck sounded like it was "loping"... checked and cleaned the IAC, and while adjusting the TPS and letting it run, I looked back under to find the new cat glowing red, again. :headpop: Did find some wiring issues while searching and testing and would like to swap in another wiring harness to double-check that is not the issue. Have located a relatively inexpensive parts truck and am looking for interchange info on the wiring harness and ECU. So 2 questions... any ideas? anything, please any suggestions, I'm sure I've left out things out that we checked... :mad: Second, will the engine wiring harness & ECU from an '89 Limited Cherokee interchange? Thanks in advance ~ Catherine :(

In the midst of replacing the idler pulley and serpentine belt, and the collar (#53002915) that acts as the tension adjustment under the power steering pump cracked into three pieces :help: Is this something I can buy or do i need to find a used one??

I had the identical problem on my 2001 XJ...I bought it used at 80k, and the previous owner did a bit of towing with it, and it sagged significantly. I had been warned away from AAL's in the past, so I picked up a set of heavy-duty leaf springs from Quadratec (#56010.11 $75/ea) and installed them with poly bushings. I am very happy with the result...I also had a set of 15x8 Cragars w. Cooper 235's that didn't look right with the sagging rear, and they look superb with the new leafs. I tow with my truck on occasion which is one of the reasons I got the heavy duty springs, and I should raise the front with 1" coil spacers to even out the lift in the back so I'd suggest the medium duty (#56010.10 $65/ea) or stock leafs (#56010.12 $60/ea). Only other suggestion would be to use the stock rubber bushings...I have non-greasable poly bushings and they "sing" a little :shake: Happy to send you pics - shoot me a PM if I can help.

OK - I'll take a look locally and see what I can find first. I just don't want cheapsh*t made-in-china parts...thanks. Got my '88 back on the road today and that speedo cable is OK, works fine (so far) - thanks again.