Alexia

I make efficient use of the space I have.

Aircraft paint stripper will remove ALL the paint down to the metal.

Enamel paints react badly to other types of paint especially clear coat. That cracked tacky finish means it will never dry and will have to be chemically removed.

Isn't that @#$%ing annoying? Here is this cool thing I did, here's a single $#!&ty pic and I'll never come back to the internet. Right now I'm working on an SVX engine conversion into a VW van. This is a swap that has been done hundred of times before, but I'm having trouble finding a good single documented swap on it.......grrrr That is why I take pictures of everything I am doing on the 1997+ swap. It is fairly well documented, but more documentation is always better!

Bored 63mm throttle body, powder coated red and black.

You love those KJs! Someone else that has done the swap.

The local LKQ here drills a tiny hole then plugs it. I am going to replug it a bit more professionally.

1997 to 2004 for the fuel pump assembly. Preferably then dropped into a ODBI style gas tank, 1991 to 1996. ODBII tanks will work with modification to the fill and vent locations.

It will eventually start chipping around the edges of the doors and potentially flaking off in those areas.

1987 too. I thought to drill the holes for the right side prop when the fender was off so now I am stuck using the old one. It just looks like it is for hose clearance.

Focus on fixing all the rust first then make the decision about doing a swap.

LEFT SIDE Front Retainer: http://www.quadratec.com/products/52449_0174.htm - MOPAR 55003233 Center/Top Retainer: http://www.quadratec.com/products/52449_0175.htm - MOPAR 55003234 Rear Retainer: http://www.quadratec.com/products/52449_0177.htm - MOPAR 55003237 RIGHT SIDE Front Retainer: http://www.quadratec.com/products/52449_0173.htm - MOPAR 55003232 Center/Top Retainer: http://www.quadratec.com/products/52449_0175.htm - MOPAR 55003234 Rear Retainer: http://www.quadratec.com/products/52449_0176.htm - MOPAR 55003236 $51.94 for a complete set or just buy the pieces you need. Just be glad you broke the retainers on a 1984-1996 XJ/MJ. 1997-2001 retainers are dealership only and cost $300 for a set.

I would not worry about dropping the suspension any more unless you are purposely going for a flush look. Stadium trucks still needed enough suspension travel to absorb rough bumps! Are you going to get that drive shaft rebalanced now that you shortened it?

The only way to relieve the pain is to buy another Comanche.

That is what I mean, going do try that now. A 1997 Dakota just came to the local junk yard on Wednesday and looks to be complete. That should cover me for tank, pump, and sender all at once.

Welcome to the site! I cleaned up your duplicate topics. The server gets a bit bogged down during prime time, so if your post takes some time to go through, just give it the time. It will sit there and spin, but it should go through eventually.

Uh... So I heard the Dakota tank option is really nice. Yeah, I completely forgot about how to fill the tank.

From here: http://comancheclub.com/topic/11623-the-worlds-fastest-comanche/page-8

The linkage arm of the rear most throttle body is ditched. A longer rod goes completely through both controlling each throttle body from one linkage arm. So the throttle position sensor will be fine. Idle air controller, well, I guess start with one hooked up, then try both.

Yep, with carburetors and throttle body injection, wet instead of dry manifolds, having multiple throttle bodies helped since the wet air fuel mixture would distribute more evenly. Also, Austin Healey 3000! :drool:

It has definitely been done before. http://naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1070907&page=6#79 Lets say an engine needs an 80mm wide throttle body to get the amount of air flow it requires. It could be shoved all into one throttle body or distributed evenly across multiple throttle bodies. Multiple throttle bodies are usually preferred since it helps to even out the distance the air has to flow to each cylinder. Thus preventing one cylinder operating more efficiently than the rest.

You can put the pictures all together in one post at the same time. Also, my drifting coworker kept trying to get me to do this to my Comanche. We discussed lots of the things that would need to be done!

The Rustoleum on my front axle did not survive me sneezing on it in a temperature controlled dry garage. Better than Krylon, but still has issues with chemicals. I am giving VHT a chance on the rear. So far it does not immediately scratch off when using a jack. Neohic, it will take maybe thirty minutes to spray the axle with wax and grease remover, sand with a red scotch pad, and clean again with the wax and grease remover. Then spray it down with about three coats of paint.

This was due to a failed Anti-Spam installation. :(