FxRacing282

that high. just over the danger zone of too much head flex-age. id put a lower temp thermostat. i run a 160 in my stock 350sbc truck and suprisingly my fuel economy went up? whatever. 220 isnt deadly but tis not good for the motor

Around here we refer to it as "the 5-pound Ford carburetor adjusting tool." thats a good one.

What RPMs do you turn at 65 MPH, about 1200? I think if you get better than about 12 MPG it's a modern miracle. Not sure, never had it up to 65 yet. But we are getting around 8mpg :roll: Going to put in a new O2 sensor and see what we get. Everything else is new so it must be a bad O2 sensor. you can try it but its no guarantee. synthetic oil and a good tune up should give you much better mpg.

"Universal fits nothing"

:dunno: its worth a shot right?

the alternator should boil the water out from the heat its absorbing from the motor. but it sounds good in theory. Water isn't the issue. Dirt/sand/crap is. It takes very little to score up the brushes and the surface they ride on, which will cause your field voltage to drop to almost nothing and the alternator won't make no juice. The idea is that if it can drain out it will prevent damage... that makes sense. i guess when your alternator is 4 feet high you don't think about sand and whatnot getting in there

if the choke is electric then no it is not computer controlled. it is just a steel coil and when you tuirn the key on it passes electricity through the coil, coil heats up, expands, spins the shaft it is on and "un-chokes'' the carb. but you would know if it is open when you spray fuild into it because it covers the two main barrels.

people like you make the world go around

all you really need is one of those metal funnels with the flex pipe on it. say, heat shield?

yeah the tires need slip so when it hops the tire is essentially doing a burnout. unlike a rear end which squeals a front end has much more weight and eventually the torque overpowers the tire and it hops. kinda cool science but a bugger on the road

the alternator should boil the water out from the heat its absorbing from the motor. but it sounds good in theory.

No thanks. Last time I tried that I got shocked. Big time. :eek: hey the 2.8 in your car the same as a 2.8 camaro engine? cause I'm gonna pull a 2.8 out of my third gen and if need some stuff off of it pay postage and its yours

:cheers:

its very simple to check axle u joints. first take a flash light. second look at the caps and see if they have exploded. youll understand when you see if they are exploded. if they look ok, then if you see and light brown dust on anything or the ears of the axle are tinted then you will need to replace them. next just take your hand and shake the axleby the ears, up down and all over town. if you can feel movement go get some new ones.

I'm betting on the ignition. ether burns very rapidly and will still burn in a flooded engine. pete you don't have to get a spark tester but if you want one i understand. do it the old fashion way and hold the plug to some metal and watch for spark while someone else cranks it over.

:agree:

shouldnt the O2 sensor decect that it is above or below 14.7a/f ratio and adjust accordingly?

:agree:

mmm also there is a shaft that runs from the clutch pedal through the firewall. push the clutch pedal to the floor and then let it out. push back the boot and look and feel for any type of fluids. if you feel anything that is not grease. then you need to put some brake fluid in the master cyl. resivoir. the cap will tell you what type to use but I'm willing to bet its dot 3. if that is clean then check for any cracks or wet spots on the line. if you find one then replace the line. imho, if you need a new line then i would buy a quality slave cylinder and replace it while in the process. pita but its worth changing it while its working rather than changing it on the side of the road in a town.

Well my xj is a 96 and its going to have to have the sniffer test.. Its the one that has the rattles that I thought was the transfer case chain rattling... The mj,,,, well I'm just disappointed in it.. :roll: low oil pressure and I really think its the bearings... :roll: :cry: Think I can pass a sniff test with the cat hollowed out?? I don't think so, but I could be wrong.. nope sorry.

GOOD FOR YOU. if you want to stay legal, take the cat off and get a pipe that has the same outside diameter of the inside diameter of the cat. start it in the hole, hold the cat over the pipe and slam it into the ground until to pipe has sucessfully bored a hole through the cat. tach weld pipe in place, mig weld onto exhaust system. buy case of beer, dispose at will

:agree: with pete autozone? has lifetime warranty?

agreed. :agree: if its plastic JB has an epoxy. you could get some epoxy 12 or something along those lines. definatly clean the surface and rough it up. i used jb on my brass radiatior on my k10 and it seems to be working although it is wearing away. kinda wierd but still works

bad idea. from what ive heard from my super mechanic friend they will shatter when they flex. but hey wire isnt expensive so only some time is lost.

GOOD LUCK :cheers: