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Everything posted by PIKE
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Wheel hub and axle u joint recommendation
PIKE replied to Whitaker717's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
Check out dennysdriveshaft.com they will take good care of you. -
Wheel hub and axle u joint recommendation
PIKE replied to Whitaker717's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
You have to be careful with counterfeit bearings out there. I know SKF has a problem with that. I ordered my SKF front hub bearings directly from SKF to avoid any possibility. X2 on the Dana non greaseable joints, I like those too. They have better seals. -
Just a follow up, I got the Blox block off plate and it fit perfect. Thanks Suds. As Suds1485 said the screws they send are not the same threads. I just added a grade 8 washer with the stock bolts that were there. Socket head cap screws with the correct thread pitch would work good too. I have a perfectly good EGR valve sitting on my work bench if anyone wants it.
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Thank you for the follow up, I will be ordering one too.
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Is there any follow up on this? https://bloxracing.com/products/egr-block-off-plate-honda-overstock Reasonable price but would like to know if it fits before I order one.
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Thanks for the detailed explanation. I was getting the Seals-it confused with the outer axle seals I have seen. I can see now how it would work very well. If I ever have to go back into my axle to repair the SKF 11800 I will try the Seals-it.
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Thanks. I can't see it working very well unless installed where a seal would be on the smooth machined surface that is made for a seal to ride on. The axle shafts I have seen are smaller diameter plus very rough. I would not want to rely on a seal that is on a roughly machined surface. Why do you say the traditional seal is a pain to get to if this one installs in the same place? I did the SKF 11800 seal and feel that it is the same set up as the factory has for any solid front axle. If you have good luck that's great. I want to have a seal riding on a surface that's machined for a seal. Just me, Thanks
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Does the Seals-it economy axle tube seal install right up next to the differential bearing in the location of where the seal is in a one piece axle d30 ? I installed the SKF 11800. Tricky just as you stated but working fine for me. The seals-it looks like a good solution.
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Solid axle conversion dana 30 help!
PIKE replied to Warthog's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
The one I used was bought from amazon too. Must be a hundred choices. I do remember it being a pain to get the seals in. I used a socket that fit the seal and a hammer too. If someone has a sure fire easy way to replace them please post. -
Solid axle conversion dana 30 help!
PIKE replied to Warthog's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
I switched to a one piece passenger side axle a year ago. This is the seal I used. SKF 11800 You will need to remove the differential to install it. Its a pain, the hardest part of the whole deal. Some people press two seals in there. This is the drivers side seal, might as well replace that while your in there. SKF Seal 11899 I used 1997 Grand Cherokee ZJ CV axles when I did mine. You can get them for around $50 a side. So far so good. Like Zomeizter said there is a tool to press them in. https://bullboostperformance.com/collections/auto-part-tools/products/inner-axle-side-seal-installation-tool-for-dana-30-44-60-axles-front-differentials -
The 2.5 expansion bottle is all you should need then. I use the word expansion because they way they work. You will notice the connection is on the bottom. When your radiator fluid gets hot it goes into to the bottle at the bottom. Then when the engine cools down it gets sucked back into the radiator. It is not an over flow tank.
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Adding a Macs tank and a 2.5 expansion bottle will convert you to an open system. https://macsradiatorshop.com/product/macs-1987-1990-jeep-cherokee-aluminum-coolant-tank/
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OK, that makes sense. I don't have to worry about that here where I live in NM. I just found out that next year my MJ will qualify for antique plates since it will be 35 years old. Maybe your friend can make two different versions. My advise would be to not mention anything in the way of federal emission bypassing. Opps, I probably raised a red flag some where in the government. Any way I am interested in removing my valve and having a block off Plate. Thanks for doing this
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Why would you want to keep the EGR valve? I'm thinking pull the valve then install new gasket gasket and plate.
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Sign me up for one block off PLATE.
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I'm am interested in a plate too. Both of those links if you look closely indicate that there plates are no longer available. I have seen some plates advertised as fuel pump block off plates. Probably to get around the EPA. I have no idea if they fit. https://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/fuel-pump-block-off-plates/fuel-pump-block-off-plate-material/steel
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I have 1997 Grand Cherokee with a 5.2. There is an upgrade that uses a Jeep Liberty fan which is plastic. I actually did the upgrade and am pleased. I have no idea if such a mod exists for our trucks. I did try the ZJ fan clutch and it was very loud. Since then I have a CSF 3 row radiator. I don't think I could use the ZJ clutch if I wanted to now. If I ever need a new radiator I will probably get the Mishimoto.
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Thoughts on upgrading to this auxiliary fan...
PIKE replied to robfg67's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
I just checked out my Jeep. It actually has a 10 blade fan. Part# 52079444AB -
Thoughts on upgrading to this auxiliary fan...
PIKE replied to robfg67's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
The fan in your pic has 8 blades. I would suggest getting one with 9 blades. I have a 9 blade on my 89 and is much better than the OEM one for my year. -
My temperature and oil pressure gauges reed too high!
PIKE replied to Glenn Bint's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
Yes, by using an OEM Mopar sending unit. Had the big fat aftermarket one and had the same results you are. This is for oil pressure, not sure about temp. -
I used 1997 ZJ CV shafts when I converted mine. I sealed the unit bearing to the shaft with some Loctite 515
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Thank you everyone. Going to order one today.
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Will it snap in with no hole drilling? Mine that broke was fastened into two holes. White brittle plastic. Surprised it lasted so long actually.
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I think this should be an easy one but wanted to run it past everyone. My 1989 clip broke after 33 years. What do you recommend? Exact replacement or newer? Will the later clips fit my truck? Thanks
