FxRacing282

chances are if the engine blew then it got too hot. Which means the head would have warped. a straight 6 motor is only allowed .006 of an inch of warp before its considered "warped". yes i know the engine blew down low.

which are probably as round as a baseball

the cross tyoe is known as a Cardan style. I'm about 99% its not a CV joint. mini, are you fortunate enough to have a double cardan style joint on the front ds where it bolts to the t-case? check to see that they are both good and lubed up. the next option is to disconnect the front driveshaft and unbolt the rear ds from the axle and hang it by a bunjee cord and check for the ticking. if its in the t-case and its only happening under a load it sounds to me like you have yourself one stretched chain.

:hmm:

thats cause there is a vacume leak. when a system that is vac operated and its only working on defrost then its a vacume issue. pretty much just have a field day chasing vacume linesand looking for the smallest cracks and make sure they are sealing when they connect.

sounds like its time for a cold air intake WITH a sealed box. and a new cat back exhaust that will give it a bit more flow. anything 2 1/4-3'' will do fine.

well then. that makes things easier. my same buddy sprayed his truck at different times. its a no-no. it comes out all different shades and what not.

i call em tree huggin hippies :mad:

Not really. Well, I don't know what he plans with it. But most stock 60s are hardly better than a stock 44, but with worse ground clearance and a lot more weight. up here people run a D60 locked with tractor tires on it. www.justchevytrucks.com ive met these guys a few times and got stuff from them and they all swear by it

80% or better of axles ive spun always spun both sides. one going one way and the other going another. but i do agree that a bar to free it up is a good idea. if its stuck its time for a fluid swap and maybe some chemicals to clean out some rust or sludge thats making it stick.

my buddy paints and he says that you should use something along the lines of 60 grit, then prime, then 300 or so then paint then 1000 and up for wetsand. just curious is this single stage or is a basecoat under clearcoat job?

60 or 70. kenosha. andy 3/4 and up is 8 lug. on Chevy ford dodge. 60 or 70 dosent really matter because the chance of you breaking it is like zero. i want to say 70 as if i remember corrctely the fords used a 70 in the rear and a 60 in the front.

how about a fat kid?

tune up includes cap, rotor, plugs, wires, tb cleaning and injector cleaner and some fuel additive that cleans valves or something. well at least thats what it is where i work. when y ou have the plugs out its a good time to check compression. disconnect the coil and hold the throttle to the floor and crank for 5 seconds. should be 120 and up.

so pete ive been asking car painters about paint as i plan to paint my 87 camaro. and they all tell me that a good paint job is 95% prep. and practice on some scrap metal before you spray the body.

the MJ diesels had 4.10 or 4.56 gears, and from what I can tell, most or all of the ones in the states (I can only find 15 so far) have AMC20's and the M/T rear springs. testament is my dad's 86 turbo diesel M/T 5 speed 4.10's amc20 rear but base model other than that yes i have only seen one it person. it would be sweeat to own it. it was all black and cad hurricane wheels. but it was also a bit rusty and the bed was rough. havent seen it in 6 months. leaked like a waterfall from every seal

no injectors just a main throttle body and I'm runnin pretty much all stock. lt215/75/15's and i would cut the cat completely out since we don't have emisions here in wyoming a throttle body has fuel injectors. but instead of having them near the end of the intake runners, its in the throttle body. i wanna say there is two but there may only be one.

or to save time just take a multimeter, put it on 20V in DC power and black on black and red on red. it should be 14-16V. if its less then you either have, A) Bad ground from battery- engine,fender, frame ect B) Bad alternator. if its a bad alternator get one with a lifetime warranty and nothing less. put the receipt with your registration so when it breaks in 3 years you go back and get a new one and the receipt is right there. C) Bad battery, could be a dead cell or something lame like that.

agreed. they designed it they built it best... unless its a ford product

you know, is going through all this trouble to save time really worth it? if it is then congrads JT you got some good thinking goinong, seriously. but if it takes more time and thinking and energy then whats the point? I'm sure JT, with a little more though and working out the bugs you could be onto something. good thinking though!

you could wire it to an "on" slot in the fuse block. that way its only on when the key is on and it will only be cooling the motor when the t-stat is open.

the HP gains on an empty cat vs. a O.P. cat is like 2 or 3hp. its been proven on a dyno. pretty much, if you turbo it, yes it will go up hills better and so on. but it WILL affect your mpg's. so beware! i would suggest a good tune up that includes a complete cleaning of the throttle body and have you ever though of getting skinnier tires? same height just not as wide? id leave the engine stock personally, but i live at like 60 feet above sea level. you could try getting your injectors(i think its got 2) cleaned and run some mystery oil to help restore some power. you gotta remember, its only a 4 banger.

in and of its self there is nothing wrong with the 96 OBDII setup. Technically you are right. It's just a personal beef with certain vehicles and their OBD 2 systems I've owned over the years. :D i would prefer an obdII over anything, then a carb and then OBDI, ive worked on all and carb is easiest. obdI is a pita and obdII is a joke. a todler can figure it out

LIVE FREE AND DIE, its still somethign we all believe in. well atleast the normal people up here. we got all these tree huggin hippes from mass trying to govern everything and make it a socialist community. fyi, i have a black and blue 81 chevy lifted 5-6'' on 35x16x15 tires. most people actually can't get into my truck so vandalizing isnt a big concern. or maybe it the gun rack and all the hunting and gun stickers i have laying around. from the people i talk to most people arent necessarily okay with the flag but don't really care if you want it then have it. kinda chimes in with the live free or die. most people up here who drive lifted trucks... well a little redneck is an understatement. you go tlike 2 groups of people up here, normal people and people with lifted trucks. ford guys wave to chevy guys as long as it lifted. and then you got the other people p.s. sorry if i offended anyone

oooh. and yeah ill say CPS too. or faulty ecu.