Drahcir495

How lucky you are! My father-in-law loves wrenching too, i.e. - tossing them into my peaceful relationship ~ at every possible moment. I love how he visits and ask about the jeep pretending to be interested– “that looks like a new bumper you got there Son. That really looks expensive.” Next line out of his pie hole, “baby, is that garbage disposal still broken?” It is also an all you can drink and eat buffet up to the moment he walks out the door; then takes a little extra for the road. “What was the name of that guy you used to date Pumpkin? . . . yeah Steve. Boy, I heard he did well in the Wells Fargo/Wachovia merger. Dracula, I heard you nearly loss an eye on call at the toll booth Tuesday. I guess they may have to consider offering hazard pay, hehe.” And who drinks a man’s last beer?! Yep, you got it good Hoo.

The windshield wipers on my Comanche seem to go out every time I use them ~ usually during a massive down pour. When on the rare occasion they do work, it isn’t for long. And I seem to only get one speed out of the motor ~ slow. I decided to order a new wiper motor and see if that would do anything to improve my safety issue. I decided on ordering a new $50 Crown wiper motor from Teamcherokee.com ~ part number 56001402 -> The shiny new motor-> Took the cowl cover off and unhooked the windshield wiper fluid tubes off. Cowl off -> There are 4 T-30 torx bolts that hold the two wiper arm mounts -> There are a total of four 7/16th nuts, two above the map sensor and two others on the fire wall that hold the cowl support brace on -> Inside on the back side of the map sensor is the brace that the two 7/16 nuts support. There is one 10mm bolt that secures the motor bracket in place that needs to be removed. It took a little finagling, but I did get the wiper assembly out -> I removed the old motor off the frame and paid careful attention to the positioning of the arms and motor. Good thing I took pictures before taking the old bushings off, because I forgot about half way in, lol. Quick note about the rotating assembly arms and motor position – the exact position of the motor’s drive shaft and arms do not matter. The motor turns in one direction and 360 degrees. The rotating assembly is set up so the arm start positions and furthest points away are constant. I also decided to replace the 3 linkage bushing cups on the wiper motor arms. I picked up a Dorman HELP! Wiper Linkage Bushings pack at AutoZone ~ part number 49447. It is an assortment pack and included the 3 bushings needed to complete the project. The old ball and bushing socket -> The new bushings look like this -> One bushing in place, two more to go -> Ready to go back in -> I got everything back in place and even reinstalled the rubber motor boot. I was sure to add RTV to the front and back of the bolts and nuts that went through the fire wall – don’t want any rust or unnecessary water in the cowl/ wiper assembly area if possible. I also used some Lock-tite on the screws that hold the motor on to the frame. Everything thing seems to be working great, but I have not had it out for real world testing. For now, it seems to have all the features you would expect, slow to faster intermediate mode, slow, and fast wipes. I will have to play with the exact position of the arms to get the most of the full cycle of movement. Looks real promising at this point.

Sweet, thanks guys :wavey:

I am still working on getting the Comanche ready for the road trip. I was looking the engine over when I noticed something not quite right with the harmonic balancer. It appeared to have some plastic coming out of it. On closer inspection I see this :eek: ~ looking up from the bottom -> I decided to post a question about how bad it could be in the tech section (viewtopic.php?f=2&t=11865&start=60. Everyone one suggested that it be replaced. I headed out to the parts store and picked up a new Pioneer Harmonic Balancer; part number DA-242 {made in Australia} -> I had to use the gear puller on old harmonic balancer, but it did not have enough room to pull it completely off. I ended up having to tap a little with a hammer on each side ~ turn and repeat. This was PITA, but it did finally come off. The harmonic balancer was much worse than I had thought. You can see how bad the old balancer was – it could not sit level -> Front side of old harmonic balancer - you can see how the plastic ring is moving out -> On the backside comparison you can see where on one side, where the harmonic balancer was seriously out of balance, was brushing up against the timing cover -> Side comparison of two-> And a front side comparison -> Getting it back in was going to be a little tricky. The stock bolt is not long enough to reach the hole with the harmonic balancer this far out. I ended up finding a longer bolt had lying around and using it to get the new harmonic balancer started -> Got it all together and working. Now I have another issue to deal with – the horrible squealing sound. Could it be my belt? I will find out next weekend - Rich

Are you kidding me ~ :dunce: . I will be out there tomorrow trying it out. Thanks for the tip :cheers: .

:bowdown: I love it!

I found this connector underneath the windshield washer fluid bottle. Anyone know what it’s supposed to go to? -> Thanks - Rich

Thank's everyone :thumbsup: . I am going to replace it now. What a thread Chico ~ wished I had seen it before now :cheers: To answer my own question :doh: pretty bad! -> old & new ->

Working under the jeep today and I noticed what looks like a plastic ring coming out of my harmonic balancer :eek: ! See-> Looking down from the top -> What do you think went wrong? Is this something of major concern? I plan on replacing it no matter what. It was just a surprise to see that.

I am preparing the MJ for the First Annual South East Meet and Greet in June viewtopic.php?f=21&t=16668. Today I started to change out all the fluids, starting with the transmission and transfer case, before I move on to the engine and axles. I also decided to try and swap out the factory 29 tooth to the 39 tooth gear that BLHTAZ hooked me up with . I first drained the transfer case -> I have been putting this off because I was afraid that the length of the new gear shaft would not match the old shaft. I did not want to use a heat gun to swap the new gear onto the old shaft to make it work. To my relief and surprise the gear shafts were exactly the same length! -> All I needed to do was to insert the new shaft/39 tooth gear in place -> Installed it with the correct tooth range nick (32-45) in front of the lower fork arm -> Then I filled the NP231 with a little over 1 Quart of ATF. This was the drain plug on my Peugeot BA10/5-> The same tool was needed for the fill plug -> I did not have the correct tool to remove the plugs, so I improvised. I made the tool by modifying a cheap hex wrench. I used a 3/8 Hex Wrench I had lying around and ground down two apposing sides to remove drain plug -> As you can see; it fits -> The old oil was a little dirty-> The Peugeot used almost 3 Quarts of 80W-90 gear oil, but I could have been closer to 2 ½ looking at the mess I made trying to get it into the fill hole. I also installed a new O2 sensor; Bosch 12009-> Nice -> Used a 7/8 wrench -> ~ Had no problems getting it off. Old and new -> This weekend I am attempting to replace the valve cover with a late model steel one. I am hoping this will stop the leaking & blow by problems. TBC

Got your back on this one :thumbsup: .

Its mid May man, time to take down the stocking & lights :yes: . Nice place you got there. Nothing like I had when I was single .

I feel silly about how excited I am over this ~ and I hate moves :yes: . I have been ready for this all year :D . I just need the final date to turn in to the "powers that be." I can bring moving dollies if needed. - Rich

Right on, I'll start a never-ending thread of questions. :eek: Welcome to the club! Nice looking MJ :thumbsup: . Post away with the questions! That is what the ComancheClub and the Tech section is here for :cheers:

:agree: saweeet!

I don't know? What are the dates and the location (Daytona I would guess). :cheers: Edit: BLHTAZ posted the info here viewtopic.php?f=21&t=16608

State bird down here :agree:

Rich Young 89 LWB Pioneer Tarpon Springs, Florida.

Thank you sir :cheers: . You can also buy a new headliner from a guy on ebay if interested.

That place is amazing :eek:. I would love to take a day off and walk through it. I envy your adventure :cheers:. Thanks for sharing :thumbsup:

Well it looks comfy & it will get you back into shape! You can always have it chrome plated in the future, so all is not lost ;) . :bowdown: I remember those! Nice Hawk, nice.

I hope you can knock that down. We are all pulling for you! Now, I can't believe I am the first to point this out - The Bike is Chrome :rotfl2:

:cheers: :cheers: Can't wait to see the pictures!

Your brick eats gas at 70? Somehow I doubt there's a gear ratio out there that would change that fact. :D Haha, good point. All I know is I can watch the needle on the gas gauge drop at that speed. Sir Sam - I don't want either of those transmissions. I am working on adding another overdrive gear to my BA-10 using a custom gear, bailing wire and JB Weld. An Over-overdrive combined with the BA-10 superior strength - priceless . I hope to have my BA-10/6 up and running for the VA meet and greet at Jeff's. I will of course post up pictures - of the final product, as to not give away any trade secrets - in my build-up thread when I am done.

:hmm: , I resemble that remark :oops: . She will be better off without him!