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Everything posted by Alexia

  1. This arrived just in time. My LJ rolled over 200,000 miles recently and the replacement Chrysler 42RLE has started to slip out of gear. This is a GM L99 6.2L V8 and 6L80 six speed automatic out of a 2011 Chevrolet Camaro SS. The stock 190 horsepower has never been enough so 400+ horsepower should do the job.
  2. If it fits, it shifts. I got the Savvy transfer case shifter to replace the Advance Adapters shifter I have that really only works with the stock drive train. If the ears on the transfer case bracket were about 95º instead of 90º it would fit easily right out of the box behind a 6L80E. A small sledgehammer fixed that. I used every last thread adjusting the cable towards the front to line up both ends.
  3. Which could be acrylic paint considering how old the vehicle is unless it was painted more recently.
  4. Before going to sanding find out if they are painted with acrylic paint. Let some isopropyl alcohol(rubbing alcohol) sit on the paint. If it starts to look visually cracked or get tacky then it is acrylic paint. Otherwise it is another paint base that will be a bit more difficult to remove with chemicals that won't affect the plastic.
  5. Alexia

    All Breeds Jeep Show in York 2019

    Checked = wired up. Green = Checked with multimeter. My MJ is one of those projects were you try to do your best and go all in with all the extra effort. Then end up making a bunch of mistakes and learn from it. Consequently it is not very reliable to drive up to PA.
  6. Alexia

    All Breeds Jeep Show in York 2019

    This checklist? https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1WeNrxo_olLp98F6OxWAWf11TVL2zZoyMebU51qa1nOs/edit?usp=sharing I am close.
  7. I have spent so much time on this and keep making dumb mistakes like crimping the wrong gendered terminal on a wire. My brain is mush. Most of the time was trying to figure out where to repurpose fuses and add fuses with the empty slots. The Chevrolet Camaro wiring diagrams dictated that I needed about four additional fuses added. It also had a bunch of dumb stuff like a twenty foot wire run from the trunk to the ECM under the hood with 18AWG from a 20A fuse. I added a bunch of wires and repurposed some. I am really trying to keep this wiring looking stock as much as possible. So I ripped apart the dash body harness to change up wires. Here I added: 2x 20A power leads for the ignition coil/injector banks. 2x Relay controls for the fans. Eventually I remembered that I owned two folding tables that I could use for holding things. Despite being super careful the tabs in the PDC that hold the terminals in place are just too brittle. My LJ's PDC is in great condition compared to the brittle WJ PDC I tore apart, but I still broke a bunch of tabs. High temperature high adhesion hot glue to the rescue. A bit of improvising with spare terminals with crimped leads. I need a 7.5A mini fuse and some various J-Case fuses in sizes I do not have, but otherwise this is the populated PDC. The top empty half ISO relay slot you can see through the holes to inside. However, I did populate the positive side of the trigger with an ignition power source so it is ready to be used for something if I ever need it. The "O2 Rear Heater Relay" in the slot below is removed since it will no longer be powering anything.
  8. Alexia

    All Breeds Jeep Show in York 2019

    I will be there, but with my LJ.
  9. GM has a social media email that can be used to request build sheets. I got one back for the Camaro this drive train came from. What I needed to know was if it had the "BTV" option which means remote engine start. It does and all I need to make it work is the remote keyless entry receiver I previously purchased and the correct remotes. The OEM like remotes from China are only $10 each and do not have any pesky dirty GM logos on them. Thanks! I am guessing I am about 90% on the engine wiring now. I started on the BCM wiring diagram today too.
  10. Today started off by harvesting PDC terminals from a very durable and very fancy shipping box the eBay seller used to send me them. I did use the extra four slot relay holder that came with the WJ PDC to add into my LJ's PDC. The first three I have populated with a common positive relay trigger off the ASD output that feeds the stock injector fuse. Which will no longer supply the injectors or ignition coils. The injectors/ignition coils even, injectors/ignition coils odd, and something else relays will be triggered by the ASD this way similar to the GM PDC. I had to go this route since the stock 4.0L setup was inadequate for going from three ignition coils and six injectors to eight ignition coils and eight injectors. The power wiring will come in a bit once I get other bits of wiring in place. Also, those terminals with multiple terminated wires are from the WJ's windshield wiper relays which are very handy for this. According to my calculations I finished exactly 50% of the necessary engine harness connections today. There are a lot of tools and supplies that go into making a high quality wiring harness. Shown here is the completed 6-pin Metri-Pack connector for the Accelerator Pedal Position(APP) Sensor, 5-pin data/bus Metri-Pack connector, and the start of splicing in the C104 Grey Jeep 4.0L engine harness connector. If you are wondering if I shortened then spliced the same wires back together the answer is no. Apparently there are a lot of common wire colors shared in the industry for certain functionality.
  11. Alexia

    Honda Osyssey sliding door bearings

    Coworker's Odyssey did that same thing. The door fell off scratching up and denting the body.
  12. In southern states $10,000 for that mileage LJ is a good price. Assuming the rust situation is fine I would buy it. An under 100,000 mile clean LJ can easily sell for $15,000. All of them have a D44 in the rear with disc brakes. I recommend buying one that already has a hard top since they cost $2,000 to $3,000 used, but soft top only LJs on the used market are priced the same as hard top LJs. For comparison I paid $10,000 for my 95,000 mile LJ in 2008 with a book price of $14,000.(Discounted due to needing tires, minor cosmetic damage.) The value of my LJ has appreciated over 11 years. I broke the original hard top on LJ and purchased a replacement for $1,300. If I was stupid enough to sell it I could potentially make a 100% profit on it. I am actually in the market for a second LJ right now to simply buy and keep around as a spare because I enjoy driving mine so much. Speculating on future valuable vehicles is difficult, but I do not wish to have to spend much more on an used one if they sky rocket in price in the future.
  13. In this case I do need the entire PDC. Just the fun bits inside! I might be contacting you later for some custom cables. The stock TJ battery cables work for most of the positive hook ups. Going to see what I can salvage from the Camaro battery harness later.
  14. The same goes for the ZJ. Its PDC terminals should work for late XJ and early TJ as well. I would go cut one out from the local junkyard, but the LKQ people there will either charge me $10 or $100 depending on their mood for the day.
  15. I have been working on the wiring. My goal is not add an additional relay/fuse box under the hood for this swap. I have determined that it is possible to use the three connectors from the 4.0L engine harness and splice them into the L99 engine harness to utilized the stock Power Distribution Center(PDC). There will be a few wires that need to be added for power and relay control. This spreadsheet details the hook ups so far with some additional work that needs to be completed later as I probe circuits. https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1WeNrxo_olLp98F6OxWAWf11TVL2zZoyMebU51qa1nOs/edit?usp=sharing Thinking outside the (fuse) box: To add circuits to the PDC all I really need are the terminals from another Wrangler's PDC, but sellers only sell the whole harness intact for hundreds of dollars. However, the used, abused, and trashed 4.0L WJ Grand Cherokees with worthless resale use the same style PDC. The eBay sellers just cut the harness off. $30 shipped for a bunch of factory fuse and relay terminals with wire leads in durable plastic packaging.
  16. Alexia

    One of our own is down

  17. I had a bunch of fitment issues with the Holley engine brackets so I got rid of them for a set of ICT Billet brackets. For reference the belt I used is a 6PK2500. The grill is missing because I dropped it off at my favorite body shop to get repainted due to a large stone hitting it.
  18. "Why don't my brakes work?" The parking and regular brake pads were entirely covered with differential fluid oil sludge. The brake pads also appeared to be a little melted. Replacing pressed on axle seals and bearings is a pain so I bought 4340 chromoly axle shafts with everything already pressed on. It took me several hours to clean up the mess from the leaking axle shaft seals and get everything reinstalled. I also installed the replacement parking brake cables from Rugged Ridge. They are high quality junk as expected. Of course a bigger 1350 input yoke is needed to help handle the extra power. This is actually the stock/commonly used u-joint size for the Camaro. I also got a dipstick tube from JRE meant for people drag racing their Camaros that works perfectly for this drive train swap. The higher up dipstick markings should help with off road shenanigans.
  19. AEV/Nth Degree transmission mounts and the tab off the Novak mount welded to a bracket meant for shipping Dell servers on pallets. Every motor mount available says that the right side firewall will have to be dented to clear the right cylinder head. Technically I got away with not doing that since it clears due to the Tummy Tucker skid plate, but it was only about 5mm of clearance so I gave it a few taps to get it up to 10mm.
  20. I own a grinder. There was no clearance between the top of the transfer case and the floor pan so the transmission needs to go lower.
  21. Fuel system? Done. I just need to make a hose from the frame rail connector up to the fuel rail. The 4.0L hose is too long and interferes with the exhaust manifold. The front brakes had the typical divot worn out of the caliper knuckle so I fill welded them and ground them square again. I took brake pads off with 30,000 miles that were lop sided and mostly worn on one side. The rotors were still good so I had the local O'Reilly store clean them up. Just some paint for the engine block motor mounts I forgot about for a few months. That is it! The drive train can stay in and I have folded up the engine crane. The suspension arms are Metalcloak's aluminum Duroflex arms. Not a whole lot of clearance between the transmission pan and the AEV Tummy Tucker skid plate. I am going to build the transmission mount as low as possible and then if I have free space after putting the body on I will use spacers to push it up.
  22. Alexia

    One of our own is down

    I am semi-local to him. I will send you a message, Eagle.
  23. I assume I landed this on a rock at some point. I just have to remember to fix it before painting. The pry bar had to come out to remove the control arm. If you can not see the rust your Jeep is hiding it from you. This lovely tray is perfect at catching and holding debris. (I forgot to fix that control arm bracket first.) POR15 with a VHT enamel gloss black top coat. The welded on nuts for the upper shock mounts were air chiselled off a long time ago. I am installing Metalcloak's Duroflex arms and the front upper arms require modifying the axle slightly to install them. The instructions were brief and best summarized as, "Insert circle into round hole, insert rectangle into slot, weld."
  24. If I was not heading on emergency to my parents' place I would be flying out to California right now.