FxRacing282

umm. call napa get the "is there oil in my coolant kit" and fill your rad up. check it with the little strip. possible water pump but probabally not. one way to tell is before water pumps go they make this fairly annnnnnoying noise that you can't mistake. has it ever made that high pitch noise?

you don't need a u-joint puller. you can use a hammer and a vise. its just the same and probabally much faster. atleast, thats my expierence after doing all the u joints on my truck.

please explain this to me because the hub is seperate from the knuckle and i just seperated two of them and put them back together w/out any problems

got a vice? it makes u joints ten times easier. which you may already know...

just did ball joints on a xj with a hpD30. the three bolts you can take out but be careful they are 12 point. it was a 97 and i had to get an air hammer to separate the bearing assembly from the actual knuckle itself. don't be scared to use a hammer but don't be stupid either. you can try taking the tire off, and hitting every crack with PB BLASTER. the stuff is like magic i swear. if you have to you can get a torch and heat up the area on the rotor that connects it to the bearing assembly. when you put it back together. you want to load up every part where metal is on metal with never-seize. (on the brakes that is. both sides of the rotor.) for the left side axle nut you may have to use a special socket for it as the hole is smaller. we had problems. you may not.

well good luck buddy :cheers:

i think i would first do a test to see which one will corrode faster from the inside out. I'm thinking aluminum. but somethign dosent seem right

x2-ruin fuse block

well i hate to say this. but I'm about 99% sure you have to bleed the slave. someone on here brough up a thread about an external slave swap at some point in the history of this site.

could be cold?

Look closer, probably 225/75/15. If it was originally equipped with 205's, then you are traveling a bit further than the odometer is showing. (also traveling faster than the speedo is showing). thats true but its not going to affect the outcome much. maybe 1mpg. a 205/75r15 is not much smaller than a 215/75r15

hey could you find that forum where the guy made a custom dash? ie been pondering that idea for my project camaro.

haha so if it did light on fire you would have it dripping all over you? sounds like something i would do

\\ heh heh good question

Is your Chebby 350 injected and computer controlled, or "old school" carburetor and distributor? Back in "the good old days" we always ran colder thermostats than the factory, and got better performance and better fuel mileage. Probably didn't help emissions much, but testing was rudimentary back then. The Jeep computers don't come out of open loop (warm-up) mode until around 168 degrees, so running a 160-degree t-stat is indeed (as explained above) likely to result in a truck that runs "pig rich" all the time. Since the purpose of a thermostst is to keep the temperature UP, not down, there is no reason whatsoever to run a colder t-stat than the factory 195-degree. Let's face it -- if your radiator is so fubarred it can't cool the engine down to 195, how do you think it's going to cool it to 180 or 160? Also, be careful in reading that factory gauge. Aside from the tolerance, remember that it does NOT read on a linear scale. I see posts like "My Jeep runs at 231.3 degrees" and I wonder "How the hell can you read that gauge to any semblance of precision?" "Cold" is marked as 100 degrees. Halfway, or straight up, is 210 degrees. So the first half of the needle's range is 110 degrees. "Hot" is what -- 280 (IIRC)? So an equal swing on the upper end of the scale is only 70 degrees. So the needle isn't on a linear scale, folks. Good luck guessing what it's actually reporting if it's anywhere other than right on 210. yeah i have a q-jet 650. i always was taught from tech's and teachers that a tstat fully open at 210 is about as good as it gets. well i go play in the mud for hours on end and radiators get glogged up so i though well. i have to replace the tstat anyways so ill put in a 160. well i did and tada. everything you just said. it hasnt hit 210 since i put it in. it seems to be around 160-175 just above halfway when the stat is closed. i can watch the guage go up and then go down slightly

nock it down 15 mph and see what your getting

i always figured if your gonna spend some cash you might as well get em all right? but thats just my opinion

ive used napa in the past and had no problems. one time we put one in an 87 4runner and with a couple of big kids in the back my buddy and i wheelied it. napa works so ill stick to them.

are you a spirited driver? i know when i drive fun i get like 4mpg in my truck. then i drove like a granny and got 32mpg in my corolla as opposed to driving spirited in it and getting about 15.

mm. probabally not the best idea, seeing as brake fluid is combustalbe and aluminum is a very weak metal. heating may cause warpage or crack.

do a leakdown. if you still have low compression then its something in the heads

which is why i had a question mark after my statement. it just dosent make sense

yeah my 5200lb chevy with a 350 with 35x16 boggers and 3.42 gets about 10city -15highway that is low. have you checked fuel injectors?

looks like ive got some reading to do...

ive ran the engine cleaner crap. it work for sure. put it in at about 1,500 miles after recent oil change and it came out black as can be. asked my go to guy when i can't figure something out about it and he tried it, smelled it, and said use diesel fuel instead. a quart of the cleaner is $4. diesel is $4 a gallon. for the water, i wouldn't say a shady mechanics way, more like an economical way. when you do it just hold it wide open and pour the water in. itl spit and sputter and maybe even puke in your face, but itll clean it out. just curious, why would you want to take out compression booster? your not pinging are you?