Drahcir495

I saw this plate and could not believe that the DMV let it slide :hmm:

Wow - that is going to look great :bowdown:

Devin, You are definitely in the right place :thumbsup:. Welcome to the club :cheers: . Be sure to post up plenty of picture of your progress ~ we eat it up here. - Rich

Thank you - it was a bear. Good idea on loosening the caps, but I am certain mine was not going to drop out. That M715 is in awesome condition. Very cool truck. :cheers:

I knew after a guy on the interstate pulled up along side of me honking his horn, with a hand written note saying “Water vapor or Smoke,” that I had to address my 1.5 quart a week habit. I headed down to the shop early Saturday morning to finally (hopefully) cure my massive oil leak. Any time I would stop, you could watch the oil pour out between the engine and bell housing. I read some where that the O-ring in the oil filter mount could go bad causing leaks -> http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Eng ... -Rings.htm, so I took mine apart to give it a try. I disassembled the oil filter mount -> ~ you can see that the original O-rings are flat and petrified. I headed down to Napa and picked up the larger oil adapter O-ring; Felpro Part # 70301 -> . Napa did not have the other O-ring in the system, but they had a box full of them and we found the right size. I forgot about the middle O-ring but mine look fine so I re-used it. Well got it back together and it still leaked like a sieve. I figured it could be that I did not put the valve cover gasket on correctly when I up graded to the newer style with the full baffles verses the tower on the original cover. Re did the valve cover and gasket and still had the same embarrassing amount of leakage. I have been gathering the parts from Napa until I was ready to tackle the project. I picked up RMS Felpro part#40612 -> , and a new one piece oil pan gasket Felpro part#34308R -> . I did a search on Google to look up what was involve in replacing the seal and found this http://www.jeepin.com/features/rearmain/ to help get an idea of what to expect and headed over to the shop to move some of the vehicles to get my truck in and to start the straight forward sounding job I was nothing like I expected. The whole undercarriage was covered in the leaking dirty oil. I bent the oil pan in a few places trying to get it off – it had never been removed. Had to take my RE control arm drop bracket support off to remove the pan. The rear main bearing came off easy enough -> . The lower seal was as hard as granite which I imagine is not good for keeping oil in. Here is what the new lower RMS looked like -> . The lower seal took a little bit of effort but it popped out, but not with out leaving a bit of it left in the channel. I spent 10 minutes cleaning that up. Took a break and flew one of the micro-chopper we had at the shop -> ~ hovering in this picture. Spent a few moments looking ate the new parts we got in for the 1967 Kaiser Jeep M715 -> Fun time was over and it was time to get started on the upper rear main seal. It was stupid hard to get out. I swore it was never coming out. I spent a cursed filled hour trying to tap it out with a small hammer and punch. It was 3:30pm now and I figured I hade destroyed the channel and had nothing to loose, so I broke out a real Estwing 16 once claw hammer and let it have it. After 3 or 4 hits to my surprise it budged. Got it around as far as I could safely go with out scoring the crank and then used some needle nose vice grips and a closed end wrench for leverage to pull it completely out. It was a nightmare, but it was out -> The whole piece honestly feels like steel - not just the core. And a top view of the same seal showing the Unobtainium it is made out of -> . The new upper portion -> The upper seal went in fairly easy and I was happy. I spent at least an hour cleaning the old oil pan gasket off both surfaces. The new one piece gasket is nice -> I got it all back together except for the support bar ~ just incase I have to take it apart again. I have no leaks as of yet. The true test will be after I drive to work tomorrow. I have to give anyone who has replaced the rear main seals a lot of credit. It is not fun. 1/18 - Drove around Sunaday and the 33 miles to work today with out a drop of new oil :banana: . Looks like it has worked :popcorn: .

Money sent :thumbsup:

I am in for a set. Pm to follow . . . Thanks, Rich

I would like to see how they turn out. Keep me updated - Rich

Exactly - they do not! So where in the last seven pages did you say I want two sets IF they don't use 3" tail lights or any other deal breakers?

From this: To this: :huh???:

Do you still need one? I PM'd You - Rich

That was just cool :cheers:

Sorry to hear about the accident. You are now the third person I know that has had horrible injuries from a golf cart . . . make that four. Get well soon :cheers:

:agree: Stupid Sticky tires

No, I am going to leave it to a professional :cheers:

:D Thanks for asking MG13. I am getting close to getting the truck painted. I will be posting something soon on my bad oil leak - if it turns out not to be the rear main seal. Oh yeah, yesterday I spun my distributor almost a full turn :eek: . The jeep sounded like it popped out of gear, but it had not. Pulled over and found that a few of the wires pulled off the spark plugs. And the coil wire was off. I managed to get it together and make it home. I added one new wire and tuned it by ear. It runs just a good as it did yesterday - 70 mph back and forth to work today; still @ 13mpg. My distributer retaining bolt will need to be checked every week now until I figure out what is happening

Hoping for you to get home in time for Christmas. Get well soon :cheers:

You can't go wrong with the Garrett Ace 250 - easy to use, light, and has a good rep. We have a expensive waterproof Fisher model that I haven't used since picking up the ACE. I got it here -> http://www.kellycodetectors.com/garrett/garrett.htm

OOH - that is good to know. I just wanted to get behind the gasket to fix some of the leaks. I never intended on taking out the window. Thank you for the Heads up :thumbsup: - Rich

Thank you for the great write-up 64 Cheyenne! I have a leak somewhere in my back slider?? I should be able to fix it now that I know the window gasket pops out like that. Very cool - Rich

Your eyes deceive you. It is commonly assumed that Eagle's sense of humor was surgically removed by his second wife. The truth is, that's a scurrilous lie. I was born during WW2 and there was a severe shortage of senses of humor at Bryan Army Air Station. I wasn't issued one at birth, and my parents moved me off post before supplies became available. Now that's funny. :clapping: Sorry - Off Topic ~ Please tell me you are watching the History Channel's WWII in HD.

I replaced everything. Thermostat, water pump, temp sending unit, aluminum coolant bottle, clutch fan, & Radiator. At a stop light at idle the temperature will climb until I put my aux fan on a dash switch. I kick it on when needed - no problems. I would fix the aux fan first. If you still have a problem, get a new radiator and burp the system correctly. I think mine would have been fine with just the new rad & fan fix - HTH Rich

Sorry to hear that. I hope all turns out well. - Rich

:agree: and actually mine came from the junkyard with that exact thing in it. so imo it was all junkyard, thats exactly how mine looked when i snagged it. :agree: they do this down here in Florida. The last D60 we pulled had the hole and rubber grommit :rant:

An Olympic edition - sweet. I can't wait to see the pictures of your progress. Welcome to the club :cheers: