Alexia

I am thinking about grabbing the white one. Maybe. Hey, if you get the busted blue one and do not need the engine and I get the blown engine white one, I know of a future deal between us!

Besides the drive train, I stripped an entire Cherokee in a day. As long as you have the space for the parts you could strip it in a weekend and be tossing the carcass by Monday.

North Alabama/Huntsville area

I am supposed to offer up the axle to the rear tonight so I can take measurements!

It depends what brand of shock you buy. Bilstein shocks come with very beefy bar pins that have solid holes instead of slots. My old Old Man Emu shocks came with crappy bar pins.

If you use a small one pound extinguisher it should be fine. The depth from the back wall to the open position of the lid is about the depth of the seat backs. It is still probably going to bump it at least.

Some highlights from the instructions. "...so ignore the fact that the flares in these pictures are black." "Hold the M-Max Fender Flare in place on the body—a buddy can usually be coaxed to help by offering pizza. If not, a few strips of masking tape should do the trick. ...on the Jeep, not the buddy."

$1,000 - Needs engine http://chattanooga.craigslist.org/pts/3550737466.html $500 - Front fenders and grill are useless, but the rest of the thing is perfect for swapping. http://nashville.craigslist.org/pts/3617456779.html

http://chattanooga.craigslist.org/ptd/3583866230.html

I ordered Bilstein 5100 #24-185943 shocks for the front. For the rear I am unsure since I still need to decide if I want to do spring pad mounted shocks or weld tabs on to the axle.

Are you using the typical plastic wall mount for it?

I am planning to mount one between the seats above the center console screwed right into the back panel.

Elimination! I prefer heat shrink splices for all my connections. I left the red wire open since it is for trailer tow power or whatever I decide to use it for in the future. Factory splicing compared to mine. The courtesy lamps are from a 1996 XJ. This 1997 XJ harness did not even have the connectors for them so I took the extras I had laying around to add this feature. All bundled up ready to install. Bilstein 5100 front shocks. 6" of up travel. 8.5" until it hits the bump stops. I need about 3.5" of bump stop extension to properly space it. 4.56 gearing!

That is normal as the front axle is vacuum disconnect at the passenger side. This allows the drive shaft to freely rotate while not engaged in four wheel drive.

Build a bar that will run between the B pillars. The appropriate size holes will need to be drilled with a hole saw through the B pillar plastic. Weld the bar to a base plate on each side that bolts through the inner B pillar metal with four bolts. On the inside of the B use another plate to effectively sandwich the material and strengthen the support. For further support build K bars from the middle of that bar to the bottom at the B pillars at the floor. With that setup there will be no internal to external corrosion possibilities introduced by bolting through the back of the cab. I doubt it would be race legal, but it will hold just as well as the stock seat belts.

Right above you, Rob. :P

I put in a $50 in the last couple minutes and had found it just a bit earlier. I was about to bump to $100 and as I was typing it jumped up to $250. Yeah, nope! $50 would have been fine. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=111009963812

http://comancheclub.com/topic/36072-dumb-and-dumber-mj/page__hl__dumb+and+dumber

Using the MJ bucket brackets I might sit about one inch higher. However, the foam in those seats are worn down to the frame so it may be the same as originally stock.

http://imcdb.org/vehicle_563014-Jeep-Comanche-MJ-1986.html http://comancheclub.com/topic/24030-comanche-spotted-on-tv/ As for Dumb and Dumber, I might have to go pull some frames.

If you were close you would be welcome to my 3.55 ratio D35 as a school donation. Too bad that is a bit far away. :(

My heater in the LJ puts out hot temperatures at 150F.

How about when I get this Jeep driving we meet up for hamburgers. :P

Working on the interior body harness. Most of the wires will be eliminated. Seats I picked out for $100 from a 2004 Jeep Wrangler. The bottom of the seats are nearly covered in metal braces that makes it easy to drill holes for mounting the MJ bucket brackets.

Usually that indicates the thermostat has failed and stuck open. The Stant Superstat is designed to do that.