PIKE

Brand new genuine SKF not a counterfeit, I purchased this directly from SKF. One small imperfection which can probably be fixed or just used as is. https://www.ebay.com/itm/327214584581

I hope its ok to do this. I have a SKF unit bearing that fits a 1989 Comanche for sale on ebay for $20.00 starting bid plus shipping. It is brand new never used. SKF has had problems with counterfeiters. I know this is the real deal because I purchased it directly from SKF. When I received the hub it had a minor flaw and they sent me a new one. I think it would work perfectly fine and you might even be able to fix it. https://www.ebay.com/itm/327214584581

Have you installed after market shackles ? Many after market places sell the same shackles for XJ's and MJ's. The steel bushing inside the rubber on a XJ shackle is 2.715" long. The steel bushing on an MJ is 2.815" long. I found this out after I bought some shackles from Rubicon Express. I have clunking too.

Another vote for LuK. I have one in my Ford 7.3 Powerstroke F350 and my Comanche 4.0 AX15. The one in my Comanche is the Pro Gold version.

There was also a short round tube that would go with that under the cap originally, I haven't been able to find one. I think it was to prevent coolant from sloshing out the cap since it is vented. Number 9

The expansion bottle from a 2.5 liter works very nicely with the Macs tank. It bolts right in, the mounting holes are already there. https://www.quadratec.com/products/51216_02.htm?gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=19472278524&gbraid=0AAAAAD_wpjimqWgguCgVpB6d83jQ2KQ0l&gclid=CjwKCAjwi4PHBhA-EiwAnjTHuSHNute531deQ-asKqcdWeqKsHb1cH5bsOR2Dl948PO8905E3VziIhoC_M4QAvD_BwE

Nice, thanks for doing that. I can definitely see how the 1238 is beefier. It allows you to use the larger tie rod ends. The DS 1312 which is the tire rod for a V8 ZJ allows you to use the larger tie rod ends also.

Interesting that its almost an inch longer. Would be interested to see the DS1311 side by side with the DS1312. I read that the V8 tie rod is beefier than the 4.0 but by how much? Let us know how it works for you. Tie rod, Drag link, Center link, Connecting link, which is which? My head is spinning, haha

DS1311 is for the 4.0 Grand Cherokee ZJ. You want the DS1312 which is for the V8 Grand Cherokee ZJ and beefier. I have 4.5" lift on my 89 Comanche and the parts I used work just fine. Conversion Part #s. MOOG DS1312 MOOG DS1238 MOOG ES3096L - 2 needed MOOG ES2079S - 2 needed

MOOG DS1238 Drag Link $ 43.99 at Rock Auto

The Drag Link part # he shows in his link is wrong, it should be a Moog DS1238. That is the Part # I used when I did my conversion and everything went together perfect. I agree with all his other part #s. The Ds1238 is for a 91-01 Cherokee. The number he shows is for a Grand Cherokee and does not work well as you found out. Conversion Part #s. MOOG DS1312 MOOG DS1238 MOOG ES3096L - 2 needed MOOG ES2079S - 2 needed

To tell you the truth its been over 2 years since i installed the stabilizer and can't remember what i torqued it to. I found this chart. Hope it helps you out. https://www.fastenermart.com/files/metric_tighten_torques.pdf

i have the Rough Country N3 on my MJ. Very beefy, I like it. Goes good with my Clayton trac bar which is pure beef.

SKF 11800 is the seal I used inside the differential housing.

Maybe your axle was already bent. That would make sense why you hear the clicking noise and see the mark.

That makes no sense, if anything the bearing would help support the axle and prevent bending. I left mine in with no problems, it helps to align the axle into the seal next to the differential since the seal does not have the metal funnel built into it.

Another vote for Redline gear oil. Shortly after i Purchased my new pickup in 1989 I read that regular dino gear oil would eat away at the brass synchros. I choose the Redline 75w90NS. The NS does not have any friction modifiers to help syncros when shifting. The Redline is also safe for use with all synchro materials. The 75w90NS is rated as GL-5 which is what my owners manual specified at the time. I'm not going to say I noticed any difference or improvements, but what I will say is that after 36 years my AX-15 still shifts like it did on day one. https://www.redlineoil.com/75w90-ns-gl-5-gear-oil I also agree it could be your clutch. Cruiser would tell you to pump your clutch peddle rapidly about fifty times, let it rest for twenty minutes then see how it works.

When I had problems with my turn signals it turned out to be the front sockets that the bulbs go into.

My headliner backer board and fabric are both in good shape. The fabric is starting to separate and is sagging on about half of it. Is there any way to spray some adhesive in there and press it back into shape? Sure would be a lot easier than taking every thing apart. I'm in the habit now of pushing it back in place every time i get in. It stays for awhile.

33 inch tires on 4.5 lift. 33-10.5-15 Stock wheels no spacers. Rubicon Express 4.5" front springs.

I would guess U joints. You have 2 of them.

33x9.50r-15 under my long bed. Fits just fine.

If you have replaced the front calipers or rear cylinders make sure you have them oriented correctly. There is a left and right. Please don't ask me how I know this.

My belt would squeak when it was not at the proper tension. https://www.gates.com/gb/en/power-transmission/power-transmission-tools-and-merchandisers/power-transmission-tools.p.7401-000000-000003.v.7401-00072.html

Make sure calipers are oriented correctly with bleeders at the top. There is a left and right. Please don't ask me how I know this.