jpnjake

I certainly learned my lesson I needed to do axle seals and ordered the seals but forgot the bearings and just last minute went to get them but I certainly won’t do that again now

I had gone to orielys and bought their “master pro” bearings they were hot garbage the play ended up being the play between the rollers and the bearing itself I bought 2 new old stock timkens that were made in America and just installed them to fix my issue 0 endplay after the timkens are in Thank you Pizzaman!

Bump this is still racking my brain I just compared it to my chief and it has next to no end play was able to get a real measurement on my current Endplay and it’s 30 thousandths and it’s on both sides, passenger side needs you to pull hard but has the same amount of play

I’m running into this issue while replacing my axle seals and installing new axle bearings, I pressed off my old bearings and now that I have the new ones on with the new seals I have endplay (in and out) about 10 thousandths on the drivers side only I never noticed any endplay before I changed my bearings I’m wondering if I should put a shim behind the race on the drivers side to take up the space when I had everything apart the new and old bearings/seals measured the same just wondering if anyone else has ran into this?

Even In 1995 trucks were giant oh well maybe just the big ones were lol my Comanche behind my 95 Freightliner when the computer on it went out Funny how small the fsj’s actually are my 89 with my 76 j-10

It definitely would be, I’ve been collecting pictures of different interiors at least for a year lol

Definitely a massive couple of cans of worms lol think I have about 4 different style door panels alone in my room, I’m kinda an interior freak about these trucks now, there’s so many colors and fabric styles and different vinal types, we could have about a complete Jeep book of information on only interior types and options

From my experiences with the brochures, the notched bench seats came in anything with a floor console, even the mini mini 4x4 column shift so the seat can still be pulled all the way forward (for dwarves to drive?) the non notched bench seats are pretty rare only being in 2wd automatic column shift trucks from the factory. And I’m pretty sure starting in 1990 all bench seats have headrests. ^my 89 with a un notched bench seat, factory 2wd column shift wing back buckets also come in the xj Wagoneer style also the older xj Wagoneer seats are slightly different like the ones in @eaglescout526 Chunk xj Door cards are also a interesting topic with there being at least 6 different styles off the top of my head just in 84-96 style

Awesome score! those buckets look in really nice shape! Definitely a great upgrade in an mj!

My Dad did this swap last night on the 91' XJ, he had both early, and late lock cylinders. Before (Chrysler key) : . After (GM/AMC Key) : Lock Cylinder he removed: He was surprised the 91' column took the early lock cylinder (WellsA08004)

Finally received mine today, I ended up ordering the ntk on amazon, not off their website since it would come sooner. It ended up being a 4 wire unit. ohm reading cold was right at 5 ohms so that’s good news at least. Going to install then update again on whether or not it works. In the case that it doesn’t, currently planning on returning this one and buying one off their website and just waiting. My hope is the company will have all the new 3 wires and that the amazon seller just had a bunch of 4 wires from the last batch

Hell yeah, great progress so far! Keep up the hard work

Thank you, I’ll have to give this one a shot, gonna buy it straight off their website! I was waiting for someone to report good news of this part as the Bosch one seems like hot garbage Thank you Carter, it is a lot of fun, probably the most fun purchase of the year right behind the trailer! looks like as of rn nick isn’t producing rem units due to a supply chain issue, i definitely want to pursue that option tho Such a shame that parts from 20+ years ago are the only reliable source. Just like how when you buy a new part you have to question if it was better than the one you just replaced (It never is)

Hey guys, a couple weeks ago I was replacing my rear brake line and found my 02 sensor wires just dangling, turns out at some point the wiring on the sensor broke off of the sensor (explaining my sudden drop in fuel mileage and lack of power lately). Then I found all the conflicting information about the 02 sensors themselves, some say none available work(find JY one), some say they swear by the Bosch, and others say the Bosch don’t work at all and to go with the NTK, so just curious if any one else has ran into this problem and what your experiences and solutions have been TYIA Pic for attention

I just did mine from underneath with a swivel head ratchet, and a wrench, just used an xj trunk Mat for something to lay on to keep myself comfortable. Way easier from underneath than up top, and definitely gonna be hard to get to from inside, even with cutting the floor since it’s up on the firewall behind the dash area.

Thanks Carter! That truck was originally gray metallic from the factory, someone painted “ an inch of the thickest yellow rustoleum tractor paint” that my dad has ever seen on it Even 20 years later the yellow paint come through a little bit through the new maroon ^now after I went a little heavy with the pressure washer ^ 20 ish years ago when it was converted from yellow (yes that’s me in the bed)

I’ve been daily driving my Comanche (89 4.0 AW4 2wd) for going on 4.5 years now, she was my first car in high school, and I’ve had nothing but great experiences with it. Knock on wood she’s never left me stranded, I recently took it on a road trip from NH to Virginia with no problem or stops other than for fuel. Basically my best advice for daily driving and working a 35 year old truck is preventative maintenance. I started with a nice radiator, and new water pump, go through the front suspension and at least replace the dry rotted bushings to keep death wobble away. And I’d definitely do a fan clutch. Serpentine Belt, and an advanced CPS help lock in the reliability and fuel economy. I tow with my Comanche regularly, haul in the bed, and every morning drive it to work. So far 4.5 years later, 3 snowy winters and 35k miles later and she still puts in the work everyday Out in Virginia^

Good eye! The screw heads were all stripped by whoever tried to take them off before we got it. I "think" there's another set of 2door sill plates kicking around that came off this one: (way-way-back-burner project, don't ask )

Donor Tunnel tek screwed in place for the moment, so it could be parked around back and other projects could take over the garage for a while

This may become a project thread.... or maybe just something everyone NOT in the rust belt can point and laugh at it's a 1991 Laredo, 4.0L 5spd, back burner "when there's time" project: Replacement trans tunnel from a donor XJ: Tunnel Donor (2000 that was a lot worse than it looked): Took everything worth taking: Heading off to the great Jeep Farm in the Sky

I hope anyone that wanted a 444430 Grip-Lok grabbed it before the price jumped $503.99! ($336 to $839.99) Same seller on Ebay had the same price jump. One Amazon seller has one listed for $658.99 still, but that's about double the $336 price from the last few days.

I'm on a PC right now, and don't know how to flip a pic.

The Grip-Pro was the first time we tried a Power-Trax full case diff, Even the box looks the same, only red lettering instead of yellow. Not sure why, but it was a crazy $139 Amazon deal about 5 years ago. Works great, should have bought all of them lol yeah, this pic will only attach upside down.....

Power Trax is super confusing with the names they use, and most of the carriers look exactly the same from the outside, so that doesn't help either. The Grip-Lok is a full locker, and equivalent to a Detroit, or a Grizzly The Grip-Pro is a gear style LSD, and equivalent to a True-Track. We put a Grip-Pro (LSD) in the Black MJ (with used/take-off, thick Rubicon 4.10's). The Grip-Loks are for a trail Jeep (hopefully soon).

Not to push Powertrax stuff today.... but the No-Slip, that is supposed to fit the D44 Trac-lok cases is also pretty cheap. @ $247. (I'm pretty sure these are the only lunchbox lockers that fit the otherwise crappy Trac-lok cases https://www.amazon.com/Powertrax-9204443020-No-Slip-Traction-System/dp/B00IVQPSOI?ref_=ast_sto_dp )