Geonovast

I spent 20 minutes at an Advanced Auto explaining to them what a pilot bearing was.

Get factory perches from the dealer. They'll be for the correct tube size, actually shouldn't be expensive, and length will be fine. Shocks aren't an issue if you're staying SUA. The spring plates in the MJ are what the shocks mount to. Set the pinion angle the same as the D35.

I may be wrong, but didn't I read once that long beds and short beds used different brackets?

You need play in the radiator hoses to compensate for engine vibrations..

Round, as in circular? Possibly an AMC 20... I've never seen torx bolts on a diff cover. You should have 3.55. The 2.5/4 speed combo generally came with 3.55 axle gearing. You can check the ratio by jacking up one rear tire, putting the trans in neutral, and spinning the tire twice, and count the number of times the driveshaft spins. If it spins just over 3 1/2 times, it's 3.55. If it spins just over 4, it's 4.10.

what about the atlas t-case? or the NV3550 I think the main reason not the replace the gauge cluster was so that no one could say anything about the mileage being off. Eh... when I went to a full gauge cluster in both my MJs, I kept the original speedo in the new cluster.

All that work to keep it going and nice, and he has a butt ugly aftermarket racing tach instead of upgrading to the full cluster... :shake:

I think it's safe to say that any vehicle with a solid rear axle cannot be adjusted. There's nothing to adjust. Front solid axle vehicles should also, for the most part, have no difference between 2wd and 4wd. Luckily, yours has both. No alignment in the back, no difference between 2wd and 4wd for the front. If all you need is a toe alignment, you can easily do it yourself, after they screw it up.

ZERO difference. 2wd and 4wd on our trucks use the exact same steering and suspension components.

Check your fluid, and check for leaks around your tranny cooler lines.

Attempting to read caps makes my eyes hurt.

YJ

Suit and tie is certainly acceptable, although I've never been to a ceremony with a strict dress code. I never had to worry about it, since I simply wore my uniform to any and all scouting events. When I received my Eagle (my brother and I shared a ceremony, since we earned them less than 6 months apart), there wasn't much in the way of gifts. Mostly cards. I got a couple Scout related gifts, such as a Silver Dollar with an Eagle on the back that had never been touched by human hands. A few cards with money, but mostly not. Being an Eagle Scout, he should be quite grateful with just your presence and a card.

:cheers: :clapping: :banana: :jump:

BTW, it's 31-25, GB leading, 1:59 left in the game and the Pack just kicked it to the losers.

What's radio?

Pete neglected to mention this is for labor. Parts can add a few hundred more.

I know higher flowing water pumps are available, however I don't believe they were ever stock. I'm 99% sure the reverse rotation pumps were a thing with the 2.5. Correct, the exhaust ports stayed put. The intake ports moved for the HO head. If your header has a thing for the EGR, make sure to block it off. The HO intake will not have provisions for the EGR pipe.

:hmm: Any chance you could grab a pic of your fuse box? I'm lost.

Possible. - but unlikely. If you're burning coolant, I would first look at the head gasket, then the head before blaming the block.

Well you got the first half part right. Let's also hope you get the second half right too. :D Let's not. :shake: Regardless of whether or not the Packers win, the rest of the game has to be better than this half time show.

I'm pretty sure mine has a 5 stamped in the plastic casing. Regardless, it's no longer an issue of the fuse continually blowing. All that means is that someone could have put an incorrect fuse in it. I'm not saying that's definitely the problem, just suggesting that someone (I can't because I don't have a user manual handy) should check and see what fuse should be in there. Last time I dealt with it, I remember it being a 10A, just sayin'.

Isn't the tail light/dash light fuse supposed to be a 10A?

Not sure which wires, but you should just hardwire it into power mode and forget the switch.

Yeah, they went and changed the size of the hole in the back of the crank in 92, right when they changed the size of the tip of the input shaft. Nope, those motors are long gone, sorry. That block was probably crap anyway.