pingpong

I am thinking that.. or he is over tightening the belt which is causing it to wear. I had an issue on my belt sytem where the Idler pulley locked up... glad I caught that on a routine maintenace check.

Seems to me to just be a concept... no real footage of someone going down the road.

Never thought of them hooking stuff up wrong and causing other issues

Maybe you did it in your subconcious.. there are a couple of rigs for sale in there :idea:

To me what size tires fit is almost a personal prefereance. Hre is a pic of Pong with no lift and 31x10.5 If you don't mind cutting and bump stop properly I have seen 33's on 2" :hmm: Didnt have much flex.. but with bupstopping , and cutting it could be done. Here is a pic of a 89 xj I had with zero lift and 31x10.5

Nice find... I love 2dr xj's

Pete ... did you want to buy something on the forum and lock it.. so no one else could get it? :cheers:

It might end up being a good crowd... I say Kegger :cheers: with steaks and scallops hmmmm scallops :doh:

I find showing up with a means to get a vehicle out of someones yard works really good if you plan on chewing them down on the price. Also if there wife is there, and he " has to check with her" it makes it more believable that said POS wil be out of the yard.

I could have told you that :smart: My misses only gets worried if I take the trailer and go somewhere with out my jeep. She knows I am to cheap to buy somethng that is actually driveable :(

The waggy 44 if complete and useable is worth about 150 bucks depending on gearing. Of copurse if it has 4.10's or a desireable gear worth more. The waggy rear... depending on condition and what group of wheelers you amrket it to.. about 150. The f250 axle.. well I think you are mistaken on the year of it.According to my R&P book if it is not frm a 77 or newer f250 cause they all came with HP D44's. All the same, depending on width and condition, and what size u-joints it has. Anywhere from 100- to as much as 400. I sold a HP d44 out of a 79 f250 for roughly 500, and it was in good condiotn with 4.10's. The 76 Ford d60 Depending on the spline count will dictate how much it is really worth. Also brake conditon plays a big part in that as well. Most of the time a rear axle is only worth about 100-150. If it is 35 spline and has a desireable gear ratio.. maybe as much as 250. I base all these values on making a relatively quick sale. Also on what an average wheeler would pay for them.

I think the problem is mostly related to the gaskets GM used between the intake and heads. Wifes car 2001 olds with the 3.4 had the same problem. I have also seen this problem on several 4.3's. It is uder a grand to fix the problem. I think the bok calls for like 6 hrs labor

Not sure about on the YJ, but I know on the Cj there is one center bolt for the grille/radiator support. I would definately pull that, and maybe both fenders. I am pretty sure that none of the xj acces parts will work on the YJ. It it was me.. I would hang both engines on a set of stands and swap everything over.

NO info on it.. but his exo looks similar to the one I have on pong in a few ways. at least the basic structure is. Check my web shot page

I will call you this afternnon with questions.... I hope I am off the weekend you plan on doing this... I changed dept. now I am back on that screwed up schedule I had a yr ago.

Just a question.. Have you cycled your front suspension? It looks like if you get it twisted up.. your uppers are going to be in your oil pan. Also are you running a single triangulated 4 link? Got any pics of the frame mounts for me to ponder?

I am always amazed at how the 4x4 community is blamed for the trash on the trails when most of them time it is the locals who do the dumping. On that note most of the time it is the locals who are making "spider" trails as well, that the unknowing visitor uses as well.

I have to agree with the posters saying sell it. Unfortunately our vehicles are not worth what we really put in to them, and If you are going to truggy it...find one that is in worse shape and cut it up. Or better yet.. start with a purpose built chasis and go from there(wish I had done that). Focus on school.

I shall be there... Just let me know if you ned a trailer to help you move... I have 2 to choose from. A small 5x8, and a large 82"x18' Keep in ind my tow rig is stupid long with this trailer behind it.

The BA/10 is junk. That being said mine is holding up to some severe abuse, but I plan on swapping in a external ax15 here in the immediate future. Mine will include the t-case as well if you want to come to va to pick it up. If not I wil turn it in for dirty aluminum scrap

MY last "big dummy" move like that was on casper when I was setting up the steering. I was stoked.. I had gotten the axle under the rig, and was getting ready to hook up the steering. Well I had placed the tie rod into the pitman arm, and had to reach to get the nut for it... well not thinking.. I let go the tie rod(it was sitting there tightly) well needless to say.. it came loose and struck me right in the middle of my forehead. One ER visit later.. for a head lac.. I learned my leson

Jeff Hit al the high points. My recommendations are Use 12 ton jack stands Keep the tires on the axle until it is out from under the vehicle. For the rear... Undo the u-bolts then support the axle using a floor jack unbolt the shackle at the spring side. Laslty roll axle back from under the jeep. Depending on how tall your rig is, and what size tires you have it should not be an issue (did this with 35's under pong when it had a bed) For the front I like to use a lil different approach then jeff. I disconnect the shocks, sway bar, brake lines at the frame, driveshaft at the axle. I also unbolt the control arms from the body, and the trac bar from the frame. The steering I unbolt from the pitman arm. Then using a engine lift I raise the vehicle up as high as i can safely, then place jack stand behind the lca mounts. Roll engine lift out of the way, then said axle. This way you are swapping the hard parts outside of under the vehicle where it is a lil easier. ON reinstallation, connect the uppers first, then use an anchor point and a ratchet strap to line up the bottom. Then replace al lother said components.

It should be a 207 at least thats what is in my 85 xj, but they are the same.

To me picking the right shocks is dependent on how the rig will be used and how it is set up. As pointed out, there is no perfect shock for every situation, there is always a comprimise. The way I pick shocks is I measure how much space I actually have mount to mount. Then I flex my rig up, I stuff my tires til they almost rub ( good time to figure out if anything else is hitting and build/buy bump stops) then I drop my suspension out, and see how much down travel I have, making sure I am not pulling on my brake lines, or binding the drive shaft. Then I call what ever supplier I am going to use, and ask about deals, and tell him what I need extended and compressed. Daystar now sells a shock bumpstop for around 20 bucks, they can help prevent shock damge from over compressing. I prefer the Doesch tech 3000's they are relatively cheap and preform well.

A sharp knife works well too.. then take it down and have the interior sprayed with a bed liner