Alexia

Two fuel filler doors. The well done XJ conversions are my goal to beat.

I ended up filing the slots on the lens housing and the XJ sockets fit in nicely now. The only issue is that some wobble since the rubber grommets are worn out. I have a few spare grommets so I double stacked them for a tight fit.

http://charlieobaugh.com/AutoCheckReport.aspx?vin=1JTML65T4HT069118#full-history

Those were so horribly rusty. D: I would have scrapped the thing.

I have identified several direct replacement rear tail light sockets from various sources for the rear tail lights in both the old trailer style bulbs and the newer 3157 clip bulbs. All of them are $30+ for a single socket. O_O $180 to replace all six sockets. My silly idea is to file down the tabs on the spare XJ sockets I have so they fit into the hole and duct them in place. The only difference in these sockets is the tab size and positioning. It is not ideal, but the rear tail light situation for Comanches is dismal. Otherwise does anyone else know a source for these?

http://comancheclub.com/topic/34416-our-87-project-prime/ http://comancheclub.com/user/9253-kateindeed/

I run a serrated flange bolt all the way in tight to scrape the paint off under the bolt and where the ground terminal ring will rest. Then I install the ground wire. This helps to prevent exposed metal that would rust and possibly spread. There is nice shiny metal under there. I really am that picky about little details like that. The other acceptable way for the ground to be against paint is to make sure the flange of the bolt is shiny. The ground terminal ring will ground through the bolt and into the threads in the metal.

Bwa, how did I missed this message?! Very close! Especially after the little bit and pieces I did today. I had a half day off work as a present due to a screw up last week. Installed rivet nuts to use a newer style hood prop. Odd that the holes were always there! Yet another brand new wiring harness I made! This time for the rear lights. Grounded directly to the frame with two 16 gauge wires, one per side, instead of the original one wire for both sides. No voltage drop or dim bulbs. Taped up in my new favorite electrical tape is a power lead for factory trailer tow. All that is needed to add trailer wiring is a factory XJ tow harness or an aftermarket harness then wiring a power lead from the engine bay to the hidden wire. The red wire is for the license plate lights. It is loose for now until I know how and where those will be.

I almost freaked out thinking you opened a door of a stranger's Jeep. Then I read down to see "the owner gave me". :P I want it. Really really want it!

Nearly identical except for some additional spots for placing the hood prop.

The top bolt for the 1997+ XJ striker will bolt through the existing hole on the MJ. Get the striker adjusted with the existing adjustment plate then mark and drill the bottom hole. There is plenty of access room to the inside of the B pillar once the interior panel is removed.

Undercoated the frame with Duplicolor Undercoating - This frame is insanely clean even on the inside and outside. RockinMJ really was entirely honest when he said this MJ is very solid. Ran the fuel pump wires using the XJ wiring boot. I drilled a 1 1/8" hole and filed it open to the 1 3/16" size required. I opted to reuse the factory MJ fuel pump wires as extra light and trailer wires to the rear. Wired straight into the Dakota fuel pump plug that I snagged from the junk yard truck. Painted the hood striker latches and finalized installing the hood.

I have done everything on my 1997 swap to keep it California legal and it still would probably fail somehow. That hot metal smell is usually the catalytic converter heating up the floor pan if it is clogged. Hot exhaust almost became the sixth time lighting the MJ on fire.

This one is fairly simple and most of the color scheme matches up. 1997-2001 Cherokee --> 1997-2004 Dakota Dark Green/White Stripe --> Dark Green/Black Stripe (Fuel Pump Power) - 16 gauge Black --> Black (Fuel Pump Ground) - 16 gauge Dark Blue/Light Green Stripe --> Dark Blue (Fuel Level Sensor Signal/+) - 20 gauge Brown/Yellow Stripe --> Black/Light Blue Stripe (Fuel Level Sensor Ground/-) 20 gauge

Notice how the last five digits are exactly the same as the previous reported mileage. Also, it was recorded on a renewal and not a title transfer. It is likely a data entry error.

$1,600 for a rust bucket and a natural wooden floor. I doubt they would take under $1,000 though based on the story.

Both Dorman and Spectra are good brands in general. The tank straps for the plastic skid plates just have bolts welded on to hold the plastic skid plates on. The regular straps could have the same done or be drilled to except new bolts.

Do you mean the bolt that sticks out of the A-pillar to hold the bottom side of the dash?

Thanks! You should stop selling the Jeeps you build. :P Though they are fun to build.

Typically the hacky things I do never gets posted. :P I will post pictures on it, but not too much for details. I can help you out if need to adapt your tank.

I will leave that duty for the Wrangler. :P The crack is in the center of the windshield where the rear view mirror mounts. Thus I can not get a mirror to stick there for long.

I never do something custom unless I come up with a way to make it easier to repeat. Out in the garage painting the rear frame section before I spray under coating across it. Accidentally getting dizzy on paint fumes. I am looking at a final $255 for a windshield to make this safe to drive and then that is it. I have a bunch of other fun items on the list though. I have a new Novak SK2SC transfer case shifter to install, but the transfer case is in 2WD already so that can wait a bit.

Store bought plastic paints are crap. As well, the plastic used for XJ/MJ parts are typically made out of a type of plastic that reacts badly with the paint causing tackiness. The best way to paint plastic parts is with an adhesion promoter and automotive paint that has been mixed with a flex agent. The other way is to used premixed spray paint and dye solutions such as the ones from SEM. SEM even has tutorials on YouTube on how to get it perfect.

Usually that means it was filled out incorrectly in a transfer and had to be filed with a correction.

The 1997+ brake pedal assembly bolts into the existing location with either brake booster, but the newer brake booster must be installed since the push roads are incompatible.