pingpong

I got a RigidCO. I have had for about 2 yrs now. The bumper looks great and has taken some serious abuse :eek: I am making my own on the Turd.. just cause the rigid co bumper really affects your approach angle. (it might be any of the aftermarket bumpers though) a few times I had to bump a rock so I could get my tires on the obstacle

I have never had a problem with Yukon honoring their warranty. I personally broke a inner chromoloy axle shaft from them. I called the retailer I bought it from, and they had a new one on the shelf... so they just exchanged it for my broke one. Maybe it was my retailer being a stand up guy...

In that lil news piece I noticed most of the cars that were rolled/featured were out west. This is where the sun and heat from the roads cause tire seperations from heat. At the same time I know I have had tires dry rot in my garage from sitting. Granted its not climate controlled, but how many of them storeage whare houses are? I also agree it seems that this is a way for lawyers to legally extort manufacturers. I wonder if the tires were properly rotated and balanced all their life?

The stuff is preety strong and rough to breathe. CARC paint is tough as nails though

I had one too :eek: I actually loved that car. I would say they are reasonably fast.. especially considering it is a 2.5. Mine was an Automatic, which from what I found later was kinda a rarity.

I used them on Pong when Pong was a street driver. I had 35 BFG's on it. I loved it, I had zero vibes, but all of my axle parts where"new". I have heard of some ppl having issues with the beads if they have worn front end parts

I know of one person who broke a set of genuine gears. sheared the pinion. I know of another person who broke a set of yukons, but by the way the teeth were broke it looked like a bad install

I was just wondering.. cause I did hard long burn outs on stock axle shafts and had no issue :nuts: That and I figured it had to be their kit. As for welding the center section.... to properly weld cast you need High nickel rod. The housing should be heated. This is done for two reasons.. one to burn off containaments (sp) and to align the metal molecules. Cooling should also be done slowly. Some even wrap it with fire proof insulation to slow the cooling process even more

I like it :brows:

If you want to do this on the cheap.. here you go. 30's will clear stock just a lil rub when turning. Buy yourself some chevy drop shackles, and a coil spacer. Look at my webshot site and you will see a few different lift setups on MJ's and xj's. I will tell you get what you pay for in lift kits, lots of kits are cheap, but they leave out the details. Adam at Motion Offroad is very knowledgable, and will help figure stuff out if needed. He also keeps you well informed on your order.

Mine stays in 1-2 and low range... at least for the most part.

I ran a 8.8 in Pong on 35's for a lil while. I am going to give my opinion on the whole setup. Buy a set of cutom made perches, that are longer then stock. Helps with antiwrap. BUy a Blue Torch fab or similar beefy cover cause the stock one does not like abuse. I used Spider Trax wheel spacers on Both sides.. no issues with balancing, or wobbling. Use spring plates from a full size ford... Buy your u-bolts from the dealer... they are special. You can switch the companion flange from the explorer over to a u-bolt design yoke( I don't think it protects the u-joint as well or is as strong the companion flange though. XJ craxy.... I have to ask you whose kit did you use? What was the circumstances that you broke it... where you doing burnouts on the asphalt, or shock loading you axle?

I like the oil pan one :nuts: Might have to make myself one. The otheres are Bad @$$ but they are huge and would be a hassle to store and keep shiney

Well I have had nothing but EXCELLENT service from Adam. Have you tried PMing before you bash him in the open?

Your last question is kinda a loaded one. If you regear properly and install a SYE and maintain the correct steering geometry. The answer is it doesn't. I drove Pong around on 33's then 35's for about a yr :eek: It wasnt until I started really bashing on it that I stopped driving it on the road. For the Shackle measurement 53/4" IIRC sounds stock

30's and 31's will fit stock, but they might rub on the LCA's at full lock. A 2" BB will clear 31's nicely and look good. With heavy trimming and proper bumpstopping you can clear 32/33's. 3" you can clear 32's with no trimming.. with minor trimming 33's 4.5" anything smaller then 33's look small. As for what will fit.. that depends on how much you like your sheetmetal. The whole SYE debate. You don't need it up to 3" but after that you lose spline engagement on you yoke, so you either have to lengthen your driveshaft, or put a SYE in and lengthen your shaft. Also with the SYE you have the ability to pull your rear shaft and drive home in front wheel drive if needed

Well picked it up from the fab shop today. Eddie at Groundpounder Fab did a great job. Now that I have it home it is time to finish it up. Still need to Paint the cage Install harnesses Install "new" front and rear axles/disc brake swap on rear Install new front suspension kit Fix and neaten up the interior wiring Swap transmisions Build belly skid I want to be done by the first week of July.. I might make it

I think lots were sold in rural areas.... a few yrs ago I saw them everywhere.. no I am starting to see less and less

What are they? - Some heavily modded military thing or a new idea? Basically they are a hibrid axle. If I remember correctly they are custom built hiclearance axles. There was a right up on them in Crawl a yr ago I think. They are just pure beef... Thing rockwell strength with Portal axle clearance

Them Overkill axles are just pure works of art.. wish I had 2 of them :brows:

Unfortunately scrap steel prices have gone through the roof, which is causing ppl to crush vehicles wide open. That being said the renix era/late 80's jeep's were known for a few problems, and most backyard mechanics screwed them up worse by trying to fix them, so they became junk... now with ppl scavenging country roads to "pick up unwanted cars" they are getting crushed at an alarming rate

Hey Jeff if you come back down and help with another tranny swap I will give you a flywheel :brows: Seriously.. I won't need the Turds flywheel after I swap over to an automatic :brows: So as always I will pay it forward if you need it.

Can I get some more info on how to adapt exploder disc on to my d44?

This depends on the condition of the paint, and the kind of spray paint you are using. I personally paint my rigs with rustoleom flat black and have never sanded it. Paint looked good and has held up well. I would sand as little as possible, cause the original paint still offers rust protection. If I had to sand.. it would be to only "smooth" out were the paint is peeling or clearcoat is bubbled. I would use a fine grit like 280 or 320

Got some more pics to show here you can see how the "A" and "B" pillar are tied together as well as the seat mounts The specially clearanced trans tunnel. This bar also connects the "B" pillar at the base Seat mount tabs all the seat bars were a PITA according to Eddie. Just real close to the floor The floor had some high clearance done on the drivers side too These seats I acquired in a trade yrs ago... needed a project to put them in. They are high back reclining with sliders.. so they will do With both seats in I will still be able to put a center console in