pingpong

How wide is it? I would be more worried about that then if the spring perches lined up As for how desireable.. with 4.10s and if it had35 spline axles you could get about 150 for it :brows: Most of the time they go for less cause they are not 35 spline. With a lil work could be a nice axle. Change spider gears to a later 30 spline setup, and get a set of FF yukon shafts for 200 or so and call it good.

Just about every trip I went on... 2 big ones. Drove Pong to Tellico when it was still street legal :eek: tried an insane line on guard rail. ended up breaking a front short side shaft, breaking my lock right, and bending my rear axle all in 2 minutes. :oops: Took pong to Paragon after it became a truggy. Had a blast.. took a stupid new trail broke a moly inner shaft.. then the next day I let the same person pick the next trail... well another shaft later as well as a set of winch solenoids, and a radiator got off the trail. Got mad at the d30 breaking so I sold my axles... now my rig is waitng for me to finish (money) my truggy again

Lets face it.. The president is just an over paid CEO.. that sets policy. Congress makes the rules and passes amendments. You know why there is no real progress being made... Look at the bridge to no where and all the other things congressman attatch to bills. Know why ther is no social security reform.. Most congress man and delegates recieve a substantial pension even only after serving one term.

Thats awesome

Pong who is a 90 mj had a 23 spline output np231.

For the money you could find a HPd44 and 9" totally rebuild them and use TNT fron axle truss and have a better stronger setup then using JK axles. The only problem with using a TJ d4 is it is LP, and with lifts over 6" you run into issues

NO thats not what you need. Thats is for the differential (ring and pinion) what you need are axle bearings, bearing retaining ring, oil seal.

Look around on the net. I almost did one in the turd. I ended up doing a lock right instead cause it still sees street duty. To me the only advantage to running a mini spool instead of welding is.. it can be reversed. Meaning if you can't stand the way it works.. you can pull it back out, or if you move up in gear ratio's and have to change your carrier you can move it to the new carrier. Most of the time when you weld spider gears.. you are not getting them back out.. especially if done right.

Vote for "JOE The Plumber"

Quick lesson on Long arms. Basically it relocates the mounting point. On the TNT kit it uses what is refered to as a "radias Arm". This was first used in OE rigs by ford. Your axle is held in place by 2 long lowers, and it has a short upper which is used to adjust pinion angle and caster. It uses a Track bar to keep the axle centered. Then ther is the 3 link ( rock krawler kit). It uses to long lowers like a radias arm, but then it has a upper link that is almost as long as the lowers (actually could be the same length or a touch longer). It too uses a track bar. The only reason why I said bigger axles is.. no need in staying with 1/4 ton axles if you plan on wheeling. Also with a 6k budget you could build one heck of a strong rig, that could be wheeled and driven reliabley. Keeping the Stock d30 and wheeling is a sketchy at best. Upgrading with alloys, and other goodies, can put you close to d44 cost depending on the deal you can find. If you go with the 8.8 I stongly recommend going with the super 8.8 kit from superior. Fixes the main weakness in the axle being the "c" clip feature. Just make sure to weld the tubes to the pumpkin. The last reason I said go with the d44 more ratio's to choose from.

I prefer Alloy USA. I don't know if they make a kit for the MJ amc 20. When you order make sure you get the right kit. The amc 20 came under a few different rigs, and they were different widths. My kit for my XJ d44 was 260. That including bearings retainer rings, retainer plates, oil seal, lug nuts and wheel studs. You will need acces to a press to install the bearings and retaining ring.

The aw4 x member is different then the ax 15 x memeber. Basicaly you will need brake pedal/clutch assembly a manual trans flywheel and clutch slave cylinder x member I might be wrong on this.. I think the manual and auto throttle bodies are different.

I would definately look at rebuilding the whole axle, especially given your current symptom. Keep in mind some new axle kits include bearings and all the associated stuff. I know it was cheaper for me to swap Chromo's in then it would have been to buy everything piece meal

I have done it the way I described, but I see your point where it could go the other way.

More then likely that is it. They reall don't like being shifted when twisted up. BTW I just got the engine off of the trailer what a PITA. should have put it to the rear instead of the front :oops:

When I was driving Pong.. you don't know how many ppl told me nice YOTA :nuts: The drivng the Turd I get asked "what is it?", "why did you do that?", one person even asked me " did it come tfrom the factory like that?"

With the RIGHT equipment I rate this a 3-4. You basically need to know how to change an axle shaft. Tool wise you will need at least a 12 ton press(20 is preferred) a good torque wrench and about 2 hrs. If you decide to do this.. do not lose the shim packs from either side.

I don't remember that engine having an issue with blow by.. which is why I kept it. Rings might need to reseat. You can always hook up a CJ style PCV style system. I will explain more if you are intrested. Your RPMs are a lil high. Ideally you want to turn the same as stock which should be under 2000rpms. So I say 35's would be a good move up. The T-case.... I would try adjusting you linkage, but it is not uncommon for them to take a second or two to disengage

Welding a D35 is just asking to get stranded. I have seen ppl snap them on the streets, and its not pretty. I have welded more then one set of gears in my life. There are 2 ways of doing it. One is to weld the spiders together in 4 corners, and it works, but the welds can break especially if you are a throttle happy person. My prefeered method it to fill all the spider gears in with weld :nuts: and to weld a piece of plate to the back side if its a c clip axle, but if its a non c-clip axle burn plate in on both sides :eek: At the same time mini spools are cheap (most under 75) and have the same effect.

I am a jeep abuser and have hurt more then one d30 :oops: Here is what I now do to upgrade them. Obviously regear to your choice of ratios; but get a 30 spline locker for it :nuts: (same as a stock d44) Upgrade to a set of Alloy Usa shafts (or comprable other. Stay away from Yukon Broke one and wasnt even at the u-joint, was in the splines). Besides that the only other thing you get from a d44 is the Manual hubs, but there are conversion kits for that (pricey). The problem with using a d44 for the front is except for a tj's you will have to weld mounts on. Also since the d30 is a hP running a LP d44 can cause other issues. If you run a HP d44 you are full width and that creates other problems as well.

D44 front and rear with a decent set of Chromo's can put up with a lot. If you got a nasty v-8 I would go d60's just cause to build a d44 to handle the abuse it would cost almost as much as a d60

I always get a little worried when I hear of people swapping in old gears. :D If the gears are set up right used gears can be a cheap alternative to having to buy new parts. I have used the several times and had no issues. I think the issues come in when some one who doesn't know what they are doing tries to install them.

D44 front and rear with 4.88's with aussie in the rear, and a arb up fornt. Including axles that should be about 3 grand. Front long arm/ 3 link setup. Really like Rock krawler, or TNT customs for that 1000 right there. The last 2 grand could be used to armor up your jeep. Interior cage, with nice suspension seats and 5 points is what I would do.

Well I am more worried about my job then anything else. We are in contract neg. and the company has said they are going to reduce the hourly workforce by 15% (66)ppl by the fall of 2009. I just got demoted due to the elimination of 4 jobs in my department. So now I am in the labor pool at work. Currently I am still in the same department, but that could change. The silver lining in all of that it I am the 4 person on the labor pool list.. which means they are 30+ ppl behind me. My house we owe just over 50K and it is valued at almost 200k per assesment, actual value is more like 150 or so... so real good there. Wife is a Pharmacy Tech, so she has good employability. She can start having a real commute to work (right now her commute is 5 min.) for roughly 10K more a yr. My 401k..WOW I have lost some value, but when I started to see some of the funds I was invested in stop paying dividends... I changed my stuff up to target retirement funds. Last time I checked, I was loosing money.. but only pennies per shares.. not dollars. I am also putting as much as I can afford each week into my 401k... its a clearance sale right now.. buy cheap sell high :brows:

I have always ran lock rights.. supposedly the engineer who designed lock right re did the weak parts and made the Ausie locker. I broke part od one of my lock rights, and they honored their warranty and sent me a new one. So basically I was made whole.. no issue