pingpong

What motor is in the hearse? To me I would think 1 ton axles would be a must. The weight of that thing has to be 5k plus. For a trans.. depending on the motor.. a NV4500 would be a must as well... near bullet proof. All that being said... I think buildng a 4 wheel drive cheevette would be cooler :smart:

That was cool to watch. Kinda reminds me of wheeling a Duece and half in Panama :eek: They also look like the Hemmit vehicles we had down there in some of the other battalions. You have to love the sound of the deisel too :smart:

under 100 :smart: just a guess of course

That depends on what the rules state that you can use. I know JeepSpeed has specific rules governing what you can and can't use. To me if I was desert racing hydraulic bumps would have to be a must and at 200 a piece.. thats 800 right there.. NOT CHEAP. then you have bypass shocks at 3-400 a piece :nuts: Nothing cheap about it.

The only problem I see with using a Sawzal is it pushes and pulls the metal.... which can make it distort and hard to manage. I would use the cutoff wheel. Place tabe alng where you want to cut.. and use that as a guide. My personal favorite way to cut fenders is the Plasma.. followed by cleaning up the edge with a grinder

If it was me.. I would go with the ARB. 2 ppl in my local club were/are running the OX. Both of them had problems with the cable sliding, and not engaging the locker. Both of them converted the cable actuation to small air cylinders. :dunno: So if they would have started with an ARB... they never would have been denied on obstacles when their lockers failed. ( Chad's failed on Helicopter Pad (tellico) and he was in a pretty bad spot)

I am sure you can teach yourself, but I think if you actually took a class you would/could learn the full potential of the equipment

Are either one of these kits designed for the MJ? I ran into some issues when installing my Terra LA on Pong Back in the day

I wouldnt use the spring pads of an Explorer.. I would find some off of a F150 or similar ride. The u-bolt holes are closer to the right width. The explorer u-bolt holes are kinda far away from the spring perches. I definately recommend doing this under the vehicle. Unless you really want to trust doing everything by a tape measure :no: If it was me.. I would mark center line on the axle, and mark center line on the truck, hang a plumb bomb from center line truck and line it up. Also make sure you use an angle finder to set your pinion angle the same as you t-case out put angle

Heck as rare as that Scout is... I say keep it and restore it/wheel it. If the body is to far gone I say truggy/cage it and wheel it. I think it would be way more work then it was worth to try and put it in a MJ

As a jeep abuser.. Unless your rig has rust.. and lots of it you don't need stiffners, unless you want to prevent dents in your frame cause you wheel hard. There are a few places on the xj/mj that have the common problem of crackingespecially when exposed to bigger tires and lockers. As pointed out By Pete... the steering box area is prone to this. C-Rok and a few other companies make plates for this problem. Also as Far as I know.. no one makes a MJ frame stiffner, and the one for the XJ will not work.

:agree: Just think how many mall crawlers look at you hauling you beat down trail rig to the mountains saying "what a dumb a$$". I know I have gotten that look more then once.. but most of the times I get the thumbs up, or the approval nod. I say different strokes for different folks. I have been a participant in a few different forms of car/truck building. :huh???: I used to love my chopped and dropped s-10 I had (hard top convertible). I also did the muscle car thing... I can appreciate how much time and money some one else puts in their ride.

WOW I went to Wal-mart the other day and I think I saw all of the items listed except the guy missing a limb :eek: The one good thing about Walmart is.. when they lowered their prices on LCD tv's eveyone else did too :yes:

I replied to your PM.

Adam made just about every point to be made why you need to run a SYE on anything over 6.5. Sky Crapper as I like to call them is ok for some things... not the subframe setup. I know some one who has this setup on an xj, and he has had to replace the joints on them at least once.. maybe more. To be honest for the money there are better kits out there. Most of your MJ kits have you do a SOA swap. thats how we get the 6.5" of lift. Or you will see lifts up to 4" which in the rear is either new springs or a combo of AAL and a shackle. I personally like the last setup I installed, but it is on an XJ (same in the front) I am running the Rock Krawler 3 link. It flexes great, and is really stable on the highway.

While at the Junk yard look for a 92 or newer xj with an open radiator. Take the radiator top, radiatorand the overflow bottle and bracket. Real good upgrade and will solve you possible future problems.

Thats a sweet truck.. and rather cheaply priced.

I would have ordered a new chain and put it together and sold it on E-bay :smart:

As Adam pointed out... that is very accurate. The issue with not runing a SYE is the run out on the slip yoke and how it travels out of round. Just if you don't use a SYE make sure you change the u-joints.. cause they get used to runnng at certain angles

I wil post up my opinion on this. To me it isnt worth the money to do the swap. Figure install kits are around 100 bucks a piece, and you said you can get the gears done for 100 an axle... you are at 400 bucks :eek: Thats a lot of money for an axle you can get stock. If you were doing 4.10's I would say it is still high.. but at least a drastic enough improvement that I would deem it a reasonable expense. AS for used gears. I almost use them exclusively. :huh???: Most of the time they are cheap :yes: and for the most part none of my rigs really see any highway use. I have yet to have a noisy install with used gears, but I have alwayspaid to have my gears installed. I do all my other work but that. [/color] On a side note... I have a used set of 4.10's for the d35 I will sell you for 20 bucks plus shipping.

This is how I like to fix damaged beds

What I do when I build them for a XJ/MJ or whetever vehicle it is.. I take a level and go off the furtherest part of the door sticking out, level it.. then measure from the pinch seam. As pointed out the MJ frame changes drastically from the front to the rear.

I need more lead time then what you posted. Thats like 2 weeks.. I can't get time off that quick. Never ran RC.. but Ran Paragon a couple of times and loved it.. I love the traction the rocks have up there :smart: Maybe we could schedule something when its nicer too.... I would be game for a road trip and a 3-4 day wheeling trip Heck I might even have Pong up and running... and I could carry both of my rigs :nuts:

1.I am a Cancer survivor 2.I am/was bilingual lived in Panama for 3 yrs 3.I drive a fork truck at work 4.I am really active in Church 5.I like all types of vehicles (even lowriders)

Well for me it would be to own my own custom shop. I am into all types of rides, so naturally I would work on everything from Lowriders to mud bog trucks and rock krawlers. If I couldnt have that.. I would want to own a Junk yard :eek: would would supply endless parts for my hobby of building rock krawlers