pingpong

Wow.... First to compare ectasy with Pot... thats a stretch :no: Getting caught with 50 pills means he was dealing.. should have gotten 10 yrs :brows: I want the ppl who are for pot smoking to look at some of the young ppl who smoke regularly. I want you to actually talk to them. Listen to how they sound. Ask them what they do for a living :idea: ask them what their goals are :nuts: If you think pot is harmless... look at these young ppl and come talk to me. Most of them couldnt stand to loose the brain cells they just toasted to start with

Not sure of the price difference from Canada to the U.S., but a head gasket set here is 75 bucks. Bascially you will need a set of good hand tools, a deep well 16mm as well as a torque wrench. I find it easier to thread to ste of bolts in the head a run a length of chain to make hand holds to set it in place. A haynes manual hasall the steps listed

Not sure of the price difference from Canada to the U.S., but a head gasket set here is 75 bucks. Bascially you will need a set of good hand tools, a deep well 16mm as well as a torque wrench. I find it easier to thread to ste of bolts in the head a run a length of chain to make hand holds to set it in place. A haynes manual hasall the steps listed

don't use a bolt on SOA kit :no: :idea: just buy or make some spring perches, wled them on (or pay to have it done). That way you can set the pinion angle the way you want it for the amount of lift you have :smart:

don't use a bolt on SOA kit :no: :idea: just buy or make some spring perches, wled them on (or pay to have it done). That way you can set the pinion angle the way you want it for the amount of lift you have :smart:

To me it all depends on how you are going to use/abuse the equipment. In MYopinion anything over 4" requires a LA setup or drop brackets. :brows: I ran the RE drop brackets for a while on POng. I even used stock upper and lower control arms on it and it worked great, and I had a ready supply of control arms. The only thing I did was weld some 1/8 plate along the uppers and lowers to strengthen them a lil :D I am not sure how much they sell for now, but drop brackets, and a good quality trac bar and mount, and a set of 6.5 springs is almost as cheap as you can get. Either way you need the trac bar/mount Currently I am running theRock krawler 3 link in the Turd. I do not recommend any suspension using hiems/johnny joints for mudding. They will wear out quicker, and require more maintanance. These are my opinions and do not constitute an endorsement for any product

To me it all depends on how you are going to use/abuse the equipment. In MYopinion anything over 4" requires a LA setup or drop brackets. :brows: I ran the RE drop brackets for a while on POng. I even used stock upper and lower control arms on it and it worked great, and I had a ready supply of control arms. The only thing I did was weld some 1/8 plate along the uppers and lowers to strengthen them a lil :D I am not sure how much they sell for now, but drop brackets, and a good quality trac bar and mount, and a set of 6.5 springs is almost as cheap as you can get. Either way you need the trac bar/mount Currently I am running theRock krawler 3 link in the Turd. I do not recommend any suspension using hiems/johnny joints for mudding. They will wear out quicker, and require more maintanance. These are my opinions and do not constitute an endorsement for any product

The issue isnt the driveshaft.. it is going to be the pinion angle and caster. :smart: Not sure how much lift you are running, but being the TJ 44 is a lp axle, it means the pinion is roughly 4-5" lower then the stock axle. The way to fix the pinion angle is with adjustable uppers, but then you run into caster issues :doh: To me, its not really the best choice :shake: If you are dead set on running a d44 up front, find a 73-77 ford hp44 and have it shortened to waggy width, then run some hi-steer knuckles. For the rear I would either run a XJ/MJ d44 with a set of alloys to give you the 5x5.5 to match the front.

The issue isnt the driveshaft.. it is going to be the pinion angle and caster. :smart: Not sure how much lift you are running, but being the TJ 44 is a lp axle, it means the pinion is roughly 4-5" lower then the stock axle. The way to fix the pinion angle is with adjustable uppers, but then you run into caster issues :doh: To me, its not really the best choice :shake: If you are dead set on running a d44 up front, find a 73-77 ford hp44 and have it shortened to waggy width, then run some hi-steer knuckles. For the rear I would either run a XJ/MJ d44 with a set of alloys to give you the 5x5.5 to match the front.

I used to frequent many adult entertainment places. :oops: Most of the women who worked there were single moms :???: anyway a lot of them were going to college :smart: but on my dime :hmm: and they were getting child care assistance as well as a housing allowance :rant: here I was working hard :yes: and taking care of buisness. I would love to go back to school :roll: but because I have to pay bills and work I can't afford to, cause it means I would have to stop working(some ) to go. My question is... why should the irresposible ones get al the tax benefits :nuts:

Wow... that sucks man. Now its time to create an action plan and implament it. First and foremost call around to other local dealerships and see if they have a spot. Next update and complete your resume, and go to your states unemployment office. File for benefits, and use the resources they have to find suitable work. Keep in mind lots of auto parts stores love to have knowledgeable ppl. As much as I bash Advance (or similar places) they pay decent on the commercial side for salesman.

Unfortunately that is the American way. Why can't ppl take contorl of their situation and be responsible for their own destinies. All it takes is a lil hard work, and a desire to change and it wil happen. :idea: if these ppl didnt Biatch about their situations, and took that time to find 2 jobs, and lived responsibly... they too can live a better life in due time. :idea: Speaking from experience... not everyone starts at the top.. most have to work for it.. "pay their dues" :eek: and "live right" :???: what does this mean. Use credit responsibly :huh???: only buy what you can afford :nuts: did I mention go to work everyday and try to better yourself :doh: Sorry if I :hijack: or got on my but I feel Americans as a whole have gotten comfortable with the Govt bailing them out.

The question is how long can you do without your rig. A complete engine swap wil take 2-3 days to do it right, and that is if you have all the tools. To swap a crank and oil pump.. well that can take anywhere from 4-8 hours depending on your skill. Then there is the price. Not sure what a new crank and oil pump is going for these days, but I would imagine right around the 200 mark.

The closed system requires periodic monitoring. You have to regularly check the fitting and hoses. A slight pressure leak, and the system can fail easily.

I would look at some of the braided stel lines, before I buy a OE line. Most of the times the difference in price... is small. The Dakota line will work, but like I just pointed out.. you can get a stupid long rear line for 35 bucks.

BUilding a kit yourself.. might not be as cheap as you think. By the time you buy the needed joints and jam nuts you could be well over 200 bucks, just depending on size. Then there is the link material.. Depending on size you could be over 200 bucks just for one stick.. which is enough for a set of LA's. Then you have the brackets you have to make.... I wouldnt even think of making them thinner then 1/4 or 5/16. Did I mention grade 8 hardware :idea: Think about what you want, and how much time you have to make it happen. You might rethink making your own

Mine is the Gen 3 kit. :smart: It does great. Flexes nicely. The install was easy except I ran into issues cause I was running a different trans(pukegoat) then the kit was designed for. Installation could be handles in a day if you had all the tools and a well laid plan. I didnt like the fact that it only had 2 thru frame bolts, and 2 x-member bolts holdin it on.. so I welded mine to the frame. :nuts: After 2 trips no issues so far.

Buy some DOM, and tubing and build a truggy out of the POS. BTW welcome to the site.. stay away from the Tan Couch.. the youngins like sitting there... who knows what they have been doing :doh:

Gas around my place is a solid 2.15 everywhere :banana: but the places that were .10-.15 cents higher are there too. :eek: To me this means that the lower stations are holding out on the last cuts :no: All the same it means more gas for wheeling

:hijack: :no: :dunce: Must say it was a good article though

Yeah ir sounds as if you have one or 2 problems.. Did you reinstall the oil pump properly. I did a bottom end in an engine once and got a BAD oil pump from Advance... they ended up giving me a crank kit for it, but nothing for my labors. The other possible problem is.. your tolerances are way out, and you need new bearings.

Carefull with them yukon alloys... I broke a a short side inner. :doh: Anyways not familar with the kit, but you will have to replace the long side inner axle seal. Then install all the other junk. I hope you didnt pay a whole lot extra for the kit... You could have done the same thing just by removing the shift fork from the VD motor.

WOW you are asking for alot if you want a cheap LA kit with a skid plate. :no: Personally I run the Rock Krawler 3 link set up and love it. Just make sure whatever sytem you go with your shocks are shorter then your brake lines, and your limit strap is shorter then your shocks :smart:

What de did to that poor mj was awful...we can't help we are honest Maybe you should be the good mento and correct their demmented ways :hmm: :fool:

I would have him replace the axle seals, and change the long side (passenger) over to a 1 piece. No more work per say. Definately replace the bearings if you question them.