The be all end all radiator

[ghetdjc320]

22 minutes ago, WahooSteeler said:

 

https://www.evanscoolant.com/

 

Yeah, the problem is limited availability and shipping due to where I live. I would like to give it a try though. Have you tried it?

[WahooSteeler]

Just now, ghetdjc320 said:

Yeah, the problem is limited availability and shipping due to where I live. I would like to give it a try though. Have you tried it?

 

Haven't tried it, almost pulled the trigger after the water wetter seemed to help, but went to open system and haven't had a problem since. 

 

[ghetdjc320]

So, to get get back on topic. What’s the best radiator/fan setup made for XJ/MJs

[AZJeff]

23 hours ago, derf said:

Yeah, I didn't think about your build thread.  I've slept since the last time I read it.

 

However, an engine built up like that is going to generate a lot more heat than stock.  More power = more heat no matter what you do.

 

There's two ways to improve cooling on an engine when everything is working properly.  1.  More surface area, i.e. bigger radiator;  2.  More air flow.

 

These are VERY good points.   I didn't realize the OP's engine was modified to generate more HP than OEM.   The fact is, the OEM cooling system is designed around OEM power output levels.

 

An engine that puts out more power than OEM will need a larger-than-OEM cooling system.

 

Given the fact that the MJ/XJ already barely has space for the OEM cooling system, this could be a challenge.

 

[derf]

2 hours ago, ghetdjc320 said:

So, to get get back on topic. What’s the best radiator/fan setup made for XJ/MJs

Get the thickest radiator you can fit.  More surface area means more cooling.

 

Get a regular (not high flow) water pump.  More time in the radiator means better cooling.

 

Get a good mechanical fan in the stock location.  Mechanical fans move more air and more air means more cooling.

 

Put the factory shroud around the mechanical fan.  It improves air flow by a significant amount.  More air means more cooling.

 

Replace the factory electric fan with the highest CFM fan you can find that fits there and use a good shroud.  More air.... you know the drill.

 

Add vents on the hood or fenders.  Better air flow...

 

Add an oil cooler.  Maybe look at one you can mount under the bed or on the frame rail away from the engine bay (and exhaust).  Using different air to cool it will make it more efficient.

[bval]

If you haven't done it yet, the ZJ fan clutch on the mechanical fan is a worthwhile upgrade. That plus a new shroud made a huge difference on my truck. It'll clear with the CSF 3-row radiator, can't speak to any others. It's cheap enough you can buy one, test fit it, and return if your radiator interferes. NAPA part #272310.

 

Why is it better? The ZJ didn't have an electric fan so got a different fan clutch on the mechanical fan. It spins the fan faster.

[ghetdjc320]

Let me get your feedback on these plugs I just pulled. Cylinders are laid out 1-6 left to right. I feel a May be running a bit on the lean side. I do know my fuel economy is quite good. Uploaded in full resolution so you can zoom in

[MiNi Beast]

4 looks weak. 

[MiNi Beast]

looks like someone thought it was a 4 banger at one time... 

[PIKE]

Have always thought this one looked good.

 

https://www.mishimoto.com/jeep-cherokee-xj-aluminum-radiator-1989-2001.html

 

 

[MancheKid86]

stock rad, mech fan, aux fan, water wetter Flow Kooler Water Pump aftermarket tsat

this combo stopped my overheating, pushing my truck on 40's in 104+ degree weather like it was winter time

[omega_rugal]

On 9/21/2020 at 9:07 AM, derf said:

Have you done anything to clean out the corrosion that's built up over the years?  Load up your cooling system with Evapo Rust and let it sit for 24 hours.  Then flush it really well and refill with 50/50 mix.  You'll be surprised at what comes out and how much better it cools afterwords.

 

This. rust is very bad for the cooling system, not just blocks the flow, it acts as an insulator somehow. i have a 97 Ford taurus with the 3.0 vulcan, which is well known for it´s corrosion issues and surprise surprise my heater core is plugged with rust, i bypassed it and while i was at it, i did a complete flush, you won't believe the amount of rust that came out, after a few flushes the water finally came out clean and reassembled everything. after that i took it out for a test and realized that the system is working waaay better, i removed the condenser like a year ago because it was bad, the radiator is totally exposed to the incoming air, i also wired the fans to a switch under the dashboard so i can turn them on and off at will, with the fans off, it only starts to overheat if i stay idle for 10 mins or so, in city driving the temps raise slowly and in the highway it can go with no fans all day, before the flush, no matter what, after 5 mins i had to use the fans to cool it down and keep them on for the rest of the day, so we agree rust is BAD...?

 

disconnect all hoses and use pressured water to make sure ALL accumulated rust comes out, refill and test.

 

i did the same to the MJ when i changed the waterpump a while back and has not overheated ever since

 

oh and by flush i mean not just drainign the coolant and refilling, use pressurized water to force everything out, also clean the hoses from inside

[ghetdjc320]

1 hour ago, omega_rugal said:

 

This. rust is very bad for the cooling system, not just blocks the flow, it acts as an insulator somehow. i have a 97 Ford taurus with the 3.0 vulcan, which is well known for it´s corrosion issues and surprise surprise my heater core is plugged with rust, i bypassed it and while i was at it, i did a complete flush, you won't believe the amount of rust that came out, after a few flushes the water finally came out clean and reassembled everything. after that i took it out for a test and realized that the system is working waaay better, i removed the condenser like a year ago because it was bad, the radiator is totally exposed to the incoming air, i also wired the fans to a switch under the dashboard so i can turn them on and off at will, with the fans off, it only starts to overheat if i stay idle for 10 mins or so, in city driving the temps raise slowly and in the highway it can go with no fans all day, before the flush, no matter what, after 5 mins i had to use the fans to cool it down and keep them on for the rest of the day, so we agree rust is BAD...?

 

disconnect all hoses and use pressured water to make sure ALL accumulated rust comes out, refill and test.

 

i did the same to the MJ when i changed the waterpump a while back and has not overheated ever since

 

oh and by flush i mean not just drainign the coolant and refilling, use pressurized water to force everything out, also clean the hoses from inside

 

Thanks but if you read the other posts you’ll see this engine has no rust internally (it’s been checked, flushed, checked, flushed x10). It’s not the original engine. 96 block, Bored, camed, aluminum head, roller rockers, hylift Johnson lifters, hypereutectic pistons, cometic head gasket, .038 quench, shaved block, flowkooler water pump, new crank, king main and rod bearings, arp main, rod and head bolts etc etc. My main question is regarding the pic of the plugs above now to know if it looks lean (it does to me but would like some more feedback). I think I’ll have to post the plugs in a separate thread for replies. 

[JMO413]

I would agree with looks lean.

[omega_rugal]

18 hours ago, ghetdjc320 said:

Thanks but if you read the other posts you’ll see this engine has no rust internally (it’s been checked, flushed, checked, flushed x10). It’s not the original engine. 96 block, Bored, camed, aluminum head, roller rockers, hylift Johnson lifters, hypereutectic pistons, cometic head gasket, .038 quench, shaved block, flowkooler water pump, new crank, king main and rod bearings, arp main, rod and head bolts etc etc. My main question is regarding the pic of the plugs above now to know if it looks lean (it does to me but would like some more feedback). I think I’ll have to post the plugs in a separate thread for replies. 

 

yep 2-3-4-5 looks like theyr are running lean, 1-6 look better...

 

since everything is new  and clean... i have no idea, it may be a constellation of causes

[ghetdjc320]

2 hours ago, omega_rugal said:

 

yep 2-3-4-5 looks like theyr are running lean, 1-6 look better...

 

since everything is new  and clean... i have no idea, it may be a constellation of causes

Found the issue for the lean running. I have 19lb injectors not 24. Finally dig up the receipt and these are upgraded stock injectors only. Just ordered up some Ford Motorsports purple injectors which are a 6 hole true 24lb @ 39psi. 

[derf]

1 hour ago, ghetdjc320 said:

Found the issue for the lean running. I have 19lb injectors not 24. Finally dig up the receipt and these are upgraded stock injectors only. Just ordered up some Ford Motorsports purple injectors which are a 6 hole true 24lb @ 39psi. 

That would do it.

[JMO413]

Good to hear you figured it out. 

 

So the question still stands, what is the best radiator.

[MiNi Beast]

2 hours ago, ghetdjc320 said:

Found the issue for the lean running. I have 19lb injectors not 24. Finally dig up the receipt and these are upgraded stock injectors only. Just ordered up some Ford Motorsports purple injectors which are a 6 hole true 24lb @ 39psi. 

ill take the injectors 

[ghetdjc320]

4 hours ago, MiNi Beast said:

ill take the injectors 

You got it. Send me a PM. My new injectors should be installed by Monday/Tuesday

[ghetdjc320]

6 hours ago, JMO413 said:

Good to hear you figured it out. 

 

So the question still stands, what is the best radiator.

It is my belief that the largest core currently available is the Novak radiator. It is 3” thick (dual 1.5” cores) and has no tranny cooler provision. I really like this radiator but can’t seem to get Novak to answer my emails (hard for me to call them during their business hours form here). The old style Griffin radiator seems to be great but isn’t available anymore. Their new one is just a 1.5” core. My current core is 1.5” although the end ranks are a full 2”. Once I get this fueling issue straightened out I will move on to the radiator if needed. Planning on advancing my timing a few degrees also which should help everything a bit. I’ve really been kicking around the idea of getting a Holley Terminator X system and just removing this obd1 system all together. By the time I invest in a good afr gauge and fpr I will be half way in to getting the Holley system. It always surprises me how much is available for the renix Jeeps vs the OBD1 years. Obd2 is nice and there will be an adapter for obd1 vehicles to run an obd2 ecu as plug and play (see pic below), but after buying the ecu, adapter and HP Tuner your in for the same price as the Holley setup. 
 

[BeatCJ]

I think if you look closely at the waterless coolants, they don't make your engine temps lower. They do raise the boiling point. If I remember correctly pure water is the best coolant. It needs to be modified to reduce corrosion, and eliminate freezing and boiling. You might try running 60% water, or 67% water, and see if it makes a difference. I suspect it won't help much.

[ghetdjc320]

2 hours ago, BeatCJ said:

I think if you look closely at the waterless coolants, they don't make your engine temps lower. They do raise the boiling point. If I remember correctly pure water is the best coolant. It needs to be modified to reduce corrosion, and eliminate freezing and boiling. You might try running 60% water, or 67% water, and see if it makes a difference. I suspect it won't help much.

I’ve been running 95% water along with water wetter for corrosion inhibition. Essentially it’s a racing coolant setup. No worries about freezing here ever . Works well but still gets too hot. The new injectors and timing advance should straighten that out. 

[BeatCJ]

I kind of figured you already knew, but still had to bring it up.

[big66440]

On 9/22/2020 at 6:26 AM, ghetdjc320 said:

So, to get get back on topic. What’s the best radiator/fan setup made for XJ/MJs

I have the Mishimoto aluminum radiator and Mishimoto electric fan set up ( I'm using a Dakota Digital PAC-2750 controller) and it was a HUGE improvement over my CSF 3 core  radiator and stock mechanical fan set up, Mishimoto's customer service is very good as well.