PIKE

Macs tank and 1987-1993 expansion bottle.

You can use a bottle that was standard on an early model Jeep with a 2.5 liter engine. It will bolt right in next to your air box. The holes for fasteners are already there. https://www.morris4x4center.com/coolant-bottle-radiator-52003213.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI46GOsKm3-AIVVAp9Ch2RfADaEAQYAyABEgLwRvD_BwE

https://www.car-part.com/

LUK also makes an upgraded version called PRO GOLD https://www.ebay.com/itm/283513322635

What are you using for rear springs? I like the way your pickup sits.

Grand Cherokee ZJ - 1993-1998 Grand Cherokee WJ - 1999-2004

If money is no object, https://www.redlineoil.com/racing-atf-type-f

This has been said many times. MAC'S Tank + 2.5 Expansion Bottle = Open System It's that simple Don't feel bad. took me a long time to figure this out.

You can also use this. https://www.redlineoil.com/75w90-ns-gl-5-gear-oil

2750 rpm at 70 mph

I can go 70mph no problem. I will have to confirm the rpms at that speed next time I take it out. I was actually more concerned with first gear not being very useful at the time. I have a 1996 F350 Powerstroke with a 5 speed and never use 1st gear unless towing a trailer. I am very happy with the 4.56 gears and 33" tires. I always use 1st gear and get good speed out of it. I totally agree with Pete M on re gearing, made all the difference for my truck. Also have a Detroit Locker in the rear and a Trutrac in the front, perfect combination for me.

Thank you, Like others have said its all about what you want to do. I mostly drive on the miles of forest service roads in the Gila National Forest. Maybe there is a wash out or arroyo I have to go thru. Do I rub sometimes? Yes. But its not a big deal for me. I put added bump stops front and rear. Gearing makes a huge difference as others have said. 4.56 was a good choice for me. Just got done converting from disconnect to one piece axle.

Front view on stock wheels.

4.5" Rubicon Express Springs in the front. 33- 10.5r 15 BF Goodrich KO 4.56 gears Happy camper

Napa AGM batteries are made by East Penn. I have been having good luck with them. AGM works nice for me being that I travel 4.5 miles on a forest service road to get to my house. Can get very bumpy and washboard. There is no acid spillage. AGM is a lead acid battery, the acid is not liquid.

Another vote for a TrueTrac in the front. I have two Jeeps and a Ford F350 all with TrueTracs in the front. They are seamless on the road but really do the job when you need them. No special maintenance either. Just use gear lube with no limited slip additive for better lock up. As far as the Gov Lock goes if you see one run away as fast as you can. I had a 1977 Chevy pickup with one in the back. What a turd. What no one has touched on yet is that after it engages it is designed to disengage once the tires are both rotating at the same speed. So you get about one second of lock up. Then if one wheel is spinning again it will lock up again then disengage when both tires are spinning. You get this jerky motion then and it will self destruct with any heavy usage. Ask me how I know that haha.

I have had good luck too with Napa batteries made by East Penn. Never had much luck with Optima either, just my experience, sure others have done better. Group 34 is what I use. https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BAT9834?impressionRank=1

When you replace your ball joints I can guarantee it is a job you want to go smoothly and you will not have to do it ever again. I have recently replaced the ball joints on my 97 ZJ and my 89 MJ. I hope I never have to do it again. For that reason I chose Teraflex ball joints. Very expensive but life time guarantee. Very impressed with the quality. To make the job go smooth I purchased what I think is the most high quality tool to do the job. OTC 7249 and the OTC 7894. I went with SKF hubs too as. 75SV1 and gogmorgo mentioned. FYI put the ball joints in the freezer overnight before you press them in. Also replaced my two piece axle with one piece. New 11800 seal and all new steering with V8 ZJ tie rod and newer XJ tie rod and and tie rod ends. I used 1997 ZJ V8 CV axles for my conversion. For less than $50 a side I figured I would try them. They have been working fine in my ZJ. Have pretty much upgraded my 89 MJ front end. FYI-2 Both my ZJ and MJ had a wobble at around 50-55 mph, the ball joints took care of this on both vehicles. My ZJ had serious tire cupping on one tire.

For your transmission. https://www.redlineoil.com/75w90-ns-gl-5-gear-oil No friction modifier.

OK, thanks. What threw me off was the posts about adding the 2.5 expansion bottle. If its a 2.5 wouldn't bottle already be there? Also I thought the 2.5 was an open system from the factory. So why add the Macs tank? I have learned a lot from these forums, so just asking.

This is what mine looks like without the EGR stuff.

Use gear oil that does not have any friction modifier for maximum traction wit your Truetracs. This is what I use. https://www.redlineoil.com/75w90-ns-gl-5-gear-oil This is also a good GL-5 transmission oil. Non corrosive to synchro and slows them easier for shifting because it is not as slippery.

Have a Truetrac in the front of all three of my vehicles. Great traction, no maintenance and seamless on the road.

Once you use the Macs tank with the 2.5 expansion bottle you have an open system. Fill the Macs tank to the top and the expansion bottle between the high and low marks.

Check out this thread.