Drahcir495

Definitely a hero in my book. :cheers:

Jeff, The house and lawn look great. Moving the date ahead was a brilliant way to get Hoo off the schedule, but not quite enough to get me to drop. Unless the move-in date is July 4th, I will still be coming up :wavey: . I think I am going to leave Friday - just in case I run into any troubles on the road. See you on Saturday - Rich

Great progress and nicely done :cheers:

:thumbsup: :cheers: All I can say is - GREAT JOB!

:agree: :yes:

It's good to have Choices. I am happy for you :thumbsup: .

YOU MEAN WIFES ARE ALLOWED TO COOK TOO!!!!! I need to go have a talk with her! :fs1: Psst - and do the dishes :clapping:

Good call. :thumbsup: Lovely morning ~ I got up early and the wife had a breakfast sandwich and tall glass of OJ ready for me. Now, I could slowly wake myself up reading a few posts on the Comanche Club while woofing down a well balanced breakfast. Nothing says "go get-em tiger" like a good CC post. I spilt the OJ and choked on the sandwich :rotf: . No good deed goes unpunished :clapping: :yes: :rotfl2: . Aaah, indeed a lovely morning. :cheers:

:oops: Thanks Guys!

Welcome to the club! Very cool & creative job you did on the headliner. I can't wait to see what you do next :cheers:

X2! A lot of nice jeeps. Thanks for posting them :thumbsup:

Thanks Hoo. It's like a bad relationship; we all work on these things to where we have ourselves fooled into believing that it is going to work. False hope is then reinforced by appearing to work for days at a time, until you come home early to find her in bed with . . . ~ well that's not it at all. I got so fed up with it that I set it up so there was no second guessing - it had to work.

Pete asked me to post this in the DIY forum. If he thinks it good enough to be here who am I to argue? So here it is ~ I can only comment on what worked on my 1989 Comanche. I am not an encyclopedia of all things Comanche; just all things My Comanche. The windshield wipers on my 1989 Comanche seem to go out every time I use them ~ usually during a massive down pour. When on the rare occasion they do work, it isn’t for long. And I seem to only get one speed out of the motor ~ slow. I decided to order a new wiper motor and see if that would do anything to improve my safety issue. I decided on ordering a new $50 Crown wiper motor from Teamcherokee.com ~ part number 56001402 -> The shiny new motor-> Took the cowl cover off and unhooked the windshield wiper fluid tubes off. Cowl off -> There are 4 T-30 torx bolts that hold the two wiper arm mounts -> There are a total of four 7/16th nuts, two above the map sensor and two others on the fire wall that hold the cowl support brace on -> Inside on the back side of the map sensor is the brace that the two 7/16 nuts support. There is one 10mm bolt that secures the motor bracket in place that needs to be removed. It took a little finagling, but I did get the wiper assembly out -> I removed the old motor off the frame and paid careful attention to the positioning of the arms and motor. Good thing I took pictures before taking the old bushings off, because I forgot about half way in, lol. Quick note about the rotating assembly arms and motor position – the exact position of the motor’s drive shaft and arms do not matter. The motor turns in one direction and 360 degrees. The rotating assembly is set up so the arm start positions and furthest points away are constant. I also decided to replace the 3 linkage bushing cups on the motor arms. I picked up a Dorman HELP! Wiper Linkage Bushings pack at AutoZone ~ part number 49447. It is an assortment pack and included the 3 bushings needed to complete the project. The old ball and bushing socket -> The new bushings look like this -> One bushing in place, two more to go -> Ready to go back in -> I got everything back in place and even reinstalled the rubber motor boot. I was sure to add RTV to the front and back of the bolts and nuts that went through the fire wall – don’t want any rust or unnecessary water in the cowl/ wiper assembly area if possible. I also used some Lock-tite on the screws that hold the motor on to the frame. Everything thing seems to be working great, but I have not had it out for real world testing. For now, it seems to have all the features you would expect, slow to faster intermediate mode, slow, and fast wipes. I will have to play with the exact position of the arms to get the most of the full cycle of movement. Looks real promising at this point. Final picture with wiper blades and arms installed -> I have documented this and many other upgrade to my Comanche in my build thread here -> viewtopic.php?f=7&t=8051. Thanks for looking, Drahcir

Fixing the Harmonic Balancer caused my interior lights, electric fan, and radio not to work :fs1: . I don’t know how they could possibly be connected, but some how they seem to be. Check and rechecked all fuses and they were all good. Crap! Just days before the VA meet and greet. No way can I go on that trek without tunes. It is time for me to get serious about this frickeen power problem. Started with the radio; no power to the pink wire. Decided to get a new fuse block and try and back feed the power to the pink – * took out the fuse from the factory box and left it out. Went to a marine supply place and picked up these-> It is a remote Fuse Panel: part# 15600-06-20 & a Power Post for the dedicated ground: part # 2011. Found a sweet location for the ground post under the dash and ran a 1410AWG wire directly to the negative battery post – I am not playing around any more. Power post would cover this Hole for ground-> I would have to drill out two holes on either side of the opening. ~ Before -> After drilling out the holes and installing the post-> Front side ~ installed -> Drilled a few holes for the screws and mounted the fuse block here-> Used the left over 10AWG Red wire from my headlight upgrade and ran it from the new fuse block directly to the battery. I attached all of the grounds to the post and locked it down. Used the new fuse block for the radio, the eclectic fan, and to back feed all of the interior accessories. I was sure to use all the recommended size fuses and everything is working like it should now.

Love the new rims. Looks like a nice truck. Did the Quad come with it :brows:

Great job getting the truck back into shape :banana: :thumbsup: ! Welcome to the club :cheers:

I found mjeff87’s thread on placing a HO valve cover on a Renix 4.0 viewtopic.php?f=2&t=12871. What a great idea! I decided to give it a try. The reported benefits are reduction/elimination of any blow-by problems. In theory, the bigger CCV lines help combat the blow-by problem by pulling oil away from the air box. May reduce leaks - In my case the old cover was leaking oil from around the disintegrating grommets, so eliminating that would be a plus. Girls will want to date you when they hear about the increased size of your CCV plumbing. Baffle vs. Towers ~ enough said. I got up early one weekend to see what was available at the junk yard. After taking a few steel ones off only to find that they also had towers, I ended up finding one from a newer Cherokee. For about $11, I got this nice late model XJ HO steel valve cover-> This newer VC was pretty clean to begin with, and it is in much better condition than the old one. Even the oil cap was near perfect and had a more modern look. I was careful to grab all the hardware – bolts and metal inserts etc., associated hoses and fittings, and as much else I thought I may need. You can see how this one has a baffle that runs across the top. The differences will be more apparent when I get the old valve cover out and next to it -> The nasty old VC in the jeep before the swap out-> I used the Fel-Pro VS 50458 R gasket with the replacement grommets ~ around $32 -> And a full shot of the Fel-Pro VS 50458 R gasket-> The grommets and steel spacer inserts -> Managed to get the old valve cover off -> In this shot of the bottom side of both Valve Covers, you can see the differences between the two. Notice the towers on the old cover, vs. the full baffle on the new VC. It looks like the crappy original VC gasket was doing its job, but it looks like it was fairly flattened out -> Big difference in the rear tube sizes -> Full top shot old & new-> New VC in, still need to work on vacuum lines -> My intake manifold used a smaller fitting -> I decided to keep the fitting in the original location and just run a hose from the rear to the front. I know mjeff87 moved his to the rear like the newer HO models have. In order to keep the original location I will need to upgrade the original nipple to the larger sized fitting. Luckily I had in my parts bin -> New larger 3/8 NPT to 3/8" tubing adapter in place on the intake manifold -> For lack of the actually name – the Vacuum junction box -> After removing the “Vacuum Junction Box,” I just had to reattach the nut-> Turned this vacuum tower fitting 180 degrees out-> The final product -> All the vacuum line were cut and re-routed to their original locations using the original lines, or with extra pieces I had been gathering in order to repair dry rotting pieces. You can get an idea of the routing of the new tubes in this shot-> Left over parts -> I have to check the air cleaner in a few days to check on the blow-by, but everything seems to be as advertised. It does look nice in there, especially with that dirty junction connector gone. I am happy with it and would do it again. It was a pretty easy swap. Honestly the hardest part of this upgrade was removing that stupid white label off the front of the cover.

Great job on the paint :thumbsup: . Very nice :cheers:

Drahcir come lately - but GOOD LUCK Brent! We are pulling for you :beerhead: - Rich

The back and forth is killing me :ack: . I am still in :cheers:

I'm in for one ;)

:yes: Exo-cage!

Great, never thought about the wife hitting the remote, or the mother-in-law hitting the wall mounted button :hmm: . I know that there is not enough room in the garage, so I won't be able to work on it without the jeep partially hanging out of the garage. I will just have to disconnect the door with that safety release lever. That way nobody can lower the door - problem solved if I can stick to it :dunno:

It was a very hot today and I had been working on the MJ all morning. I decided to move it half way into the garage to take advantage of the shade while having some of the sun light coming in through the rear window. About an hour ago I finished up my last splice and put the lower dash valance back on. Last thing to go on was the ash tray. The stuff I had in the ash tray got shuffled around and pinned my garage door opener in a corner. Can you see where this is headed? I went to un-jam it and you guessed it; I hit the button :grrrr: . I can't tell you exactly what happened next. I think I hit the button again but I am not sure. I found myself ready to sacrifice my body to save the MJ. Long story short - it hit the roof of the cab and kept going. I was quickly underneath it pushing it back up. Boy was I afraid to look. Ended up with only minor scrapes and no dents :( . Just thought I would share my :dunce: .

:eek: Good save. Nice of that guy to tell you that your brake lights were out. Everything works after you replaced the fuses?