FxRacing282

used air compressor off ebay $100 or less Mac 612Q 1/2" impact gun $350 (1200 pounds of nut bustin torque) i have one, bought it off the truck and love it. of course it will cost some more monay, but no you can get a lot more tools for cheaper and do more work yourself. you can also contct the tool trucks and see if they have anything used, both the mac and snappy around here have a shelf dedicated to used tools and inventory changes every week. my $0.02

i had a 14 botl sf go on my leaving school. dang that sucked. skipping teeth the whole way home past all the good lookin college girls. i say go for it man! what do you have to loose?

if you can hold your foot to the floor for a while and it does not stall or die then don't even bother pulling your cat off. your just wasting your time. if you run open exhaust your mileage and power will be in the toilet and you will suffer. cat's do not fail often in the sense they clog up, they usually just become inefficient.

a simple google search will confirm

30's and 40's for atleast amonth hear. i don't scrape the frost, i let my vehicles de-frost then drive them. were gettin 2-4" snow tomorrow

tranny is worn out. don't worry about it

if you have time and want to be 110%, calibrate the TPS and then adjust idle. and then replace your vac setup. i really feel bad for you having to live in California and whatnot. here, in new hampshire, only vehicles 96 and newer (OBDII) compliant have to be check for emissions, and the check is just a scan for readiness and if ther are any dtc's (if the mil is on) then you fail, but you have a 60 day grace to fix it. so whats it like not having any guns? or freedoms in that matter?

you could always try thicker oil. general rule of thumb, for every 1k rpm you want 10psi of oil pressure

i always used flathead screw drivers because its wehat i had at the time. take some guitare string and use it as a saw to saw off the silcon glue holding the window to the pinch seam.then start in the CORNER and go to the closest corner. i would porefer to use plastic over metal but if its what you got then don't sweat it. ive done it and it works. remember that glass can flex, but not that much before it cracks. you just have to work your way around starting in one corner and to the closest corner and then across. good luck

sliding it foreward would be a good idea.. if i were you, i would only slide it forward enough to put the shifter where you want it. if you ended up running a SM-465 (4speed with granny as 1st) you can get a 70's shifter which has the bend to bring it toward the rear of the cabin and you could, i guess, slide the engine foreward some. assuming you would be running a carb, how about a small HEI v6? 74-8something i believe. i know you may be used to points seeing as thats what cars had for the first half of your life, but the HEI is awesome. not to make fun of your age or anything don't get me wrong, points are cool and i wish i knew how to properly adjust them. no need for an EGR system, catalyst, A.I.R. system or evaporative system. you can get headers off summit racing and with a little know how and some elbow grease you are well on your way to a dual 2'' exhaust.

i believe its thirty thousandths for allowable vertical movement. some up and down is okay. its the side to side thats bad.

you got 110k on a 10 year old engine. bring it to the dealer and get a new car. I'm only kidding. i 5w30 synthetic is great, it is possible you switched to a 5w20, which is thinner and would weep through seals. I ran syntec blend in my old mud truck because i wanted it to still perform after 3 hours of on the floor mud slinging branch shakin action. i get better everything very impressed with it. put Lucas oil stabilizer in it. we run it at the gargae in the high mileage cars when the oil light comes on at idle, with the stabilizer it goes away. its crazy.

the chevy 4.3 is an incredible engine. its one of the most dependable 6 cyl. out there. and for performance you can easily put in flat top pistons, 1.94/1.60 valves port the heads and an edlebrock 1406 to top it off with a good cam you would be making way more power than just about every 4.0 out there. and vortec motors are awesome. i have lots of expierence with them and they are very reliable. when rubber turns 20 years old, it cracks and falls apart. when a ford turns 5 years old it needs frame work. compare. 4.3's are great and ive talked to people who have done it and love it. and you don't have to worry about overheating the engine either. just my 2 cents

with the key in the off position, turn it to the run or on position, make sure its not the accessories. you should hear some relays click under the dash, every light in the insturment cluster should turn on, abs, srs, oil, coolant, battery, mil ect. if none of that happens, check the ignition fuses. I'm not doubting your wiring, but i have seen the ignition wire chafe and ground out and pop fuses before. if the fuse is good, next check the relay, it should click right when the key is turned on. if it does not then there will be more relays like it on the truck, like the A/C may be the same relay, go ahead and swap it to see if it works, if it does then thats the problem. if the relay is clicking properly then i would say you need an ignition switch.

sounds like an ignition fuse. 2x on fuses. do you have an aftermarket stereo?

you may want to try pulling a plug, its probabally dripping in fuel and there for won't start. it may not be your problem, but it may be. and either way, wet plugs won't fire. you can get the plugs glowing red with a propape or map-gas torch that will work fine as long as you burn alll the fuel out of them. i can't remember if the harmonic has a timing mark on it?? your plug wires arent all criss-crossed are they? if they are get them far apart from eachother.

yeah ive seen people weld bolts. an extension is like $4 at sears. just do it. if it strips, bring it to your local well trusted garage (not pep boys or something cheesy) and have them extract it with the right size extractor. i had this problem but i work at a garage so it was already there. and i wam-bamed it out. i wouldnt reccomend welding a nut cause you can get slag and spit in there. isnt it aluminum anyway?

check the bulbs, then checl for power at the sockets, then check the connector. make sure the brake pedal is depressed too.

last year i broke three u bults so i had some top notch mother truckers made up. 5/8 fine thread with hardware at Rochester Truck Repair. a little pricey but i got the peace of mind i wanted. about $44. they were 3'' ID 16'' long

my friends mj has the same problem. turning the wheels full lock to lock going slow in 2wd helps it pop out. not sure why but it does. sometimes you can stand on it and hit the brakes and it pops out. but thats not a very safe thing for the road

fuse block power acc.

in nh if the vehicle is over 20 years old it does not need a cat.

:rotf:

haha, if there is an arc and any contact cleaner in that cap. i wanna see that. sounds like moisture in the cap. they have a vent don't they? make sure the hose or breather is proper.

warm is good. the gunk flush seemed to work good for my old SBC. although i do NOT find it necessary to run it every third oil change but thats just me. do as you wish. it does work though. warm oil plugs come out of the pan easier... thats half the reason for me anyway. and warm cold thing. you know you drain it and when its dripping you pull the filter slide the new one and put the plug fill up. you got like 95% or more out of the engine. thats what the factory says so chances are its good enough. and don't use fram filters. the sure grip idea is awesome and i wosh every company did it, but quality control is terrible.