HOrnbrod

I guess my Homelink mirror died. I can press the two outside buttons and clear the codes, but when I press the remote and the Homelink button together, it won't take the code. Just flashes slowly forever. I even bought new remotes. Will have to try a new Homelink mirror I guess..

I have a D44 and it's a nipple threaded into the left axle tube with a vent hose that goes up and exits in the frame. But it really could be anywhere. It's just a tube that vents to the atmosphere so the axle won't build up pressure and force oil out the axle seals. Make sure it's clear and you can blow through it. If you don't have a vent, install one.

I would have used CAPS .

Make sure your axle vent isn't clogged shut. If an axle can't vent, it will leak.

That thing is nearly 3' (33") longer than my JKU, and 2' longer than my LWB MJ. Would be a tight fit in my undersized garage. Damn, wish I had built it a bit deeper. Hopefully a 2-DR will come along one day...

Mopar part number J3646513

Agree, looks dayem good in this pic. Wonder if it has the trailer tow HD suspension package. Definitely squatting down a bit from the trailer tongue weight.

Sounds like a great idea to me. Anyone ever done disk brakes on an AMC-20?

Probably broke it.

Carrier break on the 44 is 3.92 & up, so UB fine going to 3.73.

Yes, because if you are regearing the D30, R&P ratios of 3.73 and numerically higher would require a new carrier. Or you could use "thick" gears like I did on my D44 to make up the height difference and save some $$. I used the thick gears so I could retain the Trak-Loc carrier I had. Works great. It's all explained pretty well HERE.

If you go from 3.55 to 4.10, both axles cross the carrier break. 3.55 to 3.73, only the D30 crosses. I went from 3.55 to 4.10 using "thick" gears on the D44. On hindsight, I think today I would have liked 3.73 more to get a little better mileage on the interstate.

Good info Dirty. Would still like to know Wahoo what gear ratio are you now, and what gear ratio you are planning on going to...