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pingpong

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Everything posted by pingpong

  1. What I did when I first did my SYE was get a measurement and called Tom woods. Then when I truggied my rig I just had it retubed (only cause it had trail damage, otherwise it would have been just shortened). BTW I am Jealous of the fact you have a Lathe :oops:
  2. Could also be Sky jacker springs. ONly 2 companies I know of that use red
  3. Well my plan of attack is as follows. I am going to order a new set of bearings :eek: and a set of TJ d44 disc retainers. Then I will redrill the reatainer plate. This will eliminate the step of me having to use a spacer.
  4. Yeah Adam and I figured it out when I bought the RK set up for the turd. Basically the puke goat uses the front set of holes in the frame, where the RK kit uses where the front two holes for drill through mounts. I planned on swapping transmisions anyway, but if you didnt I think building a mounting plate to sit on top of the x-memeber at the back holes and drilled to support them at the front holes would be very doable.
  5. Depending on what ratio you have/need pick n parts ussually sell complete axle for around 129 out the door if you don't bring them a core. Way cheaper then having gears installed. Just a d30 install kit is 85 and 105 :headpop:
  6. The Fab shop doing my cage has expressed minor intrest in making up the bumper brackets for the rear bumper as well as some generic front bumper mounts. I was going to make bumpers and sliders last yr, but by the time I started to get set up to start making brackets and stuff... there just wasnt enough profit for me to turn down overtime at work to make parts, so I shelved the idea. I still have my drawings and vehicle to make templates and jigs off of, just no time or extra cash to invest in the project. When I go to pick the Turd up, I plan on bring him the drawings and brackets I have all ready made. We will just have to wait and see what happens
  7. Really not enough space. The deck is only like 23" off the gound. It all ready sucks to have to carry an axle.. I can only imagine dragging one :eek:
  8. Wade You took what I had to say wrong. I am trying to talk the guy that is doing my cage work into building sliders and bumpers for the MJ's but he griped to me about how back yard fabbers kept telling him.. how much they could build them for :eek: So he has shown some intrest...in making them.. I have offered to let him use one of my rigs so he can do templates and build a jig. Might happen.. might not
  9. Removing welded spider gears is a PITA. New carriers are around 40 bucks plus spiders and thrust washers. ONly catch is if you change carriers you will need to have the gears set back up again. So this leaves you at step one.. removing the welded spiders. to me there is only one option smoke wrench them out, since they are no good to you any more.
  10. well your lucky because i smashed both rockers before realizing i needed rock rails. i made mine, and all said and done i had $80 into them. Not trying to bash you Wade, but this needs to be said. The main reason why many fab shops are not making them is the above stated attitude... " I can make them for this". What home fabbers forget to figure into the cost is time and materials.... yes 80 bucks might buy the steel, but it won't pay for the welding wire/rods, flap wheels or hardware. Then you forget to figure in the cost of having a shop and a buisness license. Lets not forget the fabber has a family to feed and wants to make a living.
  11. We could have done it faster if we had access to a torch :brows: I try not to unbolt things if I can help it. Removing the brake calipers could make it easier.. but in the past when I have done coils, and spacers I have never done that. Also Unhooking the track bar is not needed unless you are changing it. My experience is it is always harder to bolt things back together, then it is to try and muscle it a lil. Coil compressors can make this job easier.. but I wouldnt run out and buy any...to just put spacers in. Heck I have put 6.5" coils in with the above listed steps :D
  12. 1. unbolt the sway bar end links 2. unbolt the shocks 3.Jack vehicle up and support the vehicle by the frame 4. Place a floor jack under the axle 5.lift on side of the axle up and let the other side hang down... remove coil 6.place coil spacer on bumpstop mount 7. place coilback in...you might need to force the axle down to get the coil back in
  13. More then likely since it is a 5 spdw/ 4.0 you have 3.07. If you had an automatic you would have 3.55.
  14. Basically I have to pull any parts I need/ might need that I can fit in my garage and get rid of anything else that I was storing out side :oops: Not really a big deal except that I am trying to build a deck at the same time. Here is as far as the deck has gotten
  15. Is your caster right on your front axle.. that will also cause your tires to sit funny like that
  16. That was the writeup I have been looking at for guidance. I planned on using the late model TJ backing plates, and just redrilling the holes :eek: or at least try. That way you don't have to make the spacer. I just pressed some bearing on.. hoping I can press them back off with out destroying them :nuts: If not... I might just hold off a few weeks.
  17. Yeah Jeff its all fun and games till you have to start getting rid of parts :cry: The home owners association has cracked the whip and got the county involved. Needless to say I have a limited amount of time to get my yard straight :oops: So now I can store "spare" parts out side no more. All this means is I get to build a bigger garage :eek: Anyway back on topic. Eddie at Ground Pounder Fab has been plugging along on my cage work. I got some more pics this morning so I will post them up. Here you can see the roof bracing as well as how it all ties in together here you can see the nicely fit joints Here is the a pillar bracing go back to the center Here you can see the all important dash bar Might seem like overkill But Eddie has wheeled with me/ or I like wheeling with Edddie :cheers: and he knows this thing will be tested more then likely :nuts:
  18. Congrats :cheers:
  19. I have a dilema.. my d44 need all new brakes. It needs drums, brake shoes hardware kit, and wheel cylinders. Before I go spend what I am sure is going to be almost 200 bucks on drum brakes, I was wondering who has done a disc swap on the rear and what parts did they use, and from where if new.
  20. I will call you tommorow and tell you what is going on.. I have a situation you might be able to help with.
  21. Yeah it kinda does :D I want to get transmisions swapped and suspension on. I am almost ready to wheel this thing :nuts:
  22. The rig I am building now (the Turd)is going to be a DD until it recieves more trail beating, but to be safe I wanted a "GOOD" cage built, and believe it or not... it is a lot less then you would think to have one built by a Proffesional. This was taken at Paragon in Oct 05 in the play ground area. Basically he rolled over backwards doing a hill climb. This was close to closing time.. so wedidnt hang around to find out what the total damage was. but by the looks of it.. he lost his radiator and front winshield at least. A grille hoop and a decent inerior cage could have limited his damage.
  23. Just a pic of the Rock Krawler kit. I got this from Motion Offroad. I recieved it a week before I thought I would :D
  24. Not really on the swap question, but when I bought my 3/4 ton truck I looked at getting a deisel, but there was a 9k difference in price so I got the gas motor, and got made fun of :oops: but that was right after Katrina hit New Orleans, and gas spiked. Fast forward 3yrs and now deisel is almost 5 bucks a gallon, plus the 9k buy in Boy am I glad I got the gas motor.
  25. ON a roll/flop safety note. Stock TJ/YJ/CJ cages are not meant to do but so much. I think the first mod to any rig should be a cage of some sort. I used to not think that way till I seen a couple of xj's flop and take serious damage (luckily everyone walked away) Also stock seatbelts offer lil or no protection in the event of a hard flop or roll. Buy a set of harneses and mount them to the floor if you have to. Better way is to have the seats mounted to the cage as well as the harnesses. I will post up some pics of the way my seats and harneses are going to mount in the Turd in a day or so. BTW glad you walked away with only minor damage.. just go to show you anything can happen when you go wheeling
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