FxRacing282

:agree:

sounds like its time for a DIY on fuel cell building. in NH its illegial to have a gas tank in the storage section of a bed unless its a factory gig. or its properly protected or something lame along those lines.

the pick up is the little round thing at the bottom of the pump that sits inside the oil pan. they can get clogged up and restrict oil flow. and you or i or anyone will be able to see the amount of wear on an oil pump that is only pumping 20lbs as opposed to 40lbs. its like a feeler guage thing. seafoam is an additive that cleans and protects your engine's guts. the engine is like an air compressor and a million moving parts. no or less lube means engine dies. we wouldnt want that. when its pinging or clicking and clacking then its time to turn the motor off. call your wife, AAA or who ever and bring it in the garage and fix it. it dosnt take long to fry bearings

ahh. you know jb weld works wonders. we've patched gas tank with it before

umm first thing i would do is hook it up to a mechanical guage. if its still bad then do an oil change with some seafoam. then if the problem is still there id shoot BLHTAZ a message and see if he can sell you a oil pump pick-up. cause that is probabally toast.

okay but the pump is still in the open. it could be 10 feet high but its still gonna get it. personally, i would build a box around the pump, put rubber between the pump and anything else to stop any sort of arcing. and i see your theory here as i too redneck things. but if everything went as planned you would probabally be running a stock system right? cause the OEM one wouldnt have quit.

sounds about right with labor and whatnot. seems like he is only charging for what? 4 hours? thats not too bad if you look at it realistically. personally id tackle it myself but thats me and i have a couple cars to drive so if it breaks then oh well.

ahh you see i pretty much associate honda with being all computerized and my buddies 95 civic need to be timed mechanically. so i figured, well its like 7 years newer so its probably more advanced. i was wrong... once again. but tomarrow is a new day and ill be a little smarter :waving:

if i remember correctly the hoses were clamped on and not on with fittings. that is unsafe right there. it has virtually no protection (okay maybe a little but not near enough)

my truck does the same thing :banana:

yeap thats the technical name for it. its clicking though. ive heard of and seen once (only 17) positive leads that have a ton of ocrrosion and only let a certain amount of power through them. which is why you would have like slow cranking or no cranking. also ive had this happen to me. same exact thing your talking about. well turnout out to be dirt connections. the connection may look clean but don't be fooled. thouroughly clean them with baking soda and water and a toothbrush. then re connect. and try again

i did something a little bit different... one fine day while i was working on my camaro i needed some tools. i went to ace to get some cheap tools as the tools trucks seemed to never swing by work when i was there. on my way out i say this cardboard display displaying some fine articles. basically, i bought a camo hat with built in L.E.D. lights. it takes two 3V watch batteries and the switch is a clicker on the bottom of the brim all covered up. :chillin:

a cheapo cat converter does not work as well. it may fail sooner internally. but as far as externally it is all dependnt on the operator. if you do not get hooked up to the sniffer and you only have one O2 sensor which is before the cat then i would not replace it. if its clogged take it off stick something through it to empty it out and put it back on. OR some people will pay BIG money for these cat's because they have platinum in them. see what they will pay for it and if they have any empty ones theyll give you. then you make some cash and get like 2hp out of it. up here a cat out of a head pipe on a euro or jap car was over $100. a look a like aka autozone was only 20 dollars give or take depending on the size.

alrgith well thanks for your help. my father told me no more stuff in the yard so it looks like ill have to part with something to get this and i hate to say goodbye to my toys.

okay, maybe its voltage I'm thinking of, not ohms. its been a while since ive had to do it.

no you need to give brent a pm and see if he will sell one to you. he works at a dealership. OEM means that its "original Equipment from the Manufacturer" so your pretty limited to dealerships.

i sure do hope so. if not i know a guy who will give me a D35&30 so that no biggy. so a no go on keeping the tranny?

sounds like you have not enough power going from the starter to the battery. you can test this by taking a multimeter and set it to the ohm setting (looks like a horseshoe). place one lead on the positive battery cable at the connection on the battery and the other at the other end of the cable on the starter. then turn the key to the start position and see what your ohm reading is. it shouldnt be a double digit

found a 88 mj for 500 with an 02 TJ axle up front (D30). its a 2wd with a 5 speed. so other than a t-case & linkage) drive shafts what do i need? i can't seem to think of anything else

okay so if the lights and everything works then its MOST LIKELY a key switch problem. there is a rod that runs down the colum. check to see if it moves when you turn the key.

If by DOT 5 you mean silicone -- that's what I've been running in brakes and clutch for years. IMHO it makes even more sense for the clutch, because in the event of a leak the silicone won't trash the fuse panel. (It'll be slippery and wet and messy, but it won't be trashed.) always what i've thought, but always good to hear a second opinion

:agree: the actual changing is very easy and does not require much knowledge about anything. you shouldnt have any problem doing it. just a tip for bleeding. BLEED BLEED BLEED and then bleed it just a little more. id use DOT 3 fluid. has anyone ever used dot 5?

:clapping:

Timing is not adjustable IIRC. So unless you did something wrong in the tune-up, your problem lies elsewhere. I just started to have a similar problem, so I'm going to replace the ignition bits, and probably the Cat as well. can't you spin the distributor for a base timing and the ecu/vacuum/mechanical will advance it?