FxRacing282

i stand behind you and your funny replies :cheers:

ive always found that rust is pretty stong until you touch it. so i don't touch it until some says that they are scared to drive behind me.

I'm pretty sure it can't. unless its like, "Desert racing it NOT cheap."

yeah its sometimes easier than that even, yet still involves smelling like gear oil. the ring gear will have sets of numbers on it. youll have to spin it most likely to find them. you are looking for the last two sets of numbers. it will be like 41 10 or 42 9. that tells you teeth on ring gear and teeth on pinion gear. divide the two and bamo! ooh. when you pull the cover off, start from the bottom and work your way up. leave that top bolt or to on and then take a screw driver to pull the cover off the diff if it doesnt come off. that way the gear oil comes out a a nice controlled pattern instead of splashing all over you.

2x... if you end up getting an aftermarket O2. then i would recommend a BOSCH sensor. a little pricey but you can count on a good product.

3x on spring over. if you end up doing it and its still too tall in the rear, XJ shackles will fit and are a tad shorter.

yeah well assuming that rust is not an issue. did you pull yours out of the ocean?

yeah when you replace the clutch get some brake parts cleaner or something very bad for your skin and clean the flywheel and pressure plate. and grease or oil or lube will cause a crazy chatter in the clutch when you take off with it. as far as replacing the flywheel goes, if its got blue spots or brown or whatever color bigger than a dime then get a new one. if you question as to weather it needs to be replaced then go to your local mom and pop garage or a reputable garage (not midas or monro or any of them ) and ask their opinion. keep in mind they flywheels are not machinable.

if it works it works!. i wouldnt worry about it falling down. if you do I'm sure you could get some new hardware.

Fuel injector cleaner is a scam and complete waste of money. :agree:

sounds like a cold motor or a bad clutch

You would imagine wrong. The purpose of a thermostat is to keep the temperature UP. The way it does that is by closing when the temperature drops below the range for that particular thermostat. Once the coolant temperature rises again, the t-stat opens. If you ran 30 miles at 50 MPH with no thermostat, I doubt your operating temperature would ever get high enough to even put the ECU into closed-loop mode. Yes. There are three possibilities here. The sender is one, and the fact it's new does NOT mean that you can believe it's accurate. Second is the gauge itself. Third is wiring. The temperature gauge in my '88 XJ has been riding just above the first tick mark on the gauge for about five years now (whatever temp that corresponds to). But I have good heat. And my gas gauge and voltmeter have also been reading low, for about the same period of time. I'm fairly certain it's because of corrosion/oxidation where the cluster grounds to the chassis, but I know where they normally run so it's not a big deal. As long as I have a needle that I can see if it's NOT where it normally sits, it's okay. (Not ideal, but "okay.") :agree: a t-stat is cheap replace it and your problem should be gone.

Yes, manuals do have a NSS. They are required in many states. Willy Mine don't 8)

i whole heartidly agree. years and years before i owned a jeep i saw a comanche here and there was like "damnnnn, thats a bad @$$ little truck :eek: " i said that too and a month later i had one. i like the s10, ranger, bronco, blazer, and all those but they had more bad years than good imo. what do you mean? 70's and the 80's were awesome

there is hot coco all over my keyboatd. thanks jeepco

:agree:

super swampers :beerhead:

a wire with clips on the end can fix the NSS switch problem. well. tell you if thats what it is.

bleed it? new stuff takes getting used to. sometimes the clutch disengages high on the pedal sometimes lower

HOUSTON WE HAVE A PROBLEM gibbs, you crack me up

bad u joints. basically if there is red all around the u joint then it needs replacing. if the caps are blown its obvious and to check them you just try to move them. if they move and nothing else then they need replacing. for suspension, look for rust check the tire wear. GO FOR A RIDE IN IT. stomp the brakes give it some gas and see if it chugs or stalls. pretty much every jeep ive seen all have leaking fluids. use that to talk the price down. leaky fluids can be checcked by spots that are darker. like on the bottom of a defferential or at the end of an axle tube on all over the ground under the truck. if you see any electrical tape then walk away. if you see any connectors that arent factory, walk away, unless they are hear shrink connectors. thats what i look for. if there is any rust holes then walk away.

i would run a stand alone fuel and ignition system in it. keep it fuel injected and then youll make some serious power. as far as tranny goes i would go with a granny tranny (SM-465) or a Turbo 400. 700R4 will most likely break right as you reach the top of a rock pile.

why not? :dunno:

why not? :dunno:

MPFI fuel systems run around 40PSI in the fuel rail. if you think something is getting in and clogged perhaps check your PVC and air filter. after i would seafoam the intake system