Alexia

Looks fine to me, but best to open it up to inspect the gear faces.

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I put a rule in to limit the height to 120 pixels.

We can limit the size of the images placed in signatures, but any signatures that were created before the conversion to IP.Board were grandfathered into place. They would have to be updated by a moderator.

Why remove the front axle? Put jack stands under the frame behind the lower control arm brackets, remove tires, put the lug nuts back on over the rotors, and let the axle droop down to rest of the rotors. That will give 5+ inches of extra room. If the steering linkage gets in the way some from too much suspension drop then jack the axle up slightly.

I did use the factory shims and it looks like I am very close to where I need to be. The LCA bolt is moved forward 0.5" with the drop brackets which is nearly perfect for taking up the difference in lift height. As for the braces, I am not worrying about them. The MJ already has much more bracing than a XJ with the stock LCA pocket. I had to put in an extra bolt to get the tabs to stay still instead of wobbling. Make sure to slide the metal bracket all the way to the end of the line. I did this by twisting a screwdriver between it to loosen the metal, slide it, and then clamped it again in a vice. The hard portion of the line I routed between the bleed nipple and upper caliper bolt.

The only aftermarket head is an aluminum head from Hesco which is a ridiculous $2,000. All other heads will be rebuilt OEM heads. Odessa/Clearwater does good work and is inexpensive. http://myworld.ebay.com/odessa*cylinderhead If you want a performance head then Cleggs has one rebuilt for that purpose. http://www.cleggengine.com/jeep-4-0l-stage-3-ported-head-w-oversized-valves.html

If you have a steering wheel puller that is short enough you may not have to remove the grill and radiator, but it makes it much easier to do this job. Otherwise it is removing the harmonic balancer and the cover to get to the chain. The belt, water pump pulley, fan, and fan pulley will definitely need to be removed. Depending on what alternator setup is there the alternator support bracket that will come off with the cover.

Hardware reasons for shutting down are a faulty power supply or the thermal protection of the CPU triggering.

Centering the axle left to right is easy. Just measure from a common center point on the wheels to a common point on the frame. Then get it the same from side to side. If the track bar is not lining up then turn the wheels with all the weight on them. It will move enough to line it up. Track bar alignment is not super critical for tire wear concerns. Being 0.25" off will not hurt it.

It takes less than thirty seconds to break into a Cherokee and drive away with it. Screwdriver, hammer into ignition, slam downwards to break open the ignition switch, and then turn the switch manually.

The front drive shaft is way too short. As well, a SYE and double cardan shaft on a Comanche at 5.5" of lift is generally not necessary.

Definitely do not take my advice about routing it behind the power steering pump bracket. Glad this made me go out there to take a picture or otherwise I would not have noticed this before it got worse. What Geonovast shows is correct for routing.

This is all from memory, so no guarantee on accuracy. On federal emissions models the front O2 sensor runs down in front of the intake manifold behind the power steering bracket. Then it is held in place with a small sheet metal bracket that bolts to the oil pan bolts. From there it plugs into the sensor. On California emissions models the front upstream sensor runs between the 4 and 5 intake manifold runner. The connector for that sensor should be above the manifolds and the wires should have the heat shielding. If they do not have then pick some up at the an automotive store. The rear upstream sensor's connector clips to the same bracket that the CPS connector does and loops behind the intake manifold. While it should not need heat shielding putting some can fix that issue.

Nope! I just received the rear axle back from the offroad shop one week after they said it would be ready. They only started working on it TODAY which means I have not been able to work on anything in the rear FOR A WEEK! The deadline is Sunday. The perches are 42" perfect and 5.25" from the flanges. They were welded ten degrees instead of eight degrees like I told them. Which means it is two degrees extra upwards. This would be fine if this was downwards due to spring wrap, but this may end up causing vibrations.

Almost feel like this is directed at me! :P I guess I never remembered to fill it in.

I replaced the radiator, hoses, and did a coolant flush in two hours. Swapping the water pump and thermostat would add roughly thirty minutes.(Stupid messy old gaskets takes a bit.) There is a ton of room to work in there and the the front grill does not need come off with a Wrangler to replace the radiator. Also, the water pump can be changed WITHOUT pulling the radiator.

I had to leave my Wrangler doors off and inside the house under a heat lamp to dry all the water bubbles for a week. It looks great now.

If it is the wire on the front of the case it is for the 4WD sensor light. The one on the rear at the tail shaft is the speed sensor.

The entire cooling system will need to be flushed and the thermostat replaced. I dealt with the same issue. The thermostat appeared to be fine, but was operating incorrectly. It was only after replacing the radiator and fan clutch that I finally replaced the thermostat.

They are way too long. They would be considered a medium length arm in comparison to stock short arms and long arm kits.

4.88 minimum for 37" tires. I would recommend 5.13, but the D30 will not support it.

Looks like that is when it was bought according to the seller. My French language skills are not great.

They have a good enough reputation. The thing about gears is that, according to research down by the owner of Northridge4x4, there are only about three foundries that make the gear seats. Then a bunch of companies that resell them. Any with cosmetic flaws get sold as the cheap brands and the perfect sets get sold as the expensive brands. With that said, I am installing two sets right now.

I went to Lowes with a list of all the stock bolt specifications and put together a complete set for about $40. All of them are class 10.9. Going longer than the listed size is fine and is some cases for me I need an extra 5mm to 10mm of extra length to get proper thread engagement. If you can not find class 10.9 metric bolts then they are substitutes. A grade 8 9/16" bolt is 0.011" larger than 14mm and likely the holes are worn enough they will slide right into place. A 10mm replacement is a little harder since the same or larger size at 7/16" is 0.043" larger. Those would require enlarging the holes. UCA at frame: M10x1.50x85 UCA at axle: M10x1.50x?? - Length is not listed on my sheet, but it should be the same as at the frame. LCA at frame: M14x2.00x110 LCA at axle: M14x2.00x110