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'91 Silver Star 2.0


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  • 1 month later...
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Well, I thought I was good with my random stall/no-start issue... but it came back yesterday. Luckily was just moving it around the yard, but after 500+ trouble free miles, here it comes. I wonder if it's a heat soak issue--it was sitting in my driveway for a few hours with the sun beating down on it when I went to go move it. Started up, was reversing down the driveway and just died. Wouldn't start back up again right away, got out and put a few things in the bed, then started up without issue. Weird.

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  • 7 months later...

As of recently, my truck starting leaking oil... badly. After some investigation, I thought it might be the oil filter housing, so replaced those o-rings. It got some-what better, but not completely gone. Outlined it here: 

Also, during that replacement, the no-start issue came back. Really strange, still can't figure it out.

 

Anyways, haven't done much to it since then, but decided to tackle a couple nagging light issues. First, the dash hasn't been put back together completely in some time. Was waiting on a few different things, so I may as well complete them!

 

I realized that the HVAC deck should be illuminated, and it wasn't. Took that all apart, found the bulb--seems to be burnt out. Ordered some LED replacements to swap out.

 

I've added fog lights, and since need to put the switch in place. SEM Color Coat'd (with Landau Black, as I had it on hand) one of the switch covers, and it came out great.

 

I noticed that I don't have a light that illuminates the trim ring around the cigarette lighters--went ahead and ordered that piece from eBay.

 

Had to swap around an LED bulb in the cluster since it wasn't turning on--had it in backwards.

 

The A-pillar on the driver's side wasn't sticking in correctly for some time. The holes for the push pins were covered by the new headliner, so I cut that back and replaced my make-shift pins with some I got from Team Cherokee. Additionally, one of the screw tabs was completely broken, so I decided to use some epoxy and a washer to fix it. Hopefully it'll hold up.

 

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Seemed pretty strong, so I decided to do the B pillar as well, since that one was broken.

 

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Got the interior pieces installed, some of the epoxied washers didn't make it... but they're somehow holding the pieces tight so something worked :dunno:

 

Decided to put in a new door seal on the driver's side while I was there--easy enough!

 

Got the Euramtec lights wired up with the correct terminals in the correct spots per:

 

Waiting on an order of those nice extra wide flange head philips screws from eBay to start replacing the crappier ones. Used those flange head ones for the trim pieces, so I poached from the instrument cluster.

 

Ended up installing Krusty's hitch today, outlined here:
 

 

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  • 1 month later...

Got around to making up a harness for the 7-pin connector I'm installing. Was originally going to splice in some new connectors rather than use the '91 unobtainium ones, but I was able to buy a set (thanks @schardein!).

 

Got that all mapped up and loomed up. The extra 2-pin weather pack is for the 12V+ accessory and the electric brake controller. I do plan on adding a brake controller, since the trailer I would be towing with this is a two-axle with brakes. Definitely wouldn't try it it without brakes, but with brakes should be OK...

 

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Here it is all installed. Drilled it into my crusty bumper for now. Would still like to find a cheap local Jeep Gladiator bumper and see if I can make that work, but here we are.

 

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Didn't take any pictures but was able to run the 12V+ and brake controller wires up between the gas tank and frame rail, and shoved the brake controller wire through the harness rubber plug that's behind the driver's seat. Was super tight, but about to get it shoved in there without too much hassle. Continued to run the black wire to the engine bay, and tucked in it with the vacuum line loom for the CAD.

 

I had taken two terminals out of the '91 PDC that @schardein also got for me, and got them snuck into my PDC. Used the blank Maxi slot as well as one of the ABS ones in the PDC, and shot the wires out of the side. Spliced one in there for the 12V+, and the other one will be for the 12V+ for the brake controller, which I ran another wire across the engine bay and in the rubber grommet that has the hood release cable. Confirmed everything works at the 7-pin plug.

 

Going to order a Curt Venturer and universal harness pigtail to splice into the cab. Surprised by how cheap they are--less than $40 from Amazon. Not bad!

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A trailer brake controller is definitely on my list of things to add to my truck too. With the 4.0 and 4.10s, its got plenty of pulling power, but not as much stopping power as I would like.

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38 minutes ago, 89 MJ said:

A trailer brake controller is definitely on my list of things to add to my truck too. With the 4.0 and 4.10s, its got plenty of pulling power, but not as much stopping power as I would like.

Yeah, I'm still rocking 3.07s, lol. The one trailer my family has is a Big Tex 10PI, so it's about 2500 lbs. Tack on 3500 lbs. for the Eagle that needs to make it's way to me (all back roads) and we're pushing the limits without a brake controller, lol.

 

I've still got a D44 with 3.55s sitting in the garage that needs to make it's way into the MJ, along with a regear from the front.

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On 3/27/2023 at 8:00 AM, acfortier said:

Got around to making up a harness for the 7-pin connector I'm installing. Was originally going to splice in some new connectors rather than use the '91 unobtainium ones, but I was able to buy a set (thanks @schardein!).

Nice work, glad the parts worked out for you!

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  • 3 weeks later...

Got the cargo light installed. Went with the aftermarket LED one over the stock one I have since it was a bit nicer. Used rivnuts to secure it, made a gasket out of 1/16" silicone rubber sheet.

 

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...Yes, I know it's a little crooked. Ugh--I guess that's why I should use a punch to center my drill bit. Oh well, hardly noticeable to probably anyone else.

 

In the cab, got the wiring all set--just grounded the light with a screw into the cab, ran a wire all the way over and down the B pillar towards the front. For the switch, spliced in power from another pink wire connector that was under there but not doing anything (maybe for footwell lights?) using a t-tap, and did the same for the light for the switch bezel, too. Everything works as it should! 

 

When I took the headliner down, the weight of it knocked my rear view mirror off (AGAIN). I can't seem to find a decent rear view mirror adhesive, but I had ordered Versachem 11109 and that seemed to hold a lot better (so far) since the adhesive was thicker than others. I probably mentioned it before, but I had scored a Donnelly mirror from some GMC vehicle awhile back, and got around to wiring it up by splicing into the courtesy lights at the B pillar and running the wires up. Should be a nice little upgrade.

 

Decided to POR-15 the interior roof, and going to throw some Noico sound deadening on there, too. Then I *should* be able to button it up again and not have to worry about taking the headliner down another time, but we know how that goes.

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Put sound deadening on the interior roof, and started to put the interior back together before I realized I probably should replace the passenger's side door seal (since I have it).

 

Took it off, and this is what I found:

 

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Not too surprised, but yeah, ugh. Wire wheeled it down to this:

 

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It's definitely going to need a patch. Also noticed this spot, directly under that one:

 

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Is it even worth covering up the hole in the door seal section in POR-15 until I take her in to get the floor patched?

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  • 3 months later...

Following up on convos from here: 

 

 and here: 

 

I'm hoping I found the root cause of my random stalling issue.

 

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Just look at the difference in the sizes of the pins--the bottom way is the new one and is way tighter. Got it soldered on and did a wiggle test--no stalling. We shall see if it resolves the problem completely, or was just one part of the problem.

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  • 4 weeks later...
On 8/7/2023 at 12:11 PM, acfortier said:

I'm hoping I found the root cause of my random stalling issue.

 

Just look at the difference in the sizes of the pins--the bottom way is the new one and is way tighter. Got it soldered on and did a wiggle test--no stalling. We shall see if it resolves the problem completely, or was just one part of the problem.

 

A loose/old connector for the coil?  Damn.  That makes sense.  Totally random, probably was happening every time the truck hit a bump the wrong way.  Great work.  I hope that was it.

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23 hours ago, kryptronic said:

 

A loose/old connector for the coil?  Damn.  That makes sense.  Totally random, probably was happening every time the truck hit a bump the wrong way.  Great work.  I hope that was it.

Yep! Seems to have been the issue. No random shut offs since.

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  • 2 months later...

Not much for updates. I've had a nagging oil leak for some time, and got around to addressing it. Outlined here:

 

Reset the distributor again, and this time took apart the oil pressure sending unit from the tee, and the tee from the block and re-applied some sealant and put it all back together. I think I'm still getting maybe one or two drops after driving, but it's not as bad as it was. Could very well be the RMS, but it's too cold to want to dig more into it.

 

Had to re-adjust the parking brake at the equalizer bracket--wasn't holding as well as it should have been. Much better now after following the FSM.

 

I'm no welder, so I finally had the chance to bring it to a friend to weld up the big holes. Wire wheeled the rest of the scale, and this is what I'm left with before I start to coat with POR-15. I'm really hoping to get this done before it gets any colder, we have a couple 50 degree days this weekend that I'm hoping will suffice.

 

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Once that's done, I'll put down some sound deadening, jute carpeting, and put in the carpet. I'll then be able to button up the rest of the interior and it'll actually start to feel like a daily driver and not a project vehicle.

 

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1 hour ago, acfortier said:

Had to re-adjust the parking brake at the equalizer bracket--wasn't holding as well as it should have been. Much better now after following the FSM.

Don’t go too crazy with that. It could also be a sign of the drum pads going down if they haven’t been done in a while. 

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4 minutes ago, eaglescout526 said:

Don’t go too crazy with that. It could also be a sign of the drum pads going down if they haven’t been done in a while. 

 

Yeah, didn't tighten it too much--maybe a quarter of an inch/half inch more than what it was? Still plenty of thread left on the rod itself.

 

Now that I think of it, I can't remember if I've ever checked the shoes on this.

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Thanks, it's been rock solid ever since I figured out the intermittent shut off issue... until today. Lol.

 

Was pretty low on gas by the time I was able to get to the gas station, put in about 16.5 gallons I think. Drove it for about 15-20 miles until all of a sudden it wouldn't stay running. I turn the key, it fires up, then will either immediately die, or barely run and sputter out. Seems like a fuel delivery issue, touching the throttle does nothing. Not sure if I dislodged some crap in the tank and it's stuck in the lines/fuel filter, but I'm hoping it didn't damage the pump.

 

Going to take off the fuel filter tomorrow, turn the key on to see if the pump runs and pushes out fuel (and maybe any crap that could be stuck) then replace the fuel filter. Definitely hitting myself in the head for this one, lol. :doh:

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