FxRacing282

hey I'm about 15 miles from you and i can't seem to find any comanche around here worth buying for under 500. whered you get one for $50? interested in selling any MJ's?

did you use a cork valve cover gasket? cause thats what i use and they leak like you wouldnt believe.

possibly poor timing?

there are many things that could be causing this. when was your last tune up and what oil do you use? has anything been replaced in the past 20 or so thousand miles?

did you forget to silicone the bolts for the intake?? i know on chevy you have to in order to stop the oil from coming up.

if your gonna go 350 then you may as well go 372/383/400

google em they are like fabtech or any other offroad supplies

open loop refers to O2 sensors. which would cause you to run super rich. my clamaro has that going on right now

afaik backfire would indicate that the egr is letting air into the exhaust. :nuts: my truck did this to me and it was the timing. i guess after nonstop 4x4 the distributor spins a wee bit :mad: on second thought it could be egr. disconnect the vacuum lines to it and plug them see if it goes away. and check to see that the diaphragm moves easily

from the looks of your picture it seems as if you don't have it on the road. if that is the case you could probabally get it done fast-like if you put some time into it and asked all these guys on here what to watch out for and tips and tricks to doing it.

agreed. even though ive heard they wear faster, way less trouble

like "high performance?" or an 'el cheapo'?

i and many others would diagnose before relpacing. Do check the relay simply take a relay from something else that is the same. there is a tiny diagram on the top or side of the relay. swap it and if it works then there ya go. but relays are fairly reliable so to me it sounds like a key switch problem. i, in the past, have re wired a fuel pump by wiring it to one of the "ON" slots on the fuse box, but that would be a last resort. first off i would check for power to the pump while it is one. a test light will work.

so you just want an in-line pump. and I'm sure that you know you will need hose that can handle 50psi or so

nice then i won't be frustrated cause it don't work until i get in from hunting tomarrow!

at midnight eastern time?

get some lithium grease in the tub and lather that crap on there. i always though it did nothing and thats what i was learned until i met my boss who made it a policy at the shop to put it on everytime we clean/inspect/replace a connection.

yeah just measure the sending units placement on the tank (how high up it needs to be from the bottom) and then cut a hole in your fuel cell. if its not do-able then any fuel could work just put a pressure regulator on the end of it. you could even paint it all and say "HIGH PERFORMANCE" when describing it :D

AFAIK nothing is a bolt on. grand waggy is what your looking for.

my buddies car had the same problem and as the wires corrode at the fuel pump they get thinner, cause the wire to over heat due to the amount of amperage and voltage running through which then causes the pump to stop working, and then work in a little while. so we went to advanced auuto parts and bought 10 feet of 16 guage wire and re wired the whole dang thing. no problems since

should be able to adjust the rears with a screw driver through a hole in the back side of the backing plate. yes james is correct, the brake booster is a vacuum system so as there is vacuum (the motor running) then it will allow more force to be applied to the piston in the master while saving your legs

heater core or lines to the heater core.

not emissions legal. just drill and tap and plump in the egr like a stock unit.

i agree. it will take time and money but for you it may be worth it

comancheman the motor isnt stuck is it?