Geonovast

BFH? :thwak: :shake:

You can also use a T-case drop kit to level out the trans with a non-AX-15 crossmember.

Usually they're stuck with the motors, since when you pull the trans, the plate is still nudged between the block and flywheel, stuck in there with the alignment pegs. You have to pull the trans back a good two inches, and you may need to remove the alignment dowels to get the plate in/out without bending it.

It's both. The crossmember for the AX-15 is different than the one for every other transmission. The AX-15 crossmember has a dip in the middle.

That's probably your issue.

How's your balancer looking?

Was that actually from any of the series', or did some fan just make it up?

You guys need to like, not have the same avatar.

Your CAD has failed. It's the only possibility if you know the T-case is engaging and you know the diff hasn't ground itself to dust. Pop the vacuum motor off and take a look inside. If just the motor has crapped out on you, lock it over permanently. viewtopic.php?f=9&t=18415

You said rotor is pointing to #1 at the correct time. If you mean TDC, that's not correct. It should be pointing just past #1 at TDC. Also, are you sure it wasn't indexed on the exhaust stroke? Did you ever have the dist out?

You can use an in-line spark tester to see if they're sparking in the motor.

Rob, I've used your method for breaking them loose and torquing them down, but it's been easier, at least for me, to do it with the front shaft out and with a wrench. Luckily most of my CPS changing history has been on a HO 2.5, which is freaking cake.

Is it 4wd? If so, drop the front driveshaft!! I've been able to change the CPS on an 88 4.0/auto/4wd by dropping the front shaft and making friends with a 12 pt 11mm wrench. And no, I don't have small arms. If you're feeling lucky you can get a jack on the trans, and pull the crossmember bolts out of the framerail to lower it down. If you're feeling really, really lucky, that is.

The best thing to do with comments from Darren is ignore them. He is not a prime example of the members of this board. I can't help you with your question, but you never learn anything if you don't ask. People tend to get a little harsh with suspension questions if you don't already know what you're doing, because of the safety involved.

its a standard 5 speed and its a us and i don't know if it is a california or not. I'm in wisconsin so i assume it isnt a california truck What part of WI?

Where are you grounding to when checking for spark? The grounding strap from the head bolt to the firewall might be shot. You could be getting spark outside the block, but not with the plug in the motor.

Only 873 Have 25 or more posts (from Jeeper to I can spell Comanche) 1273 Have 2-25 posts. 294 Have 1 post. Leaves 1560 accounts with no posts. Better than most forums, I'd say.

There is literally no reason to not lock the CAD when it becomes problematic.

Does it make any difference if you're moving or not?

This is a bit puzzling then. If there's no leaks, everything's bled properly, and nothing's missing, it should be fine. I guess my next suggestion is to just bleed the hell out of it a few times.

Does the clutch pushrod still have the plastic piece on the end that goes to the shift fork?

99.9% sure my dad's 91 XJ Laredo had one.

I don't mean standard I-own-a-Jeep-so-I-can beating the piss out of it. I mean beating the piss out of it. Like locked on D60s with 44s beating the piss out of it. Now, if you're bored and want something to do, so you decided to put an AX-15 behind the 2.5, then go nuts. I just can't see it being cost effective.

I hide mine when I'm driving, too. Nobody should know what it is.

Unless you're really beating the piss out of it, the AX-4/5 should be fine.