pingpong

MPJAI is having a Punkin run up at Misty Mountain Camp ground in Crozet.. check out mpjai.com and look at the future trail rides and you will see it. They even got cool shirts made up, but you need to order them by friday

I have one I will give you if you come and get it.. otherwise.. to the scrap yard for 8 bucks (what it weighs in scrap)

I just seen a station on my way home for 2.99. They had on the news yesterday a gas station 50 miles form me with 2.82 in Hampton Va

had a similar issue when I went to put 92 era wheel hubs on using 87 era rotors.. It don't work. I did find out that a NON "C" clip D35 axle brake backing plate is the same as a xj d44 though. That being said, I guess you could bolt the whole setup on, using the d35 drums, and it SHOULD work

Not sure what it takes on the 2wd, but a lot of ppl are wunning Wj knuckles on the passenger side only. I believe Rusty's or some other cookie cutter off road out fit makes the spacer the 4wd users need so they can continue to run the same stub shaft.

Ford np208 are drivers side drop. They are a touch bigger then a np231. don't know if they are stronger or not. My plan wasnt to use a NP208 though.. I was going to use a np231, since I have one with a SYE in it not being used. Anyway.. I decided I am going with an AX15 since someone I know has kindly offered it up to me on another board :beerhead: I guess being the cool guy always willing to help out/trade stuff pays off once in a while. Jeff when you think you are going to be out my way.. we need to make a trans swap happen ;)

Sweet.. You going to go on the Punkin Run.. Its only 23 bucks a night at the camp ground.. some light wheeling on site. :nuts:

It depends on the shape of your current paint job, and how different the color you are going to use. If I was going the same color, or close to it, I would just scuff the paint, using a 240 or 260 grit. Making sure to blow it down and wipe it before sparing any of it. If you are doing a drastic color change like blue to white.. well then I would definately use a primer, and scuff the primer with a 600 grit.

Ok as some of you know I am wheeling a Puke goat in the Turd :nuts: I have a spare t-18 sitting in the garage :driving: as well as the t-case adapter that it had in the truck. It came out of an 85 f150 and the t-case behind it was a np208. Now on to my question.. what all is invovled in doing this swap? Is it a worthwhile swap? Or should I just hold out and find a ax15 and swap that in?

So far it looks like I will be there saturday. Might even have Chuck with me. I am going to be bringing my 5x8 trailer instead of trying to load the motor in the back of the truck.

I just did a disc brake swap on the Turd's D44. Basically you need a TJ rubicon/d44 backing plates, and a stock xj backing plate. What I did was I took the brake caliper mounts and backing plates down to a machine shop and had them redrill the caliper mounts and retainer plates, as well as machine out the center hole. Here is a pic of the retainer plates. I also had issues with lack of braking, so I ended up getting a ZJ prop valve and swapping over the proportioning valve spring, and there is a big difference. You also can go to my webshots page and see the whole build up. The pages with the d44 stuff on it are 6 and 7. Also Alloy USA has Chromo axle shaft kits for under 300 bucks for 30 spline, not sure what the 33 spline kits cost. If you go this route get the TJ kit with disc brakes, it will save you a few bucks for retainer plates. For e-brake cables, Terraflex(or whatever they are called now) has longer brake line reasonable, or you can do a line lock from summit/jegs

I feel so proud.. just about all his drivetrain came from my spare parts bin :eek: Nice Job Jeff.

I am impressed :D

IN my area as the storms hit the coast gas was 3.40 ish. After the storms hit it was just shy of 4 dollars. So needless to say my driving habits changed to reflect. Now gas is back at 3.50 ish. In my area ppl who buy large amounts of fuel and let them sit have been having issues with FI and carbs getting gummed up. The general consensus is that the ethanol in fuel is mixing with the humidity (water) and cause it either to become milky or syrupy. I have been adding stabil to any of my rigs and lawn equipment that sit over 30 days. Also thinking about draining allmy tanks on rigs I don't use. Its either that or finding a way to circulate the fuel every few days so it doesnt happen

Wow... I have run BFG MT's and was disappointed with the sidewalls (2 times). I have run the x-terrians.. and did not like them. I had wear issues. I have no a set of Pro Comp At's with great resultsd for an AT. Even went places that bigger and better tired rigs could not go. Laslty I have run Mud rovers on the trail only, and have been pleased with them so far. My next set of tires is going to be either a set of LTB's or TSl's for the Turd. I am hoping the upgrade will help me when I am trying to do the crazy stuff I like to run

I would like to see how you mounted the front leafs...got build pics. BTW thats a cool rig... I would change a few things on it though :driving:

They would work fine.. not much if any difference in the size of the axle tubes. Just need someone who knows his way around a welding machine. Heck I have been known to weld up3/8 to 1/2" gaps in one pass with the tombstone. :eek: Can weld bigger ones with a backing strap :brows:

I am game.. I think we should piggy back it off of another big event that way it will be bigger. I am sure there will be another United 4 Wheel drive wheel in. They do that in the spring. Or if you all want we could set up to go somewhere on our own.

Well the thing about them shows are they are nothing but a giant commercial. They give the show the parts to build a vehicle. Just watch the shows and watch how they plug products that are great, and some that are shall we say crap at best. My experience with Rusty's is poor servie and long shipping. If you see anything you like on their site.. look at the other major companies and call around I am positive someone has the same product.

When it comes to jeep knowledge I know lil.. when it comes to wheeling I know less, even though I try and do both a lot. A lot of things ppl post is just recycled material. I tried posting on Naxja yrs ago, and got bashed cause I payed someone to do my cage work :eek: Pirate well,, there is a lot of good info, but you have to wade through a lot of poo poo to get it.

Another link.. lots of pics I am in a few of them http://outlawjeep.shutterfly.com/

I am game for that, but I don't have a wheelable MJ right now... I got a wheelable XJ. I am in VA

These are links to ppl in the club I belong too there are not too many pics of my rig cause I was the third in line :nuts: All that means is you get to do the obstacle and wait.. butit works http://2008annualtrailride.shutterfly.com/ http://gallery.me.com/vanrowe#100119 http://liferox.shutterfly.com/ I will post up more later

I just got done wheeling my XJ, and wish I had about another 4" of wheel base :eek: Currently I am running the stock setup with a skid row skid. You might be able to widen the tank quite a bit by using the hitch/skid mounting holes. My only concern with doing that is you will be supporting a lot of weight with fuel and metal with 6 bolts. Also if it was me, I would run an inline pump instead of an in tank one

Depending on why you want to build your own tank I wonder why you don't use a pre-made fuel cell. Either way if you are building it, make sure you put a vent with roll over protection in it, as well as a return and pressure line. Most of the pre-made cell have 3 bungs welded to them, and well as a spot for the fuel sender to be bolted in, and of course a fuel fill spot.