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burny36

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  1. the seal comes pre greased. its a 1 piece seal on a 2.8l engine. has anyone done it? is there a trick to getting it in without the special tool? i know its different from the 4.0 and the 2.5 because they are made by two different companies.
  2. i have an 86 2.8L Comanche and i am trying to replace the rear main seal. i got the old seal out just fine but i can't get the new one back in. the Haynes manual says that i need a special tool but i can't find anything anywhere about where i can find one. has anyone done this before? any tips on how to get it on?
  3. mine doesn't look like the one that quadratec sells. i just have a ball there are not any threads attached at all. its just a steel ball
  4. does anyone have a picture of there idler ball that the clutch fork is on? I'm unable to figure out what holds my idler ball in. there was some plastic around it that was prettymuch gone but i can't find a replacement. has anyone had this problem?
  5. i can't find a place to get the new ball. i have the ball but there is nothing holding it in it just falls out. would it be smart to jb weld the ball in??
  6. i have an 86 2wd long bed 2.8l manual trans Comanche. my clutch stopped working on me on the way home the other day from work. i was able to start it in first and make it home. i replaced the clutch master and the slave cylinders. bled them like crazy and it was a no go. i could reach the fork with my finger and it moved up and down a great amount so i decided that something was fishy there. i took the transmission out and found there was nothing wrong that i know of. there was a ball the fork road on that was held in by a plastic clip. well that clip broke and the ball fell out. i haven't been able to find a new clip or ball assembly. and I'm wondering is there anything holding the fork in place other then the throw out bearing. I'm just at a loss. does anyone know what i should do and do you have pictures of what its suppose to look like? when the clutch stopped working i got a limp peddle. nothing there just limp
  7. its a standard 5 speed and its a us and i don't know if it is a california or not. I'm in wisconsin so i assume it isnt a california truck What part of WI? i live in fort atkinson not to far from madison
  8. its a standard 5 speed and its a us and i don't know if it is a california or not. I'm in wisconsin so i assume it isnt a california truck
  9. I have a 2wd 86 long bed with a 2.8. I'm trying to track down a vacuum diagram for the engine and I'm having trouble doing so. i was wondering if any of you guys had one out there that you could send me?
  10. what about all of the random vacuum lines and charcoal canisters and stuff? if i cap off the lines will it be better or worse?
  11. I want to get rid of all the emissions on my 2.8 because i don't need to pass emissions and they just annoy me. what can i remove without messing up things? has anyone done this before? does anyone have a vacuum diagram or emissions tubing diagram? will getting rid of them help my mpg? i would just like everything to be a little more simple. thanks all
  12. Thanks for the info that will help a lot! question though. even though i have the 2.8 instead of the 4.0 are the engine grounds the same? or at least in the same area?
  13. I have a 86 Comanche 2wd v6 5 speed that i bought yesterday and as i was driving it last night the left half of the gauge lights went out, the fuel gauge went to empty, the bright lights light came on and the blinker lights turned on and stayed solid. the marker lights outside were not on and they blinked when i turned the signal on. when i turn the brights on the brights turn on and the indicator light goes off. also when i turn the light switch dial all the way to the right the lights turn off and the gas gauge goes back to normal. my question is that is it a ground somewhere, the light switch itself or the blinker switch that is the issue? i haven't looked into anything further with it except brows through the forum. also i was wondering where i could find a wiring diagram for it? thank you Mark
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