FxRacing282

i believe that a shackle 2'' longer will give you two inches of lift. i know a kid who dropped his c1500 4'' and he had shackles that were 4'' longer than stock.

to some of us 70 is a good bit of money. and to others its not.

they are not cheap and you can do the timeing and bring it back and say it was defective and get your money back

using a wire wheel works but a grinder will work better. i tend to find that the better prepped surface the stronger the welds. ive welded wire wheeled metal and the welds didnt stick.

when you change the acid make sure you don't leave the battery dry for too long because the insulator between the two metals can fall apart and then rendering your battery garbage. ask me how i found this out... acually on second please don't...

yeah that would suck to see a rod drop to the ground or a pool of anti freeze run across the driveway... P.S. anti-freeze is flamable

if the cables look good try doing a voltage drop test to see if under the coateing the wires have fallen apart. also this may tell you if your starter has problems. if there is a lot of voltage drop .5v or more then drop the starter and bench test it. if its good change your cables

id try bleeding the master. the shoes may need to be tightened?

grind tp bare metal and weld new floor patches on. it dosent take terribly long and its well worth doing things the right way in the long run. plus, who dosent wanna play with a welder?

partially clogged cat? also if the motor is not warmed up it uses 1/3 of the gas that is put in the cylinders. it dosent take much to idle. what temp thermostat you got in there? ive heard that fully open at 200-210 is best for fuel efficiency

summit racing has the cragar drag lites but summit brand cheap. those wouldnt look to bad on a manche with 31 ten fiftys

well i guess in theory if you had a limited slip or a locker or w/e a rear sway bar would have only made the fishtial 'worse' (some of us rate fishtails on the farther sideways the better) as the weight would have been more 'equal' allowing for more tire spinnage which would result in an awesome little power slide.

also when you go to test your engine you want it real hot and whatnot. when the engine is just slowly driven to the garage it has less of a chance of failing. but it looks like you are all set

hate to sound out of place here but... if you got the rad out I'm thinking a big ol cam swap... :brows:

idk what yall are sayin. cherry bombs arent that loud. now some cherry bombs are directional flow, one way for louder one way for a quieter crisp sound. turn it backward if you think it too loud. personally i think that a 4.0 running a CAT and then a cherry bomb aint that loud ive heard em before. imho i think the 40 series sound like junk on any straight enigine, jeep 4.0 ford 300 ect.

ive heard of this stuff. if I'm correct its the stuff you put your nasty gummy paintbrushes in to look new right?

yeah what you can do is replace the fuseable links with regular wire that is the same guage and but in a regular fuse like in your fuse block. some people don't like doing that but it is a zillion times easier to check them and even easier to fix it. yeah so grab a test lights and follow the wire to its connector and see if the light will light up.

to check a fuseable link you pull both the side and if it stretches then its no good. if it feels like a regular wire then your all set. if you can't tell the difference then get a test light to ground and to the end of the fuseable link from the battery. its that easy no ohm meter or none of that for this. if the lights lights up then its good, if it doesn't then its no good. if its halfway lit then replace the connectors on the battery and the fuseable like as 20 years or so will corrode the insulator and wire away. possible the whine is the blower motor?

Break-Away works great. cleans bead sealer off tires. as long as you get the loose stuff off the cover and whatnot. then the other stuff does not matter.

well, if you are a decent with diagrams and wire cutters and crimpers and a heat gun then its not so bad just takes a while. but if your not then bring it to a very trustworthy garage

yeah what he said check pressure at startup and then once it starts to get crappy to see what the drop is. then check voltage to the fuel pump during priming and once it starts to turn to garbage

YES.... I'm not an idiot!!

or you could splice the wire for your trailer. probabally the easiest. get a test light and hook it to a ground and hit the brakes and when the light lights you got the wire you need to splice

Yes. they should be able to move how you are describing them. if they didnt then they would crack and breal when the suspension flexes