pingpong

The first rig is what gave me the idea on how to truggy the rear of my junk

Maybe their stuff has changed, but for the most part their stuff is junk. ALso their customer service sucks donkey balls. I can vouche for this myself.

I really like how you did the hood. I would have made the raised part a lil narrower, but that is me personally. ANd Wahoo :no: Most scouts are way beyond body repair, but the frames ussually stay good. That being said the frames are made out of boxed tubing 1/4 thick. There is a junkyard right up the road from where I live that has about 15 of them in there.. Including an ambulance IH.

You shouldnt have Death wobble from doing a lift install. You might have to much caster, or a toe in/out problem. Caster you can measure with a degree finder.. set it on top of your upper Ball joint. should be around 7*. If you have to much or too lil angle it will cause the rig to feel like you are driving on ice. The toe in you are going to want a 1/8 to 1/4 toed in. If not you will have driveability and tire wear issue.

Well, I never mad much luck with it. Always seem to get in the way. You have to pull it to change the alt. then it does hurt your approach a lil.. especially if you wheeling tends to be a lil more abusive. I ended up totally changing my front bumper design so I could get my tires on the rocks.. and I can see where the skid plate could get in the way too in more extreme situations.

on the right coast... pnp have axles for 130 and that is on full price day :eek: if you could find a set of axles with 4.10's in it.. even at 300 might be a good deal depending on how much your install labor would be. Like I said install kit is around 100 bucks.. plus carrier, plus gears.. then you have to figure labor on that too. If you had a d35 rear I could sell you a set of 4.10's cheap.

That scout is definately what I would consider "RARE". Especially considering most rusted away to nothing in a few short yrs. That and the Diesel option was rare in its own right.. not too many were built. Plus it has the truck cab on it instead of the long topper. Only thing I have to say is fully boxed frame with a d44 front and rear.. and it would make an awesome start to a buggy/truggy. As long as you kept the weight down

I havent priced a new carrier in a while but last time I bought one it was under 30 bucks(been 3 yrs ago). I wouldn't let the thought of having to buy a new carrier discourage me from going to a 3.73 and up. For the D44 you can get a set of "thick" gears and still use the lower carrier if I remember right. My d44 had 3.55's in it and that is what I did.

What are you going to do with the scout when you are done

You say that.. but when I was making Pong a truggy they moved my thread to some pics site cause I was paying to have my tubing bent. They said it wasnt advance fab :???:

I only hope it is a close game. I would like to see the Cardinals win.. just because they havent in modern history.

That is what sucks about chap 7 bankruptcy. The company I work for just filled for chap 11. I am sorry to hear of your fate.. I pray it doesnt happen to me. At least in my area they are telling you in the adds how much they are taking off the price. Car Audio is 40% camera's 25% I believe tv's are 25, Cd's and DVD's is like 10-25%. While not great deals.. still better then no discount.

Comanche club going world wide :cheers:

I will put them on the prayer list at church and pray for them as well.

I believe Jeff Posted up what shocks work and are cheap. Search this thread and I am sure you will find it.

Nice project man.. I can't wait till it is done

I see a ledge that looks like it would be an awesome drop :dunce:

Follow directions in the service manual. I think they say to put the t-case in nuetral. The really isnt that much "safe"payload capicity... maybe 500 to 1000 pounds depending on the condition of the springs.

To be honest.. it is cheaper to swap the whole axle then the gears when it comes to a d30. An install kit will cost you a hundred bucks plus the labor. You can buy a pick and pull axle for 129 without the core.. cheaper if you have a core. I also don't think there will be enough of a difference unless you go to 4.10's or 4.46's to justify the expense.

Whenever I have done a SOA ( 4 to date) I have never been able to reuse the shocks that were on the vehicle. Think about it.. You are shortening the distance by at least 4" most shocks only have 5-6" of up travel.. you will see more then 2" of travel just driving up and down the road.

I have seen plent of mj's and xj's with them. I pull them off all my rides.. they just get in th way if you wheel hard

Heck if I was going that big.. I would cut and turn the front knuckles to reduce the angles, for the rear.. well set the pinion pointed at the t-case.. and runa SYE and call it good.

Not really complicated.. You just use the 4 bolt holes on the bottom, plus the additional holes for the x member.. then maybe a 2 or 3 frame sleeves. All could be done with 31/2x31/2 x 3/16 angle for the side and some 1x4x1/4 C channel.

The 3 along the front of the radiator x-meber were more like studs, As for the 2 on each side I can't remember the size or thread pitch. I found having the skid plate got in the way more then it helped

Sound like you need to give up wood working or start wearing hockey goalie equipment :dunno: